A Perfect Merging of Earth and Ocean

January 24, 2012

Place Pigalle, a venerable restaurant in the Pike Place Market with heart-stopping views of Elliott Bay and a proper French bistro vibe has always been one of our favorite places for both Saturday lunch (Oyster Stew and Beet and Goat-Cheese Salad!) or an any-day-of-the week dinner.

Over the holidays, when both of us had a touch of the “crud” that was going around Seattle, and I simply didn’t feel like exerting the energy to make dinner, we stopped by around six p.m. for a cocktail to cheer ourselves up, with the hope that they might be able to squeeze us in for a bite to eat.

A drink at Place Pigalle is always a treat, not only because the bar is so well stocked and wine list so full and interesting, but because the bartendress there is very knowledgeable and personable, not to mention generous with her samples. This time she let me try Cardamom Bitters made by Seattle-based Scrappy’s, which reminded me of Scandinavian Christmas cookies and glögg, and made me lament how underused cardamom is in American cooking.

My entrée choice of Seared Scallops with Almond Purée and Braised Fennel took me to new heights, a simple-sounding dish that perfectly merged earth (a musky purée of almonds) with ocean (the plump, briny scallops). Braised fennel created the perfect anise-y, crunchy note, while a few orange segments and spinach leaves provided visual color and contrast and an acidic note.

Bravo, Place Pigalle. You heartily deserve our Dish of the Day!

Just for fun, here is Place Pigalle’s Oyster Stew.

Celebrate New Naches Heights American Viticultural Area on January 13

January 10, 2012

Just before Christmas, the induction of the state’s 12th American Viticulture Area (AVA)–Naches Heights–became official.

This is a BIG DEAL, as the petition process is lengthy and arduous, and only a few truly unique viticultural areas are chosen.

Naches Heights is a particularly interesting AVA since all the grapes produced there are certified biodynamic, organic, or sustainable!

Our friends at The Tasting Room: Wines of Washington have organized a party for this Friday evening, January 13, to celebrate Washington’s newest AVA. Phil Cline of Naches Heights Vineyard and Paul Beveridge of Wilridge Vineyard, who are growing all organic and biodynamic grapes in the Naches Heights AVA, will both be on hand for the celebration to talk about the magic of the Heights and their journeys to make it an ideal growing site.

The official presentation will be given at 6  p.m. and the celebration will continue into the evening. There will be a special flight menu and discounted prices on everything produced by Naches Heights Vineyard and Wilridge.

For further details, here is the entire press release:

Naches Heights Approved as the 12th AVA in Washington State

The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) today approved the establishment of the Naches Heights American Viticultural Area (AVA), creating Washington State’s 12th AVA. The establishment of the Naches Heights AVA will be effective in one month.

The Bureau’s approval will serve to further distinguish the quality and character of the wines produced with grapes grown on Naches Heights, a volcanic plateau located to the west of Yakima, WA. In order to carry the Naches Heights AVA, at least 85% of the grapes used to make a wine must be grown in the designated area. Naches Heights is further distinguished because all of the vineyards in the new AVA are certified biodynamic, organic or sustainable.

American Viticultural Areas are geographical wine grape growing regions in the United States with distinct soil and climate conditions. Their boundaries are defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, a division of the United States Department of the Treasury, and established at the request of wineries or other petitioners.

Phil Cline, owner of NHV vineyard and the first person to plant vines on Naches Heights, said: “We are pleased that the federal government agrees that Naches Heights is a distinctive place to grow wine grapes. We are also pleased that all of the vine growers on Naches Heights are committed to sustainable viticulture.”

Paul Beveridge, owner of Wilridge Winery & Vineyard on Naches Heights, commented: “We have been farming on Naches Heights for five years and producing wine from Naches Heights grapes for the past two years. While the large Columbia Valley AVA is characterized by river valleys and was shaped by the ancient Missoula floods, Naches Heights is located above the valleys on a one million year old Andesite lava flow from the Cascade Mountains that was never inundated by the historic floods. The Andesite is unique to Naches Heights in Washington State and we think it gives a distinctive character to our wines.”

Korean Food for the New Year

January 6, 2012

I must admit that I am not an expert when it comes to Korean cuisine.

I tested two recipes for my original Pike Place Market Cookbook that were submitted by Deluxe Barbecue, an old-time business has long-since been supplanted by a sushi place.

And everyone who’s a foodie knows about the nation’s national dish and passion–kimchi–fermented cabbage that comes in many different styles and variations.

But last month, when Spencer and I needed to make a Uwajimaya run for green tea and sake, we stopped off in the food court for lunch.

Shilla at Uwajimaya caught my eye, not only because I suspected it was an outpost of the venerable downtown Seattle Shilla, but because it was a step up from the pre-cooked, hot-table food offered elsewhere at the busy food court.

Shilla at Uwajimaya owner Ike Lee

Cooking to order, à la minute, Shilla’s owner Ike Lee told me he is a former owner of the original downtown Shilla. He’s an affable and faintly hucksterish (in a good way) sort of guy. It’s immediately apparent that he owns the place and he thrives on making his customers happy.

I happily settled in with the Tofu Soup with Seafood.

“Take the soup with a small bite of rice first,” Lee advised. “Koreans have a more spicy palate than Americans, so you need the rice to mellow the soup.”

Good advice, as the soup was pleasingly, warmingly, meltingly spiced.

Here is Spencer’s Spicy Chicken, which he asked for “extra-spicy,” so I could hardly even sample it!

Entrées came with brown or white rice, kimchi, and a chopped romaine salad with a light soy-sauce dressing.

We got out of there for less than $20 and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. Thanks, Ike!

My Seattle Restaurant Recommendations

December 27, 2011

A couple of months ago, Rhonda May, an esteemed editor friend of mine from Vancouver, British Columbia, told me she was planning a trip to Seattle and asked if we could meet up for a drink.

Rhonda publishes CityFood Magazine and website, and I’ve written articles on the Seattle dining scene for her in the past and regard her highly.

Unfortunately, we were already slated to be outta town that weekend, so I had to take a pass.

But when she asked for a few pointers, I composed a quick list, which I share with you today in case you’re in search of reliable places to take family and friends for holiday outings, or just places you might want to try yourself for a drink or a meal.

1. Be sure to wander around the Melrose Market and the Taylor Shellfish facility up on Capitol Hill. Lots of people like the resto Sitka & Spruce there–I’m not so much of a fan so you can decide for yourself.

2. In the same ‘hood are many of Seattle’s new, trendy restos. A particular fave is Cascina Spinasse for its Tajarin (thin, handcut noodles with sage and butter or meat ragu).

Skillet Diner is also always packed but we haven’t tried it yet.

Anchovies and Olives is one of Ethan Stowell’s four restos. I’d opt for Staple & Fancy (his Ballard neighborhood resto) cuz you can also have a look at Walrus & Carpenter which is right next door.

3. Ballard is also a “hot” resto neighborhood. Maria Hines (Tilth) has her new Golden Beetle there. We also enjoy Joule and Revel (newer than Joule–upscale street food) in the Wallingford and Fremont ‘hoods (same two owners), respectively.

4. Still like Steelhead Diner in the Pike Place Market or chef Kevin Davis’s newer resto Blueacre Seafood more uptown near Pacific Place shopping mall–reminds me of Vancouver restos because it’s big and cool.

5. Lecosho on the Harbor Steps has one of my all-time fave dishes, Grilled Octopus with Garbanzo Beans. Salads are excellent, too. Good happy-hour values (and HH is VERY hot right now).

6. Lots happening in the new South Lake Union area–you can take the South Lake Union Transit (SLUT!)–street car–to get there and walk all around. Tom Douglas has five restos there (!) and Chris Keff relocated her long-running Flying Fish there from Belltown, which is more of a bar than resto scene lately (and more dangerous as a result, sadly). Seastar is also known for its good seafood and excellent wine list. The Whole Foods Market there is huge and an anchor of the ‘hood.

7. The Eastside has lots of clones of downtown Sea restos and has really grown up A LOT in the past few years. At The Bravern you’ll find John Howie Steaks (Howie owns Seastar and there’s one of those on the Eastside as well) and the gorgeous second location of Wild Ginger, always reliable. Nearby is a location of El Gaucho (steakhouse), Joey’s, Palomino, Cheesecake Factory, ‘Z Tejas, etc.

Happy Holiday Eating and Drinking to one and all!

Authentic Panettone in Downtown Seattle

December 20, 2011

My last Taste column of 2011 for The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine focuses on Maria Coassin, the owner and founder of Gelatiamo, the popular gelato and pastry shop in downtown Seattle, just a few blocks up the street from our condo.

I enjoyed interviewing and writing about the stylish Italian beauty (who cooks in high heels!), and who started at the “corner of First and Hell” (Union Street) in 1996. It was the same year she introduced fresh panettone, the traditional sweet bread of Italy made during the holiday season, to Seattle.

Maria Coassin of Gelatiamo with her famous panettone

Here’s a photo of her proudly holding one of her “babies”–her 27-hours-in-the-making panettone.

The crumb 0f the bread is so fragile, the loaves must hang upside down for several hours lest they collapse under their own weight. They remind me of bats in a cave!

Panettone leftovers (if there are any!) are great in bread pudding or French toast.

Downtown Seattle Holiday Traditions

December 16, 2011

My latest Taste column for The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine celebrates the downtown Seattle holiday traditions that Spencer and I have established since moving to the city 21 years ago.

Gingerbread Pudding at icon Grill

Among the traditions?

Lunch at icon Grill with my two best girlfriends. Here’s a photo of the yummy Gingerbread Pudding that’s offered up as one of the restaurant’s four holiday desserts. It was divine–gingerbread in an eggy, ginger-tinged pudding with two large scoops of double-cream ice cream and caramel sauce on the top.

If that doesn’t suit (can’t imagine, but just in case!), here are some other sweet holiday options offered up at icon: Candy Cane Cake, “Build Your Own” Holiday Cookie Plate, or Pumpkin Cheesecake.

Yum, and calories be damned!

It’s a Great Time to Buy a Cookbook!

December 13, 2011

The last few years have brought tough times to traditional brick-and-mortar local and independent, not to mention one big national chain bookstore (RIP Borders).

So I was very heartened as we walked through Macy’s in downtown Seattle last weekend, when I spotted two of my titles in several displays in Barbara’s Book Nook on the main floor near a major exit. Great placement!

Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (pictured above in the second row, left-hand side) was available in one book dump. . .

The second edition of the Pike Place Market Cookbook on another.

Now, if I could just get Barbara to stock the gift edition of the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook!

Feeling Purple

December 6, 2011

We were out in Woodinville picking up some wine a couple of Saturdays ago and happened in to the Purple Cafe & Wine Bar location there for a late lunch.

We have had inconsistent experiences with the Purple downtown, but decided to see what one of its  Eastside outposts might offer.

We were very happy with two salads we tried.

Purple Roasted Beets Salad, with Grilled Salmon, included multi-colored beets, generous knobs of Laura Chenel chèvre (goat’s-milk cheese), orange segments, toasted pistachios, and a honking-big piece of perfectly cooked (rare in the middle) salmon was my lucky choice. Orange-balsamic vinaigrette was the perfect light dressing, and arrived on the side, as requested.

Spencer did just as well with his Purple Chop Salad with Blackened Salmon astride. It comprised romaine hearts, bacon, avocado, garbanzos, roasted red bell pepper, blue cheese, and red onion tossed in balsamic vinaigrette.

The following Saturday we unabashedly ate lunch at the Purple downtown, where their winning ways with salad continued as SJ ordered another Purple Chop Salad and I tried the Apple, Walnut, Stilton Salad, again topped with a lovely piece of grilled salmon.

At $9 to $10 for half salads (which is plenty for most people), $12 for full sizes, plus $4 if you add pulled chicken, $6 for prawns or marinated flank steak, and $7 for grilled salmon or a crab cake, Purple in its various iterations offers a plethora of toothsome and carefully-cooked main-dish salads to appeal to almost any appetite.

The Cranberry Chicken Salad with grilled chicken, bacon, almonds, scallions, celery, apples, dried cranberries, parmigiano-reggiano, and cranberry-dijon vinaigrette would be particularly festive this time of the year.

Gone Fishing!

October 4, 2011

This is an exciting time for Spencer and me when we both celebrate milestone birthdays in the next two weeks (55 for me, 70 for him!), then our 30th anniversary in December.

To mark the occasion, and since we skipped taking a summer vacation this year, we’re heading off for a few weeks of much-needed r&r.

So during this time, instead of new Northwest Notes content, I’ll be bringing back some of my favorite blog posts from throughout the years.

I hope you enjoy this window back in time as much as I enjoyed re-reading and re-posting them for you.

Happy autumn! Wish us happy leaf-watching as we begin our Fall Foliage cruise up the United States East Coast and down through the St. Lawrence Seaway in eastern Canada.

Back in the saddle late-October!

Local 360

September 23, 2011

Local 360 is the still fairly new restaurant in the former Flying Fish space in Belltown. It has a rustic vibe and was packed with a good mixed crowd (young folks sipping cocktails at the bar, two guys taking sports next to us, a couple of families, and older folks like us).

Here are the gorgeous “Small Plate” Mediterranean mussels that Spencer and I shared (we were starving after a movie and small lunch, so quickly devoured them). A French Rosé was a good choice for wine pairing.

This is the intriguing Fried Albacore Tuna Collar that I enjoyed as my entrée. Plenty of meat and very nicely prepared. Something I’d love to eat again!

And Spencer’s more-then-ample “Large Plate” Pork Tenderloin with a hearty Mustard Sauce and plenty of green beans.

For further thoughts on 360 Local, read my colleague and friend at The Seattle Times, Providence Cicero’s, two-star review.

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