Just in time for swimsuit season comes Tini Bigs Spa-Tini, a heady concoction of Rangpur Gin, Finlandia Vodka, orange liqueur, lime juice, eucalyptus syrup, and egg whites. According to the press release, “Eucalyptus is native to southern-hemisphere climes, where it famously comprises the diet of koalas. A diuretic, eucalyptus lowers blood sugar and adds a cool, refreshing menthol flavor, complementing the herbaceous gin. Egg whites impart festive froth and fortifying protein, and lime contributes Vitamin C.” Perhaps the Spa-Tini will counteract aftereffects from too many BLT Cocktails, which are served at The Gilt Club in Portland.

We had a festive time at the International Association of Culinary Professionals 30^th Annual International Conference in New Orleans in April. Here’s one of my fave shots, taken during the Gumbo Giveback where we tasted Gumbo Z’Herbes, Seafood Gumbo, and Gumbo Ya-Ya, among others. The event was held at the Crescent City Farmers Market, one of the first markets back in operation after Hurricane Katrina. We enjoyed dancing to a blue-grass band with the backdrop of a farm scene painted on the vintage brick buildings. Let the good times roll! 

Another interesting find at the Gumbo Gala was softshell crawfish, a local delicacy that rivals the East Coast’s famous softshell crab. Having been born and raised in Philadelphia, I grew up on those. Mom (may she rest in peace) used to cut the heads off the live crab with a pair of small manicure scissors reserved for the job, dip the limp crabs in egg wash and Ritz bread crumbs, and fry ‘em up in a skillet bubbling with at least half a stick of real Land O’Lakes butter. Those were the good, ol’ (innocent!) days, before Lipitor and Crestor. 

A special appetizer sampler began a scrumptious meal at Tulio. We always marvel at chef Walter Pisano’s take on Burrata, the super-rich Italian Mozzarella cheese with a mound of cream in the middle. It sits perfectly amidst heirloom tomatoes sprinkled with housemade basil salt and drizzled with Trampetti EVOO. A lavish piece of calamari filet is grilled, then wrapped around Tuscan rice beans with parsley aioli. Baccala, or creamy salt cod, sidles up to tomato tapenade and olive-oil-crisped crostini.

As downtown dwellers these past 18 years, we’ve seen the incredible growth and change in our own neighborhood (dubbed the West Edge) and Belltown. Part of the “progress” of new building construction has led to the destruction of the old Mom-and-Pop corner stores we had grown to know and love. Now, with the opening of Kress IGA Supermarket at Third and Pike, we don’t have to get in our cars to purchase a box of high-efficiency laundry detergent or even something as simple as a rotisserie chicken. The new full-size market feels like one you’d discover in New York City, from its dramatic underground location (with entry down a lengthy escalator) to the bright displays of produce that greet you, the antipasti bar, cheese display, and all sorts of prepared and frozen foods. As much as we love the Market (and you know we do!), it’s comforting to know you can now pick up a quart of milk any day of the week from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m.

During an early-June visit to Walla Walla for the magnificent Vintage Walla Walla, we discovered a local delicacy: Klicker strawberries. Explains Hank, a.k.a. “Bear” Ullman, executive chef at The Marc in the Marcus Whitman Hotel, “It’s a small local farm that’s been around forever, and because they aren’t shipping them to the ends of earth we get very ripe, very flavorful fruit that actually tastes like a strawberry. It’s a neat place. They do pumpkins in the fall and Christmas trees and such, family run, cute as hell. Lots of people on my crew worked as pickers when they were kids.”

We enjoyed diving into Chef Bear’s Klicker Strawberry Shortcake during a luncheon in the Millcreek/Upland Vineyard, one of the Valley’s flagship grape-growing areas (and where Leonetti Cellar sources most of its grapes). Said winemaker Myles Anderson, co-owner of and winemaker at Walla Walla Vintners, “You are sitting next to one of the best vineyards in the world.”

That may be, but on this particular “June-uary” day, the temperatures were so low and the arctic wind so driving, wine glasses blew off the table and the red wine was “naturally chilled.” Warm blankets were de rigueur. Not to mention that the grapes were a full two weeks behind schedule. Global warming in Walla Walla? Not this spring.

Open just two months, Cellars Restaurant (located in the old Jai Thai space in Belltown) is clicking on all cylinders in the food department. The calamari appetizer is one of the best in town (watch out Serafina and Barolo!), lightly herb-breaded and sautéed squid rings and tentacles mixed with plum tomatoes, avocado, and spices and formed into a lovely mound, all napped with spicy red sauce. A daily special of Dungeness Crab Spaghetti delighted, and an ample Veal Chop rounded out a very pleasant dining experience. Curiously, for a place named “Cellars,” the only thing that needs some work is the wine list, where we’d like to see more Northwest options. We chose the always- enjoyable Mer Soleil Chardonnay and were not disappointed with its lush pineapple and tropical fruit aromas and flavors, deft use of oak, and LONG finish. Yum!

Some restaurants have the right vibe straight out of the gate, and Branzino is one of those. The former En space (which undoubtedly closed because we never saw anyone En-side) has been transformed into a rosy-warm space with dark wooden booths and an open kitchen, not unlike the décor at Belltown’s beloved Queen City Grill. No small coincidence since owner Peter Lamb founded that resto and also was long associated with Il Bistro in the Pike Place Market. Although you won’t find any actual branzino (Mediterranean sea bass) on the menu just yet, the Halibut “in Paper” with Summer Vegetables and Lemon was a paean to springtime (if a bit on the small side). The Veal Chop with Roasted Lemon, Pan Jus, and Gremolata was also a meager portion, especially at $36 a plate. A better and more generous version is offered uptown at Tulio, where it’s stuffed with mozzarella, creamy spinach, leeks, truffle oil, and crispy prosciutto. I loved the wine list, a varied selection with some of the world’s best: Trimbach Pinot Gris, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Grgich Chardonnay, Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Turley Zinfandel. Our own region shines with bottles from Sineann, Abeja, Ken Wright, Owen Roe, Andrew Will, and Quilceda Creek.

My latest book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, garnered lots of lovely publicity last month. 

In the June 20-22 edition of USA Weekend, PNWD was featured, along with four other guidebooks, in an article by Emily Yahr entitled, “Road Maps to Great Eats,” in which she said:

“Each summer, millions of us hit the highway for a road trip. But after the umpteenth stop at a chain restaurant, the spirit fades. These new books can steer chowhounds to not-to-be-missed eating along the way, from quick, cheap eats to fine dining.”

Meanwhile, on June 25, PNWD was chosen Cookbook of the Day on the Slashfood.com Web site. Here’s what writer Marisa McClellan had to say:

“I went to college in Walla Walla, Washington, just as a revolution in food and wine was taking place in the area. . .In Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, Braiden Rex-Johnson captures examples of that revolution all over the region and condenses the best of the offerings into a pleasure-filled book.”

A salmon recipe from PNWD was also featured on the Sally’s Place Web site on June 23.

Finally, PNWD was on display at the Wiley booth at Book Expo America (BEA) in Los Angeles.

The Summer Sundays Chef Demonstrations at the Pike Place Market got off to a strong start with Chef Dana Bickford of Eva Restaurant making the premiere appearance on June 8. Summer Sundays, during which the north end of Pike Place is closed to cars so farmers can sell on the street, is always a festive time in the Market. This year the Chef Demos run through Sunday, September 28. Here’s Chef Tyler Krost from Il Fornaio in downtown Seattle passing out samples of his Panzanella (Summer Bread Salad) to hungry customers.

For a light, lovely summer supper, nothing beats the Sockeye Salmon and Spring Onion Kebab or the Washington Chicken, Yogurt, and Dill Kebab (or one of each!) at Lola.  Flamed in Ouzo, they emerge from the kitchen redolent of anise and awash in big flavors. Jackie’s Greek Salad (heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, red wine vinegar, a splash of good extra-virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of fresh herbs, and generous slices of barrel-aged feta)  forms the perfect side dish. Pair with a glass of good Northwest Rosé, such as the iconic Cabernet Franc Rosé from Chinook Wines. Another good one comes from Three Rivers Winery, where winemaker Holly Smith describes her wine thusly: “Our 2006 Rosé is made exclusively from Cabernet Franc grapes grown on our Biscuit Ridge and Three Rivers estate vineyards. The beautiful color was extracted within the first 24 hours after picking. Think of grandma’s homemade strawberry-rhubarb tart — take a sip and reminisce.This is a wonderfully dry Rosé made for summer sipping, pool parties and backyard barbeques. Serve well chilled.”