Sometimes I have to pinch myself to realize I’ve been writing about Northwest food and wine for close to 20 years now. I’ve watched the publishing industry move from a plethora of bricks-and-mortar bookstores to gigantic online presences; bluelines shift to four-color galleys; and 900-page manuscripts sent to editors in cardboard boxes via the United States post office morph into totally online submissions.

Here’s an excellent article on the “good-old” days of publishing sent along by my literary agent, Lisa Ekus of The Lisa Ekus Group. It brought back many fond memories and reminded me how much has changed in close to two decades!

We are just back after enjoying six days in Philadelphia, my hometown! We spent the bulk of our time at Les Dames d’Escoffier annual conference and tacked on a day for sightseeing in downtown Philly, then a day to drive around my old neighborhood to reminisce and see how things have changed in the last 13 years (our last visit was in 1996 for the International Association of Culinary Professional annual conference).

Here’s a true highlight (among many) from Monday’s trip, when we rented a car and headed to suburban Philadelphia. Spencer wanted a “real” Philadelphia lunch, so I offered up a cheesesteak (actually a “chicken steak” since I don’t eat red meat) with fried onions and some sort of white cheese similar in texture to Velveeta but tasting more like mayonnaise.

And here I am enjoying every last bite. . .paired with a Diet Coke.

We experienced this at Village Lunch in downtown Gladwyne (the gentle town where I grew up) on what’s referred to as the Main Line. Village Lunch is a modest place that’s won lots of awards for “Best Main Line Lunch” from Philadelphia magazine and other publications. It’s run by a scrappy, sweet woman who knows all her regulars on a first-name basis, and calls everyone, including newcomers such as ourselves, “Honey.”

For dessert? What better than a packet of Butterscotch Krimpets, the traditional snack cake manufactured by the TastyKake company. Sorry for the price tag, but at least it gives you a sense of the value of this tasty, not to mention thrifty treat.

I’ve been thrilled with the recent redesign of my Website to include a wider, more modern-looking layout; simplified graphic elements and content; new photos; an enhanced Puget Sound Cam; a totally new photo album; and an integrated Content Management System throughout the entire site.

And although I don’t always understand the techie lingo, here’s a lovely explanation by my ever-creative Web site designer, Chris Prouty, on exactly what he did to update my site. Thanks again, Chris and crew at Studio 99 Creative!

Last month, one of our favorite restaurants started opening for Sunday brunch, Sunday sips, and a Sunday urban supper. TASTE Restaurant at the Seattle Art Museum is now open Wednesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sundays 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. It will now be closed on both Mondays and Tuesdays to coincide with the hours of the Seattle Art Museum.

As always, TASTE’s sustainability mission is to use the best local, seasonal ingredients in soul-satisfying and affordable food.

A big shout out to Matt’s in the Market, which will be cooking up a storm at the venerable James Beard House in New York City this evening.

We were lucky enough to preview the dinner this summer, where the whole fish drew rave reviews and the Gummy Fish Soup was even more fun than it sounds.

Break a leg Chet and Dan!

Here’s the final menu.

Hors d’Oeuvre

Salmon Roe, Crème Fraîche, and Chives on Brioche Toasts

Boqueróne-Stuffed Gordal Olives

House-Cured Lox with Pickled Lemon Cucumbers and Cream Cheese Espuma

Argyle Extended Tirage Brut 1998

Syncline Rosé 2008

Dinner

Shirasu Two Ways: Ceviche and Fried
À Maurice Chardonnay 2006

Octopus with Watercress Salsa Verde, Papas Bravas, and Pimentón
Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva Bianca 1989

Aji with Saffron Calasparra Rice, Grilled Lemon, and Pickled Fennel Salad
À Maurice Viognier 2007

Pacific Snapper and Manila Clams with Shell Stock, House-Grown Purple Tomatillos and Heirloom Tomatoes, Housemade Chorizo, and Herbs
Syncline Pinot Noir 2007

Chilled Washington Strawberry Soup with Gummy Fish and Sour Cream Ice Cream
Syncline Late Harvest Viognier 2007

Duck Breasts with Lemon-Roasted Olives

Varietal: Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, Semillon

Serves 4

Slow roasting food on wooden planks made of cedar, alder, or maple gives fish, meat, poultry, and vegetables a distinctive smoky succulence and appealing fresh flavor. Much like the oak barrels in which wine is aged, planks can impart different flavors to food. Western alder is pale yellow to reddish-brown in color with a fine, close grain. Because of its rich, pure smoke flavor (with a light vanilla compliment), western alder is many people’s preferred wood for smoking, as well as the wood traditionally used for smoking food in the Northwest. A wide range of wines works with the duck recipe that follows, thanks to its smoky and salty flavors and rich textures. Try Semillon, Riesling, or Chardonnay among white varietals; Merlot among red wines.

Four 4-ounce boneless, skinless duck breasts

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon lemon pepper

1/3 cup olive oil

20 kalamata or green olives with pits, or a combination

1. At least 15 minutes before cooking, arrange the oven rack in the upper or middle position. Place the plank on the rack, then preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Sprinkle the duck breasts with salt and pepper. Leaving the heated plank on the oven rack, pull out both the plank and rack and arrange the seasoned breasts on the heated plank without crowding. (This eliminates having to move a hot plank around the kitchen.) Roast for 20 minutes.

3. While the duck is cooking, prepare the dressing by mixing together the lemon juice, garlic, lemon zest, and lemon pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the olive oil a few drops at a time, incorporating well after each addition, until the sauce is thick and smooth (emulsified).

4. Turn the duck breasts over and surround with the olives; drizzle half the dressing over the duck. Roast for 20 minutes, or until the duck is no longer pink when cut into and the juices run clear (for medium).

5. To serve, divide the duck breasts and olives among 4 dinner plates and drizzle with the remaining dressing.

Cook’s Hint: Before using a wood plank for the first time, it is necessary to “season” it-after multiple seasonings, the plank will turn a rich brown color and will no longer need to be seasoned before each use. To season the plank, pour 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil (preferred) or vegetable oil into a small bowl. Using a paper towel or soft, clean cloth dipped in the oil, lightly coat the top surface of the plank with the oil. Do not oil the underside of the plank. Always preheat the plank for 15 minutes, following recipe directions, before placing food on the plank to roast. Also, when your plank is new, and as it develops cracks and warps over time, tighten the steel tightening rods that are inserted along the ends of the plank by using the adjustment tool (supplied with most planks) or a 7/16-inch socket wrench. When planking, do not raise the oven heat about 400°F. Clean the plank with a soft brush, warm water, and mild soap or detergent, never in the dishwasher. And never use a plank designed for use in the oven on a barbecue or grill!

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.