Incredible Québec City

November 25, 2011

We arrived in Québec City right on time at 8 a.m. and were excited to have an entire day to spend there before returning to the Eurodam for one last dinner prior to disembarkation the next day.

We had scheduled a shore excursion that included a 1 1/2-hour walking tour of the Old Town and a tasting of Québec wines at an atmospheric pub during the afternoon.

So we were on our own all morning, and after several hours of window shopping, we decided to eat lunch al fresco at a famous Old Town restaurant–Le Lapin Sauté–where the patio dining area overlooked a pumpkin-filled plaza.

Here’s the homey interior of Le Lapin Sauté, clearly being enjoyed by locals and tourists alike.

Our Planked Salmon Salads were among the best dishes on the entire trip!  The salmon had a light maple glaze and the greens were very fresh and clean. I’m not usually much of a fennel fan, but the layer of pickled fennel was surprisingly refreshing and formed a fitting contrast to the lovely fatty salmon.

I had a glass of Québec Vidal, a light white varietal that smells and tastes slightly of apples. As you might imagine (since it is so cold with such a short growing season in this new wine-growing region) it was a bit thin with there wasn’t much of a finish.

Québec winemakers might do better to stick to their famous ice wine and hard cider. There were more than half a dozen hard ciders on the menu!

Blushing Blueberries and Lotsa “Lobsta” in Bar Harbor, Maine

November 15, 2011

One of my favorite things to do when we are traveling far and wide is to sample the local specialty foods and drink.

And during the third port call of our Fall Foliage cruise this fall, we did just that in the northern Maine town of Bar Harbor.

The weather was gray and damp/cold, just the way we like it. I don’t think I have ever seen so many moose- and blueberry-themed items in my life at all the little souvenir shops scattered throughout the town.

The fact that four other big cruise ships were in port the same day as us didn’t help. We felt overrun by fellow cruisers!

Our first encounter with local cuisine was of the beverage variety. We enjoyed sipping and sharing a bottle of Old Soaker Bar Harbor Blueberry Soda.

The soda wasn’t too sweet and tasted of natural, not synthetic fruit. Spencer said it reminded him of the Grapette sodas he enjoyed as a child.

We bought our bottle of pop at the oldest continuously operating grocery store in Bar Harbor.

With 110 years under its belt, J. H. Butterfield Co., purveyor of fancy food, wine, and beer, was located at 152 Main Street.

In addition to blueberry soda, the venerable store featured all sorts of ale, wine, turnovers, muffins, maple products, and local and imported cheeses. We enjoyed sampling the big wedge of Grafton Village Cheese Extra-Sharp Cheddar Cheese and even back to the boat with a small wedge for late-night nibbling.

Located on the ferry dock in Bar Harbor, Grumpy’s Bakery’s window tempted with other local specialties–freshly baked blueberry pie and muffins and apple cider.

But after a couple hours of sightseeing and shopping, we wanted something more substantial, so headed over to the wildly popular (lines out the door) Stewman’s Lobster Pound at 123 Eden Street and 35 West Streeet.

There I discovered that a lobster pound is “a place where live lobsters are cooked outdoors in wood-fired lobster pots. The centerpiece of any shore dinner, a freshly steamed lobster is beyond perfection accompanied by clams, mussels, corn on the cob, and a baked potato.”

And the restaurant is justly proud since President Obama ate there last summer.

We’d been eating a lot (this, after all, was a cruise!), so I opted instead for an authentic Lobster Roll–lobster salad on a toasted brioche-style bun with cole slaw and a pickle.

Frankly, I found this New England delicacy kind of underwhelming. I did much better the day before in Gloucester, Massachusetts, with with my steamed “lobsta.”

But Spencer gave me bites of his Fish ‘n Chips platter so I didn’t starve. And we felt very sanctimonious when we passed up a slice of good-looking blueberry pie à la mode for dessert.

Reveling in Revel

October 24, 2011

Here’s another repost of one of my favorite blogs from the last couple of years. I love the Hipstamatic app and Rachel and Sief’s food, so this is a match made in heaven.

Here’s how I use the Hipstamatic app in food photography. . .

We were out in the car and so finally had the opportunity to try Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi’s new place in Fremont, Revel, a few Sundays ago.

It was around 7 p.m. and the place wasn’t yet packed (around 8 p.m., the tasting bar was packed and the place was hoppin’) so, even without a reservation, we were lucky enough to snag a table for two.

With a vivid painting of Michael Jackson peering down from above, we quickly ordered a glass of  nonvintage Vinho Verde, a delightful Portuguese Rosé with more than a touch of frizzante (me) and a microbrew (SJ) as those two offerings seemed like the perfect pairing for the resto’s upscale street food.

Now you know I love to shoot with my iPhone4, using both the phone’s default camera and the cool Hipstamatic app, which mimics the old plastic cameras from the 1960s, and ’70s.

So above is the regular shot of the yummy condiments that came with out first dish, the amazing Shrimp, Edamame, and Mint Pancake.

And here’s the Hipstamatic–much more dramatic–even the bamboo tabletop is an important element in the photo’s composition.

Here’s the yummy cake normally. . .

And through the eye of one of the Hipstamatic lenses, the Kadot.

The Albacore Tuna, Fennel Kimchi, and Escarole Rice Bowl shot with the iPhone4 camera. . .

And with the Hipstamatic. Note how this app jumps around the field of vision, so that even my knee and the menu come into view.

Spencer’s Short-Rib, Shallot, and Scallion Dumplings with a normal lens. . .

And Hipstamatic style.

For dessert? Revel’s yummy Ginger Jujube Cake with Cardamom Buttercream and Salt+Pepper Caramel regular. . .

And looking slightly sinister (like a gaping smile) using the Hipstamatic.

Happy to report the food was as much fun to eat as it was to photograph. Price points are amazingly low for the quality and quantity of the food. Our total bill with two glasses of wine, two beers, the above-mentioned dishes, plus tip was $88.

Leftovers made welcome additions to a once-in-a-lifetime seafood stew the next day.

The Cascina Spinasse Experience

October 18, 2011

While we’re taking a little break, this is a reprint of one of our favorite blog posts from prior years of Northwest Notes. Enjoy!

Tajarin burro e salvia (Fine, hand-cut egg pasta with butter and sage)

We’re probably some of the last people in Seattle who hadn’t, until recently, hoisted ourselves up to Capitol Hill to try the simple and incredible goodness that is Cascina Spinasse.

The place has already garnered rather staggering acclaim for its entire menu, but especially the handmade pasta. The Tajarin–very finely cut egg noodles with either meat ragù or butter and sage–is easily one of the best things we’ve ever put into our mouths. One super-savvy foodie and wine-expert friend of ours who just happened to be celebrating a special anniversary with her hubby at the next table when we showed up described it as “the best Tajarin I’ve ever had outside of Italy.”

In addition to chef/owner Jason Stratton’s boatload of honors, he won one of Food & Wine magazine’s coveted Best New Chef awards for 2010. Only 10 young chefs were so honored and he was the only one from Seattle.

Ravioli di Melanzane (Eggplant Ravioli)

That same amazing evening, in addition to enjoying every bite of antipasti such as Marinated Zucchini with Mint and Apricot; an unforgettable Beet Salad with Crushed Egg, Breadcrumbs, and Spicy Greens; and Fried Duck Egg with Sweet Peppers and Peaches, we had to try the Eggplant Ravioli, paper-thin pasta draping an almost meaty-tasting eggplant filling. If memory serves, it simply dusted with nutmeg and Parmesan. Simple perfection.

And here’s the gorgeous Braised Duck Caramelle in Brodo–duck confit artfully encased in paper-thin pasta sheets and wrapped like little packages!

Stracotto di Maiale con Fagioli Borlotti (Braised Pork Shoulder with Fresh Borlotti Beans)

My meat-lovin’ guy enjoyed his Braised Pork Shoulder with Fresh Borlotti Beans. I tasted the beans and can attest they were rich, good, and perfectly cooked to creamy but still a bit toothsome.

The carefully selected and reasonably priced wine list is entirely Italian except for Cavatappi Non-Vintage Barbera from Washington state ($40) and Cavatappi’s lovely 2004 Nebbiolo ($48), a consistently delicious wine that pairs so well with soulful Italian food.

As the four forks at our table fought for every last bite of the Mousse di Formaggio di Capra–Sweet Goat Cheese Mousse with Fresh Peaches and Caramelized Puff Pastry–I vowed not to eat again for the foreseeable future, or at least until we could dine again at Cascina Spinasse.

Much to Like at Luc

August 26, 2011

We had a memorable dinner on a recent Sunday evening at Luc, the casual bistro sibling to Chef in the Hat Thierry Rautureau’s long-running white-tablecloth restaurant, Rover’s. The two sit in the very same block in Madison Valley, just outside of downtown Seattle.

Here’s the gorgeous plate of Copper River Salmon Gravlax Salad, an appetizer that was so substantial I enjoyed it as my main course.

Next to it sits a very serviceable Bibb Lettuce Salad with Walnuts and a light, tasty vinaigrette.

Spencer’s Whole Trout Amandine was one of the best we’ve had about town–a thick, meaty fillet with tons of butter, almonds, lemon, and parsley. The roasted potatoes were butter-bathed and yummy as well.

A couple of glasses of Rosé (both sparkling and still) for me and a Pinot Noir for Spencer and we could easily understand why Luc has become such a popular destination for both neighborhood folk and visitors like us alike.

Cafe Lago Announces Summer Cooking Class Schedule

July 22, 2011

A couple of weekends ago, during Seattle’s all-too-brief week or two of summer, we wanted to try a restaurant we hadn’t experienced in a long time, so drove over to a long-time favorite: the Montlake-neighborhood Italian restaurant, Cafe Lago.

Here’s the gorgeous, handmade Beet Pasta I enjoyed as my main. It was as light and lovely as the sunshine outside.

But the star of the show that evening was Cafe Lago’s Roasted Half Chicken–truly divine–with a very crispy and spicy skin (thanks to roasting in a charcoal Josper oven), tender meat and loads of flavor. Also a VERY generous portion. When we go back, I’ll urge Spencer to share with me (probably NOT gonna happen!) or simply order my own and take half of it home for later enjoyment.

Good news is, that Cafe Lago is currently offering a series of classes on various aspects of Italian food and culture.

Even better news is that each class (for up to 20 people) is free with dinner!

Upcoming Wednesday-evening lesson topics include, Why Seattle’s Best Gelato Comes from Ballard, Opera and Drink, and Italian Bombshells.

Class participants are asked to arrive at 6:30 p.m, pick a spot, and get to know their neighbors over complementary Prosecco and antipasti. Dinner orders are then taken and the class begins at 7 p.m. Dinner is served during the class and the nights’ lessons wrap up around 8:00.

Those interested in attending are encouraged to make reservations, although walk-ins are accommodated as space is available. To make a reservation, call 206-329-8005.

Here’s the schedule of upcoming classes:

· Wednesday, July 27, 7 p.m. – Why is Ballard a Hotbed for Gelato? w/ Marco D’Ambrosio, owner of D’Ambrosio Gelato in Ballard

If gelato is the royalty among ice creams, then D’Ambrosio Gelato in Ballard is the King. But what makes this creamy treat so special? It could be the cute little plastic shovels, but we’re sure there’s more to it than that. Fresh off the plane from his most recent trip to Italy, Marco will teach us how to make fantastic gelato, how it differs from ice cream, and some delectable gelato cocktails.

· Wednesday, August 3, 7 p.m. – TBD

· Wednesday, August 17, 7 p.m. – Romance, Scandal & Drinking at La Scala

When it comes to Italian opera, passion, revelry and mischief usually take center stage. And more often than not, a plentiful supply of tasty beverages moves the plot along—from the insatiable thirst of Sir John Falstaff, to the ode to drinking sung in La Traviata, to the mere illusion of inebriation in The Barber of Seville.

· Wednesday, August 31, 7 p.m. – Italian Mamas and their Power w/ Cecilia Strettoi, Associate Professor of Italian at the University of Washington

According to an Italian proverb, behind every great man is an even greater woman. A rare combination of strength, beauty, and nurture, Italian women range from the matriarch to the bomb shell; they are the multi-faceted jewels of Italian culture. Cecilia will entertain and educate diners on the nuances of true Italian women.

In Search of Seattle’s Best Salmon Burger

July 11, 2011

Every now and again I get a craving for a particular food. Sometimes it’s Oysters on the Half Shell (which I attribute to low iron and magnesium counts). Other times it’s a good Salmon Caesar Salad. Sometimes (hate to admit it), it’s Southern Fried Chicken.

A few weeks ago, craving the city’s best Salmon Burger, I started my quest.

We began our search at the venerable Virginia Inn in the Pike Place Market, which has always been known for their crab cakes. The Inn’s burger,  pictured above, is made of ground salmon, basil-pesto aïoli, and a blanket of Swiss cheese atop. A bit gummy, okay flavor, but nothing to write home about.

We found the next contender at Chinook’s in Fishermen’s Terminal, a restaurant that has been featured previously in our Dish of the Day. This was an actual sockeye salmon fillet, simply grilled, on a plain bun with the fixings shown above. Pretty lackluster and ho-hum, sadly.

Finally, I found my favorite Salmon Burger at Ray’s Boathouse, a place we’ve written about in this blog and in “Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining.”

We enjoyed our salmon upstairs in the casual Ray’s Cafe upstairs. This was a well-seasoned, flavorful, perfectly grilled specimen on a good bun.

The description from the menu reads, “Fresh salmon ground and seasoned at Ray’s, spinach leaves, and tarragon-shallot mayonnaise.” The lovely side salad that I asked for instead of fries enhanced the flavor of the sandwich.

With picture-postcard views of Shilshole Bay outside our window-side seats and a couple of glasses of freshly brewed iced tea, we savored the joys of living in the Pacific Northwest as I enjoyed Seattle’s best Salmon Burger.

The Mighty Georgian

June 28, 2011

With just about every chef and restaurateur in Seattle opening second “small-bite/casual” restaurants and/or offering up killer deals for cheap eats during daily happy hours, sometimes I wonder if fine-dining is dead in our fair city.

So a couple of weeks ago, I made a Saturday-night-at-eight-p.m. reservation at The Georgian, the stunning main dining room in the venerable Fairmont Olympic Hotel to find out.

As we settled in with a glass of bubbly (me) and a gin martini (Spencer) and perused the menu, we were (frankly) amazed at the reasonable price points for such a glamorous setting, with soaring ceilings, a live-music duo of pan flute and upright bass, extensive wine list, etc.

We could have ordered à la carte or opted for the three-course prix-fixe dinner ($69 per person with wine pairings; $49 without), but decided to go all out.

We chose the five-course dinner (including a dessert soufflé!), plus wine pairings, for $99 per person ($69 sans vino).

Here’s the gorgeous bread-and-butter set-up–with four flavors of butter and spiky strips of crunchy lavash cracker–that set the tone for a tone-y meal to come.

After a bit of a wait, the lovely first course came out–Tempura Morel Mushrooms with Truffle Camembert and Morel Shooters (light and lovely mushroom juice in test-tube-like shooters!).

Toothsome and gooey-good, the tempura morels paired perfectly with Domaine Schönheitz 2008 Pinot Gris from Alsace.

Gotta love that sterling-silver skewer and swipe of mushroom dust that makes this plate presentation so pretty.

The second course was another visual knock-out and tasted just as good. Deadliest Catch included razor-thin shavings of the sweetest Alaskan King Crab along with Dungeness Crab Fritters, artistically topped with Arugula Salad. It also went well with the Alsatian Pinot Gris.

Inspired!

I adore beets in just about any form, so was super-pleased with the third course, Roasted Baby-Beet Salad with Candied Pecans (like the best fruit-and-nut bar I’ve ever tasted, probably due to lots of added butter), Goat Cheese, and Walnut Vinaigrette.

The goat cheese is the white blob on the right-hand side and was done molecular gastronomy-style–it was light and fluffy in texture and simply the essence of chèvre.

Unlike me, hubby hates beets, so our server graciously substituted the Olympic Caesar Salad from the three-course prix-fixe dinner and didn’t even charge anything extra.

Both salads were paired with Poet’s Leap Winery 2008 Riesling, one of our all-time fave off-dry Rieslings, and another thoughtful pairing from The Georgian’s long-time (seven years) sommelier–Joseph Linder.

After so much good food, we could hardly believe that entrées were yet to come!

Here’s my gorgeous Smoked Alaskan Wild King Salmon. It was served with Shaved Granny-Smith Apples, Locally Foraged Morel Mushrooms, Yukon-Gold Potato Balls (fun to eat!), and a rather sweetish-sauve containing Olympic Rooftop Honey.

Rex Hill 2008 Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley was a truly wonderful wine for this perfect pairing.

We both gasped in wonder when we saw the artistic shapes, dots, and lattice-work on Spencer’s gorgeously plated Roasted Rack of Lamb with Tomato Crust, Kalamata Olives, Sweet-Pea Quinoa, and Grilled Spring Onion.

The lamb was flavorful without being too gamey; the pea quinoa is something I’d like to make at home; and the lattice work grating is something I’ll gladly leave to Georgian Executive Chef Gavin Stephenson to prepare.

Spencer was more than happy with his entrée’s wine pairing: Château de Clairvoy 2005 Côtes de Bourg from Bordeaux.

Sad to say, but because they are labor-intensive and temperamental to cook, few restaurants bother with making soufflés any more. Lucky for us, The Georgian still turns out a stellar daily-changing version.

Ours was called the “Black and White,” served with Crème Anglaise and a chocolate-covered strawberry, but they also offered up Chocolate Mint. Hard to go wrong with either one!

Although there were occasional service gaffes (a long delay between aperitifs/cocktails and the first course, being seated at a table facing away from the musical duo, the hostess setting up our table after we had been seated), we left thinking that, at least when it comes to its food-and-wine offerings, The Georgian still offers up very fine dining in Seattle.

A Pinnacle Experience at The Oyster Bar

June 21, 2011

Every now and then, a meal’s setting and the meal itself sync so perfectly that they form an unforgettable dining experience.

That happened to us recently at The Oyster Bar on the Chuckanut Drive, about a two hours drive from downtown Seattle.

With views like the one above, it’s hard not to be inspired. . .

But when dishes such as a lovely this Belgian Endive/Gorgonzola Salad begin to arrive. . .

Along with Nettle Wild Nettle and Artichoke Soup, made with a base of vegetarian consommé and locally gathered nettles, Yukon gold potatoes, fresh artichokes, and hint of dry Vermouth, this food writer’s heart leaps up!

California Red Abalone, farm-raised along California’s Central Coast, is seldom seen on menus in the Northwest.

So although pricey (at $65 per serving), we ordered it and weren’t disappointed.

Flash-sautéed doré-style and drizzled with hazelnut lime butter, The Oyster Bar’s rendition was more tender, flavorful, and downright delectable than ones we’ve had while visiting our neighbor to the south. (I took the shells home as souvenirs!)

Spring sturgeon from nearby Willapa Bay was fresh and clean tasting, not muddy as oftentime (lamentably) happens with this fish.

The dish was lavishly sauced with blueberries and topped with fresh raspberries, and encircled by reduced balsamic vinegar and basil oil. Yum!

We enjoyed our last sips of wine and morsels of food. . .and mentally prepared ourselves for the long journey home. . .the sun set. . .

And finally dove behind the distant mountains.

URBAN enoteca: Seattle’s New Wine Center Debuts

April 26, 2011

My latest Northwest Edge column for the for the spring issue of Wine Press Northwest features URBAN enoteca, a totally cool new “wine center” just south of downtown Seattle.

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