We made our first stop on our holiday road trip to Cannon Beach at the Country Cousin Restaurant and Lounge in Centralia, Washington, which is probably better known for its outlet shopping than its culinary choices.

The place is pleasantly quirky. A crowing rooster sound greets everyone who crosses the threshold, which helps customers get in the mood for a real down-home experience. Two days before Christmas, as travelers were on the way to grandmother’s house, no doubt, the place was packed. So instead of the main dining room, we opted for the bar (entirely non-smoking) which was decorated with dark woods, a gas fireplace, and a plethora of Christmas lights.

I ordered the Soup of the Day–Chicken Tortilla–with a side salad. It was the kind of salad adorned with canned beet strips and Pepperidge Farms Goldfish-cracker “croutons.” And guess what? With a drizzle of honey-mustard dressing, it was pretty tasty, as was the soup, an ample bowl chock full of tortilla strips and cheese.

Spencer ordered a Chili-Cheese Omelet with Onions and whole-wheat toast that would have busted any gut but his (thank heavens he’s a good eater).

Had we wanted yak, we could have had it in many iterations, from burgers to hamburger steaks to a patty melt.

Our server, Mona, was the type of motherly, middle-aged woman who calls everybody “honey.” The Country Cousin certainly primed our palates for many more culinary adventures during our trip through Washington and along the Oregon Coast.

Coffee-Toffee Choco-Cinnamon Bars

Varietal: Tawny Port

These easy-to-make bar cookies are rife with chocolate, coffee, cinnamon and vanilla, the same Essential Cane sugars you’ll sprinkle over the top for added flavor and crunch.

Makes 20 bars

1/3 cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 large egg

1/2 cup double-strength hot coffee or regular-strength espresso (See Cook’s Hint, below)

1 2/3 cups sifted all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon table salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

Vanilla Glaze (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons each Essential Cane Dark Cocoa, Espresso, Vanilla Bean and Cinnamon Flavored Cane Sugars, or to taste

Vanilla Glaze

1 1/2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

3 tablespoons whole milk or half-and-half

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 375° F. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch baking pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

2. In a large mixing bowl, with a wooden spoon, whip the butter and brown sugar until well blended, then add the egg and coffee and stir until completely incorporated.

3. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and blend well. Stir in the chocolate chips and walnuts.

4. Spread the batter in the prepared baking pan and bake until the bars rise and turn golden, and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 12 to 15 minutes. Place the baking pan over a wire rack and allow the bars to cool completely.

5. To make the glaze, in a small mixing bowl, whisk the confectioners’ sugar, butter, milk and vanilla until smooth. Pour the icing over the cooled bars and sprinkle evenly with the sugars. Allow the icing to set, then cut into squares.

Cook’s Hint: Use hot, freshly brewed coffee or espresso, or rewarm leftover coffee or espresso in the microwave or on the stovetop.

Copyright 2009 by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

If you are planning a trip to New York City this month, don’t miss a visit to the venerable James Beard House on January 20 for the Northwestern Seafood Extravaganza presented by our friend Ethan Stowell, chef/owner/founder of Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook a Wolf, Tavolàta, and Union.

From the first days of Union, we predicted Ethan’s meteoric rise. Here’s a link to a television interview I did for Seattle PBS station KCTS’s “About the Money” that discusses Ethan’s rise in the Seattle restaurant scene. Congratulations, Ethan!

Tickets for JBF Members are $125; General Public $165.