The Heathman Restaurant and Bar in downtown Portland has always been one of the best places in the Northwest to raise a glass of bubbly thanks to its vast Champagne and sparkling-wine cellar. Now, sommelier Jeff Groh has reached deep into that cellar to create a very special Champagne flight, along with several other aptly named Flights of Fancy, just in time for holiday imbibing. The fancy flights include:

• Celebrated Champagnes: Henriot Blanc Souverain NV, Perrier Jouet Fleur de Champagne 1996, and Dom Perignon 2000. $32
• Spirit of Espana: Malaga, from the south of Spain, produces one of the world’s great forgotten sweet wines. Three pours of Jorge Ordonez’s Malagas – Old Vines, Seleccion Especial, and Victoria. $17.50
• Oporto Perspective: This flight features three decades of Port: the 1966 Colheita from Porto Rocha, the 1985 Vintage port from Warre’s, and the Taylor Fladgate 10 year tawny. $29.25
• Mad about Madeira: This flight celebrates the history of Madeira with Cossart-Gordon 10 year Bual, Rare Wine Company Boston Bual Special Reserve, and Barbeito Malvasia 1954. $17.75
• A Fine and Noble Rot: Three expressions of Botrytis Cinerea a.k.a. Noble Rot: 2001 Disnoko Tokaji Aszu 4 Puttonyos, 1997 Chateau Rieussec Sauternes and 1999 Chateau Loupiac Gaudiet. $16.25