As we count down to the holidays and begin thinking about what to serve our families and friends for the special day (whatever you choose to celebrate), we will post some of our favorite recipes of all time for your consideration. Enjoy, and let us know how you like them!

Varietal: Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Franc

Serves 6

In this savory salad that first appeared within the pages of my seventh book, “Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining,” the cheese soufflés and roasted red peppers act as bridge ingredients, so wine pairings are versatile. You can go with everything from Riesling to Syrah to Cabernet Franc!

Champagne Vinaigrette

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup Champagne vinegar

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound fresh asparagus, woody stems trimmed

1 cup (4 ounces) shredded Samish Bay Montasio cheese or high-quality Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 cup heavy whipping cream

2 large eggs, slightly beaten

Kosher salt

Freshly ground white pepper

4 to 6 ounces fresh arugula leaves

4 to 6 ounces fresh watercress

1/2 cup roasted red bell peppers, homemade (see Cook’s Hint, below) or store-bought (pat very dry), cut into bite-sized pieces

1. To prepare the Champagne Vinaigrette, in a cruet or container with a tight-fitting lid, combine the olive oil and vinegar. Shake well to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Spray six 4-ounce ramekins or custard cups with nonstick vegetable cooking spray.

3. Prepare an ice bath (see Cook’s Hint, below). Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the asparagus, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus turns bright green and become tender-crisp, 2 to 5 minutes (depending on thickness). Plunge the asparagus into the ice bath until cool enough to handle. Remove the asparagus, pat dry, cut into bite-sized pieces, and set aside.

4. In a small saucepan, combine the cheese and cream. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the cheese melts. Heat until small bubbles form around the edges of the cream and steam rises off the top, but do not allow the cream to come to a boil.

5. Remove from the heat and, in a mixing bowl, whisk a very small amount of the cream mixture into the eggs (this is called tempering). Continue adding the cream very slowly and whisking constantly, being careful not to scramble the eggs. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

6. Divide the cheese mixture evenly among the custard cups (for easier handling, place the custard cups on a baking sheet without crowding). Bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until they turn golden around the edges and puff. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes at room temperature, then cover and cool 2 to 3 hours (or up to 2 days) in the refrigerator. Do not worry if the soufflés fall; they are supposed to!

7. When ready to serve, combine the arugula, watercress, reserved asparagus, and peppers in a large bowl and toss with 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the vinaigrette, or more to taste. Divide the salad among 6 salad plates. Run a small knife around the inside of each custard cup to loosen. Carefully invert the cup over the salad and tap gently to release the custard. Position the custard on top of the greens and serve.

Cook’s Hints: (1) Roast peppers in one of these three ways. Roast over a gas burner on high heat, turning frequently with kitchen tongs, until well charred on all sides; broil under a hot broiler several inches from the heat, turning frequently, until brownish-black blisters form; or roast in a preheated 400°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, turning frequently, until brownish-black blisters form. Put the roasted peppers in a paper or plastic bag, close the top, and let stand for 10 minutes. Remove the peppers from the bag and scrape off the skin; cut away the seeds and ribs. Wipe away any remaining black particles with a damp cloth, then slice or chop as needed. If desired, use thin plastic or rubber gloves to protect your hands while preparing chile peppers. (2) Ice baths are called for when blanching vegetables or fruits; the cold water immediately stops the cooking process so that the produce doesn’t become overcooked. To make an ice bath, simply fill a large mixing bowl with ice cubes and add cold water to cover the cubes.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.