Sweet Corn and Basil Bisque

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Serves 6 as an appetizer

This summery corn soup comes from chef Big John Caudill, a bigger-than-life personality who’s cooked at wineries, charity events, and restaurants (and even owned one of his own) throughout Washington wine country since 1989 and now hosts lavish Sunday night dinners in the Yakima Valley. Big John likes to serve his dish with grilled bread and a chilled glass of Washington-state Sauvignon Blanc. Like the chef who created it, the soup boasts big flavors-sweet corn, salt, black pepper, and a piquant note of Tabasco. Meanwhile, the wine “is crisp and refreshing and balances out the creaminess of the soup very well,” according to John. Those with timid palates might cut back on the black pepper and Tabasco the first time they make the soup, although I found their presence agreeably tongue-tingling and throat-warming.

6 to 7 ears sweet corn, husks and strings removed and discarded, ears rinsed and patted dry

4 cups chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup minced Walla Walla sweet onion or other variety of sweet onion

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup peeled and diced russet potatoes

1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

2 tablespoons fresh minced basil, plus extra sprigs, for garnish

3 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream

1. With a large, sharp kitchen knife, cut the kernels from the corn and save the cobs. Measure 4 cups of kernels and set aside. Save any remaining kernels for use in another recipe.

2. Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan, add the corn cobs (cut in half if needed to fit the pan), cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the stock is infused with the flavor of the corncobs, about 20 minutes. Strain the cobs and discard; keep the stock warm.

3. Melt the butter in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, shallot, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the reserved corn kernels, the potatoes, 3 cups of the warm stock, the salt, and pepper, and stir well. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are very tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

4. Add the cream and Tabasco and stir well. In a food processor or blender, pulse the soup in batches until very smooth, adding the batches back to the stockpot to re-warm. (An immersion blender also works well to purée the soup.)

5. If needed, add some or all of the remaining 1 cup of chicken stock to thin the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then gently stir in the basil.

6. Ladle the soup into 6 soup bowls, dollop with crème fraîche, and garnish with fresh basil sprigs.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Salmon Fillets Baked in Grape-Leaf Wraps

Varietal: Dry Rosé

Serves 4

In this original recipe of mine, which appears in the wonderful compilation cookbook, “Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink” (Sasquatch Books, 2008), I illustrate how to use grape leaves to protect the delicate flesh of salmon fillets as they bake. The leaves add an earthy look, as well as a pleasantly salty flavor and a bit of suspense as guests unwrap their entrée and discover a rich paste of fresh basil and sun-dried tomatoes topping the salmon inside the packets. You can choose to eat the grape leaves or not. Wine pairing is a bit complex due to the brininess of the capers and grape leaves, but you can’t go wrong with a silky Washington or California dry Rosé with lots of notes of fresh strawberries, raspberries, and rose petals.

Olive Oil

3 ounces (about 1/2 cup) sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil

1/2 cup firmly packed fresh basil leaves (about 4 to 5 sprigs of fresh basil, stemmed)

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

4 teaspoons capers, drained and rinsed

24 preserved grape leaves (about half a 16-ounce jar)

Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, skinned and boned, rinsed, and patted dry

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 teaspoons unsalted butter, cold (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly brush a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil. Drain the sun-dried tomatoes and reserve 1 tablespoon of the oil. (Some oil will continue to cling to the tomatoes; this is okay. If draining the tomatoes does not yield 1 tablespoon of oil, add olive oil to make up the difference.) Coarsely chop the tomatoes and add with the reserved oil to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add the basil, garlic, and capers, and process until the ingredients are finely chopped and form a thick paste. Scrape down the sides of bowl two or three times as needed to blend the mixture completely. Scoop the tomato-basil paste into a small bowl and set aside.

2. Lay out 6 of the grape leaves on a large cutting board so they form a patch approximately 10 by 10 inches. The dull side of the leaf (the side with the protruding veins) should face up so the shiny outside of the leaf faces out when fillets are wrapped. The grape leaf patch should be large enough to accommodate a salmon fillet, with enough overlapping to wrap the salmon completely.

3. Place a salmon fillet in the center of the grape leaves. Lightly sprinkle the fillet with salt and pepper (about 1/4 teaspoon salt and 4 grinds of black pepper per fillet). For each fillet, cut 2 teaspoons of cold butter into 4 pieces and dot evenly over the fillet. With a spatula, spread one quarter of the tomato-basil paste over the top of the fish. Fold the grape leaves, first from the top and bottom, then from the right and left sides toward the center, overlapping. Place the salmon packet on the baking sheet seam side down. Repeat this process with the remaining grape leaves and fillets.

4. Cook the packets for 8 to 12 minutes, depending on the degree of doneness desired. To test for doneness, cut into the center of a packet with the tip of a small, sharp knife and pull the salmon apart gently. If it is still slightly translucent in the center, it is cooked medium rare. If it is opaque in the center, it is well done. Be very careful not to overcook, as the salmon will continue to cook after you remove it from the oven.

5. Place the packets on dinner plates and serve immediately, allowing guests to open their own packets. Or you can open the packets part way so that just a bit of the steamy fish peeks through.

Cook’s Hints: (1) The recipe uses about half of a jar of preserved grape leaves. Those not used can be rewound and repacked into the jar with their brine; add water if necessary to cover the leaves. (2) The packets can be prepared up to the point of cooking early in the day and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature for about an hour, then bake immediately before serving.

Recipe reprinted from Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink (Sasquatch Books, 2008).

Garden-Fresh Gazpacho with Garlic Croutons

Varietal: Chardonnay (Unoaked)

Serves 6 to 8

This recipe comes from Penny Durant, who with husband Ken, owns and operates Red Ridge Farms. It’s a small herb and specialty plant nursery and garden shop located on a prime site with sweeping views of the Red Hills of Dundee. They even grow olive trees and press their own oil at their second venture, the Oregon Olive Mill! Penny’s recipe is as healthy as the lifestyle she represents; it serves as the perfect light, summer appetizer on its own, or a main course with the addition of chilled cooked Alaskan spot prawns, shrimp, or Dungeness crabmeat. An unoaked Chardonnay, with its citrusy notes, works well, although red-wine lovers may prefer a light, slightly chilled red, such as Lemberger or Gamay Noir.

1 1/2 pounds heirloom tomatoes, cored, peeled, and coarsely chopped (about 2 1/2 cups), plus any juice that accumulates (Note: See Cook’s Hint, below)

1 large cucumber, peeled and coarsely chopped (2 cups)

1 small white or yellow onion, coarsely chopped (1 cup)

1 medium green bell pepper, seeds and membranes removed and coarsely chopped (1 cup)

One 4-ounce jar pimientos, drained

Two 11.5-ounce cans tomato juice

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce, plus extra for seasoning

1/8 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

3 large cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

2 cups day-old artisan sourdough bread cubes (1/2-inch cubes)

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives

1. At least 2 hours before you plan to serve, in a food processor or blender, pulse about half of the tomatoes, cucumber, onion, and bell pepper, along with the jar of pimientos and half of 1 can of the tomato juice until smooth, 15 to 30 seconds. Pour into a large mixing bowl. Repeat the blending procedure with the remaining vegetables and the other half of the can of tomato juice. Pour the liquid into the mixing bowl.

2. Stir together the puréed vegetables with the remaining 1 can of tomato juice, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the vinegar, salt, Tabasco, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours and preferably overnight to allow the flavors to meld. Refrigerate 6 to 8 soup bowls.

3. When ready to serve, rub the inside of a small skillet with the cut garlic. Reserve the garlic. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil to the skillet and heat over medium heat. When hot (the oil should bubble around the edges of the cubes when you put them in), cook the bread cubes, turning periodically with kitchen tongs so all the sides are coated with oil, until toasted, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels.

4. Crush the reserved garlic and add it to the chilled soup, mixing well. Ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, float a few croutons in each bowl, and sprinkle with the chives.

Cook’s Hint: To peel a tomato, cut a shallow “X” in the bottom end and drop it into boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and transfer the tomato to an ice bath. After 15 to 20 seconds, remove the tomato, pat dry, and slip off the skin with a sharp knife. To seed, cut the tomato in half horizontally and gently squeeze the halves over a bowl to force out the seeds. Fingers or a small spoon work well to remove any remaining seeds.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Walla Walla Sweet Onion Frittata

Varietal: Chardonnay (Oaked)

Serves 6 to 8

Walla Walla sweet onions, which are in season from June to September, were declared the official state vegetable of Washington State in 2007. They’re featured here, along with fresh herbs of the season and chèvre (fresh, young goat’s-milk cheese), in a recipe by Seattle chef Mike Davis. If you don’t care for big, oaky Chardonnays, try pairing this plump, flavorful frittata with a dry Rosé, a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, or a big, fat Semillon.

12 large eggs

3/4 cup whole or low-fat milk

1 cup firmly packed mixed fresh herbs, minced, preferably parsley, thyme, marjoram, basil, and chives

Pinch of kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small Walla Walla sweet onion, minced

3 ounces fresh, young goat’s-milk cheese (chèvre) or 1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) grated Asiago or Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. In a mixing bowl whisk together the eggs, milk, mixed herbs, salt, and a sprinkle or two of pepper, and set aside.

3. Place a large nonstick, ovenproof skillet over medium to medium-high heat and add the butter and oil. When the butter has melted, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

4. Add the egg mixture to the skillet and continue to cook. When the egg begins to form a light crust on the bottom, lift the sides and allow the liquid eggs to run into the bottom of the skillet. Continue cooking until another crust forms, and repeat the procedure until almost all the liquid eggs are cooked.

5. Remove the skillet from the heat and slide the frittata onto a plate. Using pot holders, place the skillet over the plate and carefully invert the frittata back into the skillet. Place the skillet in the oven and cook until the frittata puffs slightly and is cooked throughout, 3 to 5 minutes.

6. Break the chèvre into small pieces and sprinkle evenly over the top of the frittata, or sprinkle evenly with the Asiago or Parmesan cheese.

7. To serve, cut the frittata into equal portions and serve immediately.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Sticky Chicky (Coconut Chicken with Chili Glaze)

Varietal: Riesling

4 servings

Susan and Scott DeSeelhorst own Snake River Winery and Arena Valley Vineyard in Parma, Idaho. Scott, a trained chef and former restaurant owner, enjoys creating new dishes to pair with his wines, such as a dish he and Susan affectionately call Sticky Chicky. The Thai-style chicken dish is similar to satay, with a glossy, complex glaze reminiscent of a good-quality Chinese barbecue sauce. As far as wines go, Snake River Winery’s Riesling is an excellent pairing with most foods, thanks to sufficient alcohol (12 percent) and well-balanced acids and sugar. The exception, Scott notes, is red meat and similar strong proteins. The chef/winemaker recommends Snake River Riesling as a match with Asian, Southwestern, and spicier foods; with dessert; or even as an after-dinner cordial.

Chili Glaze

3/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Coconut Chicken

1 1/2 cups regular or “light” (reduced fat) coconut milk (shake the can before opening and stir well before measuring)

3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs or boneless, skinless chicken breasts (See Cook’s Hint below)

2 cups cooked jasmine or long-grain white rice

2 tablespoons sliced green onions, for garnish

1. At least three hours before you plan to cook, in order to allow the flavors to meld and the glaze to thicken, make the Chili Glaze.

2. Place the rice vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, ginger, and red pepper flakes in a small saucepan and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat.

3. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the glaze reaches the consistency of maple syrup, 20 to 25 minutes. (It will thicken a bit more once it comes to room temperature or is refrigerated.) Be careful not to cook at too high a temperature or for too long, or the glaze will harden before you can drizzle it over the chicken. Set the glaze aside and re-warm it when ready to use.

4. Combine the coconut milk, ginger, black pepper, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl and stir well. Pour 1/2 cup of the marinade in a small glass mixing bowl, cover, and refrigerate until needed.

5. Pour the remaining marinade into a large, resealable plastic bag. Add the chicken and turn to coat on all sides. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours or, preferably, overnight, turning occasionally to redistribute the marinade over the chicken.

6. Ten minutes before cooking, preheat the broiler. Prepare a broiling pan with a rack and oil the rack lightly or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

7. Remove the reserved marinade from the refrigerator. Arrange the chicken pieces on the rack without crowding and cook for 3 minutes.

8. Remove from the broiler, brush with the reserved marinade, return to the broiler, and cook for 3 minutes more. Remove from the broiler, turn the meat, brush with the reserved marinade, return to the broiler, and cook for 3 minutes more.

9. Continue this process one or two more times, for a total of 12 to 15 minutes, or until the chicken is opaque throughout. Do not brush the chicken after it is out of the oven and completely cooked through, and discard any unused marinade.

10. Divide the rice among six dinner plates and arrange the cooked chicken on top of the rice. Drizzle with the re-warmed glaze or serve the glaze in separate small dipping bowls. Garnish the chicken with the green onions.

Cook’s Hint: Susan and Scott DeSeelhorst prefer chicken thighs to breasts in this recipe because the dark meat retains its moistness and is more flavorful. The chicken can also be grilled on the stove top, although it tends to splatter and be a bit messier than cooking under the broiler. Be sure to oil the grill pan well before cooking the chicken to avoid tough cleanups. The Chili Glaze can be made up to two weeks ahead. Allow the glaze to cool completely at room temperature, transfer to a nonreactive container, and refrigerate until using.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Mixed Greens with Fallen Cheese Soufflés and Champagne Vinaigrette

Varietal: Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Franc

Serves 6

Thanks to stunning views of the Olympic Mountains combined with a laid-back Northwest atmosphere and regional seafood done up right, Ray’s Boathouse consistently lands on many “best of” lists; indeed, savvy tourists and locals consider it one of the quintessential Seattle dining experiences. In this savory salad created by executive chef Peter Birk, the cheese soufflés and roasted red peppers act as bridge ingredients, so wine pairings are versatile. Chef Peter suggests everything from Riesling to Syrah to Cabernet Franc.

Champagne Vinaigrette

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup Champagne vinegar

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound fresh asparagus, woody stems trimmed

1 cup (4 ounces) shredded Samish Bay Montasio cheese or high-quality Parmesan or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 cup heavy whipping cream

2 large eggs, slightly beaten

Kosher salt

Freshly ground white pepper

4 to 6 ounces fresh arugula leaves

4 to 6 ounces fresh watercress

1/2 cup roasted red bell peppers, homemade (see Cook’s Hint, below) or store-bought (pat very dry), cut into bite-sized pieces

1. To prepare the Champagne Vinaigrette, in a cruet or container with a tight-fitting lid, combine the olive oil and vinegar. Shake well to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Spray six 4-ounce ramekins or custard cups with nonstick vegetable cooking spray.

3. Prepare an ice bath (see Cook’s Hint, below). Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the asparagus, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus turns bright green and become tender-crisp, 2 to 5 minutes (depending on thickness). Plunge the asparagus into the ice bath until cool enough to handle. Remove the asparagus, pat dry, cut into bite-sized pieces, and set aside.

4. In a small saucepan, combine the cheese and cream. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the cheese melts. Heat until small bubbles form around the edges of the cream and steam rises off the top, but do not allow the cream to come to a boil.

5. Remove from the heat and, in a mixing bowl, whisk a very small amount of the cream mixture into the eggs (this is called tempering). Continue adding the cream very slowly and whisking constantly, being careful not to scramble the eggs. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

6. Divide the cheese mixture evenly among the custard cups (for easier handling, place the custard cups on a baking sheet without crowding). Bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until they turn golden around the edges and puff. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes at room temperature, then cover and cool 2 to 3 hours (or up to 2 days) in the refrigerator. Do not worry if the soufflés fall; they are supposed to!

7. When ready to serve, combine the arugula, watercress, reserved asparagus, and peppers in a large bowl and toss with 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the vinaigrette, or more to taste. Divide the salad among 6 salad plates. Run a small knife around the inside of each custard cup to loosen. Carefully invert the cup over the salad and tap gently to release the custard. Position the custard on top of the greens and serve.

Cook’s Hints: (1) Roast peppers in one of these three ways. Roast over a gas burner on high heat, turning frequently with kitchen tongs, until well charred on all sides; broil under a hot broiler several inches from the heat, turning frequently, until brownish-black blisters form; or roast in a preheated 400°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, turning frequently, until brownish-black blisters form. Put the roasted peppers in a paper or plastic bag, close the top, and let stand for 10 minutes. Remove the peppers from the bag and scrape off the skin; cut away the seeds and ribs. Wipe away any remaining black particles with a damp cloth, then slice or chop as needed. If desired, use thin plastic or rubber gloves to protect your hands while preparing chile peppers. (2) Ice baths are called for when blanching vegetables or fruits; the cold water immediately stops the cooking process so that the produce doesn’t become overcooked. To make an ice bath, simply fill a large mixing bowl with ice cubes and add cold water to cover the cubes.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Sea Scallops with Fennel-Orange Marmalade

Varietal: Pinot Gris

Serves 10 to 15; makes 30 appetizers

This plush dish, which hails from Bethel Heights Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, invigorates the taste buds by pairing the sweet-musky flavor of scallops with the bracing edge of orange and the astringency of fennel. Pair it with a good-quality Pinot Gris (such as Bethel Heights) and notice how the light aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, orange, and stone fruit, topped off by a hint of minerality, along with a crisp, dry finish complement the flavors in the marmalade. You will have about a cup of marmalade left over; it keeps in the refrigerator for up to a week or freezes well for later use. It is excellent paired with a small block of cream cheese and crackers as a quick appetizer, as a dipping sauce for shrimp, or as a chutney or salsa with pork tenderloin. If serving the marmalade with pork tenderloin, pair the dish with your favorite Oregon Pinot Noir.

1 fennel bulb, diced (about 2 1/4 cups), plus the feathery green tops, minced, for garnish

2 tablespoons diced shallots

2 oranges, peeled, segmented, and diced, plus any juice that accumulates

1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest

4 cups freshly squeezed or store-bought orange juice

1/4 cup white wine

l/4 cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon whole fennel seed

1/4 cup Cointreau or other orange-flavored liqueur

Granulated sugar

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter, plus extra as needed

30 fresh or thawed untreated (dry pack) sea scallops, rinsed, drained, and patted very dry
(see Cook’s Hint, below)

30 good-quality whole-wheat crackers

1. Heat a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the diced fennel, shallots, orange segments and their juice, zest, orange juice, white wine, brown sugar, and fennel seed and stir well. Bring to a rolling boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced to about 2 cups, 30 to 35 minutes. At the beginning of the cooking time, watch the pan carefully so the orange juice does not boil over.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Cointreau. Taste the marmalade; if it is too tart, add sugar to taste. Return the pan to the heat and cook, stirring often, until it reaches the consistency of chutney, 3 to 5 minutes. In the last minutes of cooking, watch carefully and stir often so the marmalade doesn’t burn. Transfer half of the marmalade to a small nonreactive bowl or jar, allow to cool completely, cover, and save for another use (see headnote). Keep the remaining marmalade warm until ready to serve.

3. In a large heavy-bottomed skillet (nonstick works best for this), heat the olive oil and butter over medium to medium-high heat until the butter foams. Working in batches, add the scallops without crowding. Cook the scallops, turning only once, until golden brown on the outside and still translucent in the middle (see Cook’s Hints, below), 1 to 2 minutes per side. Add more butter and oil if needed.

4. To serve, place a cooked scallop on a cracker and top with a scant teaspoon of marmalade. Garnish with the minced fennel greens.

Cook’s Hints: (1) If you can’t find fresh scallops, it is important to use previously frozen untreated or “dry pack” scallops instead, or the scallops will not brown (caramelize) properly, and will instead steam in their own juices. Previously frozen scallops that have been treated with phosphates during processing absorb water. Not only do they not cook properly, they lack the fresh, sweet, and briny sea flavor of their dry-packed cousins. Sea scallops that are uniformly white in color, or that are displayed surrounded by juice, are most likely treated. (2) Scallops (like many types of seafood) are delicate and will continue to cook even after they are taken off the heat. It is always preferable to undercook rather than overcook scallops so they don’t become tough and rubbery. When using the sauté method described above, many chefs prefer the scallops cooked medium rare (still translucent in the middle).

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Golden Beet Carpaccio

Varietal: Chardonnay

Serves 4

You either love ‘em or you hate ‘em. Of course, I’m talking about beets. But if you are an aficionado, you’ll especially appreciate this recipe that comes from my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, thanks to chef Maria Hines, owner of Tilth restaurant. Totally organic Tilth is an unpretentious, buttery-yellow space located in a Craftsman-style house in the bustling Wallingford neighborhood of Seattle, a few miles north of downtown. Almost everything on the menu is preceded by the farmers’ or fishers’ names, so you can eat to your heart’s content with a clear conscience. The salad below demonstrates Chef Maria’s style of using simple ingredients to create bold flavors and beautiful plate presentations. The salad can take on a more rustic look if you simply cut the golden beets into one-inch cubes and toss them with the vinaigrette instead of slicing the beets and drizzling the vinaigrette.

Herb Vinaigrette

4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

4 sprigs fresh tarragon

4 sprigs fresh chervil

4 fresh chive stalks

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 medium golden or red beets, scrubbed and tops and root ends trimmed (See Cook’s Hints, below)

5 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup pine nuts, walnuts, or hazelnuts, toasted (See Cook’s Hints, below)

1/2 cup (2 ounces) fresh, soft goat’s-milk cheese (chèvre), crumbled

1. To make the Herb Vinaigrette, mince the parsley, tarragon, chervil, and chives. Transfer to a small mixing bowl and gently stir in the olive oil and vinegar. Set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a small roasting pan with aluminum foil.

3. Add the beets and thyme sprigs to the roasting pan and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Fill the pan with water until the beets are almost completely submerged, cover with aluminum foil, and bake the beets for 1 to 1  1/4 hours, or until they are very tender. To test, insert the tip of a small, sharp knife into the center of one of the beets. Remove the beets from the pan and let cool. When the beets are cool enough to handle, remove the skins.

4. To serve, slice the beets into very thin rounds. Arrange them on 4 small plates in a spiral pattern, overlapping them to form a circle. Drizzle the beets with the vinaigrette, then sprinkle the pine nuts and goat cheese evenly over the beets. If desired, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.

Cook’s Hints: (1) To toast nuts or seeds (sesame, mustard, coriander, pumpkin, or cumin), heat them in a small, dry skillet over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until they begin to turn light brown and/or give off their aroma (mustard seeds begin to pop), shaking the pan back and forth often so the ingredients do not burn. Remove from heat, cool, and add to your recipe, or grind as directed. (2) Chef Maria uses a clean, dry kitchen towel to remove the beet skins by simply wiping them off, a method that also saves your hands from getting stained by beet juice.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Coffee-Toffee Choco-Cinnamon Bars

Varietal: Tawny Port

These easy-to-make bar cookies are rife with chocolate, coffee, cinnamon and vanilla, the same Essential Cane sugars you’ll sprinkle over the top for added flavor and crunch.

Makes 20 bars

1/3 cup unsalted butter or margarine, softened

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 large egg

1/2 cup double-strength hot coffee or regular-strength espresso (See Cook’s Hint, below)

1 2/3 cups sifted all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon table salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

Vanilla Glaze (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons each Essential Cane Dark Cocoa, Espresso, Vanilla Bean and Cinnamon Flavored Cane Sugars, or to taste

Vanilla Glaze

1 1/2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

3 tablespoons whole milk or half-and-half

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 375° F. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch baking pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

2. In a large mixing bowl, with a wooden spoon, whip the butter and brown sugar until well blended, then add the egg and coffee and stir until completely incorporated.

3. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and blend well. Stir in the chocolate chips and walnuts.

4. Spread the batter in the prepared baking pan and bake until the bars rise and turn golden, and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 12 to 15 minutes. Place the baking pan over a wire rack and allow the bars to cool completely.

5. To make the glaze, in a small mixing bowl, whisk the confectioners’ sugar, butter, milk and vanilla until smooth. Pour the icing over the cooled bars and sprinkle evenly with the sugars. Allow the icing to set, then cut into squares.

Cook’s Hint: Use hot, freshly brewed coffee or espresso, or rewarm leftover coffee or espresso in the microwave or on the stovetop.

Copyright 2009 by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Sun-Dried Tomato and Pesto Torte

Varietal: Syrah, Chardonnay (Unoaked), Lemberger, or Rosé

Serves 16 to 20 as an appetizer

This flavorful, easy-to-make appetizer makes a beautiful plate presentation that will be perfect for entertaining friends and family around the holidays. For red-wine lovers, pair the luscious, boldly flavored torte with Syrah or Lemberger; white-wine lovers will prefer an unoaked Chardonnay, while a dry Rosé is another intriguing option.

Three 8-ounce packages cream cheese, at room temperature

1/2 cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon minced garlic

7 ounces homemade basil-based pesto, one 7-ounce container refrigerated basil-based pesto, or one 6.35-ounce jar basil-based pesto

One 8.5-ounce jar oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, well drained and minced

2 fresh basil leaves, for garnish

12 cherry tomatoes, for garnish

1 baguette, cut into 1/4-inch slices, for serving

1. One or two days before you plan to serve, line a 5-cup mold or medium mixing bowl with pieces of plastic wrap long enough to hang out over the sides (the long pieces will be used to wrap the torte). Place the cream cheese, Parmesan, and garlic in a food processor and pulse until well blended.

2. Spoon one-third of the cream cheese mixture into the bottom of the mold and smooth the top. Spoon the pesto evenly over the cream cheese layer. Spoon half of the remaining cream cheese mixture over the pesto and smooth the top. Evenly cover the second layer of cream cheese mixture with the sun-dried tomatoes. Spoon the remaining cream cheese mixture on top of the tomatoes and smooth the top.

3. Carefully strike the filled mold on the countertop to pack down the layers. Bring the long ends of plastic wrap up and over the top of the torte to cover completely. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours to allow the flavors to meld.

4. Just before serving, unwrap the long pieces of plastic wrap, place a serving platter over the mold, hold the platter, and carefully flip the mold and platter. Remove and discard the plastic wrap. Garnish the torte with fresh basil leaves and cherry tomatoes and serve with the baguette slices.

Cook’s Hint: You can make this torte up to 2 days ahead of time to allow the flavors to develop even further. You can also vary the flavor of the torte depending on the type of pesto choose. Use your own homemade version or various other varieties, such as arugula or cilantro.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.