Halibut with Sundried-Tomato Tapenade

Wine Varietal: Lemberger

Tapenade, a thick paste used as a condiment in the Provence region of France, is traditionally made of capers, anchovies, ripe olives, olive oil, lemon juice, and seasonings. My bright, lemony version offers a bold contrast in color, taste, and texture to mild-flavored, simply-broiled halibut. A mini-food processor helps cut down on preparation time, although the ingredients can also be minced by hand. Any leftover tapenade can be served with other finfish, vegetables, or chicken.

1 cup sundried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and coarsely chopped

1/2 cup pimento-stuffed green olives, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon capers

1 clove garlic, halved

Zest of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lemon, freshly squeezed

Tabasco

1 1/2 pounds halibut fillets, 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick, skin and bones removed, rinsed, drained, patted dry, and cut into four 6-ounce fillets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1. Preheat the broiler. Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Place the sundried tomatoes, olives, capers, garlic, and lemon zest in a mini food processor and pulse until minced. Alternately, mince the ingredients by hand.

3. Place the minced vegetables and lemon juice in a small nonreactive mixing bowl and stir well. Season to taste with Tabasco. Cover and set aside at room temperature while preparing the fish.

4. Sprinkle the cod fillets lightly on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the fillets on the prepared baking sheet and brush lightly with olive oil.

5. Place the fish under the broiler 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil 5 to 7 minutes, depending on the thickness of  the fillets, which should just turn opaque.

6. Divide the fish fillets among 4 dinner plates. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the tapenade beside each fillet.

Fava Bean Dip with Pecorino Romano and Garden Mint

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Makes about 3 cups

This recipe from the Pike Place Market’s venerable Pink Door restaurant is courtesy of owner Jackie Roberts, a.k.a., La Padrona. This spring-time appetizer was inspired by Jackie’s fond memories of her grandfather eating raw fava beans along with a wedge of cheese, a hunk of crusty bread, and a glass of wine. Luckily, in her iteration, the favas are briefly cooked before puréeing with garlic, parsley, and olive oil to form a bright green spread.

4 to 5 pounds fresh fava beans in the shell

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 large clove garlic, coarsely chopped

3/4 to 1 cup olive oil

3/4 to 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper, or to taste

Bruschetta (recipe follows)

1 ounce Pecorino Romano cheese

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

1. To prepare the fava beans, remove the beans from the shells and discard the shells. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil and add the beans. Cook 30 to 60 seconds, drain, and rinse in cold water. When the beans are cool enough to handle, slit one side of the husk with the tip of a small, sharp kitchen knife, and pop out the bean inside. Repeat with the remaining beans, which should yield about 4 cups.

2. Place the beans, parsley, and garlic in a food processor and pulse until the beans resemble small pebbles. With the motor running, add the olive oil in a thin, slow stream until the fava beans reach a thick consistency, scraping down the sides of bowl once or twice. You may need anywhere from 3/4 to 1 cup of oil.

3. Transfer the bean mixture to a medium mixing bowl and stir in 3/4 cup of the lemon juice. Add additional lemon juice if necessary to reach a spreadable consistency. Stir in the salt and pepper, taste the purée, and add more salt or pepper if desired.

4. To serve, spread the fava bean purée on the bruschetta. Using a clean, dry vegetable peeler, shave curls of cheese over the brushetta and sprinkle with mint.

Bruschetta

1 loaf crusty country bread, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, halved

1. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and place 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and rub one side of each bread slice with the halved cloves of garlic, then brush lightly with olive oil.

Cook’s Hint: Although your first instinct might be to use extra virgin olive oil in the fava bean purée, Jackie advises not using it in this particular recipe. It is too pungent and makes the purée bitter instead of buttery smooth. A good second-press olive oil does the job and is less expensive than extra virgin oil.

Pacific Rim Seafood Boil

Wine Varietal: Off-Dry Riesling

The Dungeness crab is the prize catch of the oldest shellfish fishery in the North Pacific. Cancer Magister, the “big crab,” provides one of the best traditional foods of the region, often simply steamed or boiled. Here the “Dungie” finds refuge in a light, healthy broth redolent with fresh lemongrass and gingerroot, a Pacific Rim twist on the traditional Northwest crab feed. To eat this dish properly, seafood forks, crab crackers, and extra napkins are mandatory.

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 pound Alaskan spot prawns or medium-sized shrimp, shelled and deveined, shells reserved

4 stalks lemongrass, outer leaves discarded and soft inner core chopped into 1/4-inch rounds, about 1/2 cup

2 tablespoons minced gingerroot

4 cloves garlic, peeled and halved

Pinch hot red pepper flakes

1/2 cup mirin (Japanese rice wine) or dry Sherry

4 cups homemade vegetable stock OR 2 (14 1/2 oz.) cans vegetable broth

1 1/2 cups water

2 precooked 1- to 1 1/2-pound Dungeness crabs in the shell, cracked into pieces suitable for picking

Pickled ginger, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a large wok or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the shrimp shells, lemongrass, gingerroot, and garlic and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until the herbs give off their odor and shrimp shells turn opaque, stirring frequently. Add mirin, vegetable stock, and water and bring to a boil. Turn down heat, cover pan, and simmer 10 minutes. Remove broth from heat and pour broth through a fine-meshed strainer, pressing solids with a spoon to squeeze out all the juice. Discard solids.

2. Return broth to wok and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the spot shrimp and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until shrimp just turn pink. With a slotted spoon, remove shrimp to a bowl and reserve.

3. Add the crab pieces to the broth and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until crab is warmed through, stirring occasionally to redistribute. Add shrimp to the pan and remove from heat.

4. To serve, divide seafood and broth among individual bowls and garnish with pickled ginger.

Serves 4 as an entrée; 6 as an appetizer

Curried Apples with Cider Cream

Wine Varietal: Late-Harvest Riesling

Serves 4 to 6

Combining several varieties of heirloom apples makes the most flavorful apple compote, crisp, or pie. The touch of curry powder warms the spirit on cool autumn days.

3 large, crisp, heirloom apples, about 1 1/2 lbs., preferably a mix of several hardy varieties such as Braeburn, Granny Smith, Gravenstein, Fuji, Pippin, or Criterion

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon mild curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons golden raisins, optional

1.To prepare the apples, rinse and pat dry but do not peel. Core the apples, cut into quarters, and cut the quarters into bite-size pieces.

2. Melt the butter in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the curry powder, cinnamon, and allspice and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the spices give off their aroma. Add the sugar and raisins and mix well, then add the apples and stir until they are covered with the sugar/spice syrup. Cover and cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until apples are tender but not mushy, stirring occasionally.

3. To serve, place apples in individual dessert dishes and top with cider cream.

Cider Cream

Makes 1 1/4 cups sauce

1 cup good-quality apple cider or 1/4 cup apple juice concentrate, defrosted

1 pint whipping cream

1. Bring the apple cider to a boil in a small saucepan. Cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until mixture is reduced to about 1/4 cup. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

2. Beat whipping cream until stiff, then fold in cider (or apple juice concentrate, if using) until thoroughly mixed. Keep refrigerated until ready to use.

Seafood Strudel

Wine Varietal: Sparkling Wine or Champagne

Serves 6

For years, this phyllo-wrapped seafood extravaganza has formed the centerpiece for my New Year’s Eve buffet. Brimming with bay scallops and spot prawns (or shrimp), the strudel makes an elegant and impressive presentation, yet goes together quickly once the ingredients are prepped. For a phyllo-dough preparation, it’s lowfat (just one-and-one-half teaspoons of fat per serving!) and full of flavor; the scallops and shrimp form a light “cream” sauce as they cook in the lacy dough. Pair it with a good Northwest Sauvignon Blanc and note how the tarragon (king of the herbs, according to the French) and the anise-flavored Ouzo pick up the herbaceous notes in the wine, while the acidity in the Sauv Blanc cuts through the buttery notes in the phyllo. Just be sure to serve it immediately after it is cooked, as this is one dish that doesn’t reheat well. In keeping with the winter holiday season when I make the strudel, I like to serve it with a simple green salad tossed with a light vinaigrette and garnished with grapefruit segments and toasted almonds. Simply steamed broccoli or Brussels sprouts work well, too. Don’t forget a glass (or three!) of bubbly!

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup diced carrots

1/2 cup chopped white or yellow onion

3/4 pound rinsed, dried fresh spinach leaves, blanched (See Cook’s Hint, below) and squeezed very dry or 1 package (10 ounces) frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed very dry

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon, plus extra sprigs, for garnish, or 2 teaspoons dried tarragon, crumbled

3/4 pound Alaskan spot prawns or medium shrimp, rinsed, shelled, deveined, and cut in half lengthwise

3/4 pound bay scallops, rinsed and patted dry

1/2 cup homemade unseasoned dry bread crumbs (See Cook’s Hint, below) or storebought unseasoned dry bread crumbs

1 tablespoon Ouzo, Pernod, or other good-quality anise-flavored liqueur

6 sheets phyllo dough, thawed and covered with a damp kitchen towel to keep them from drying out

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots and onion and cook 5 to 7 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender-crisp, stirring occasionally.

3. Add the spinach, salt, and tarragon and stir constantly, until the spinach and vegetables are well mixed and the tarragon begins to give off its aroma, about 1 minute.

4. Gently stir in the spot prawns, scallops, 1/4 cup of the bread crumbs, and the Ouzo. Immediately remove the skillet from the heat, but continue stirring until the scallops begin to turn white on the outside, 1 to 2 minutes more. Reserve the seafood filling at room temperature while you prepare the phyllo dough.

5. Place a large piece of parchment paper on a clean, dry work surface. Place one sheet of the phyllo in the center of the parchment and dot lightly with butter. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of the remaining bread crumbs. Continue this process, layering the phyllo, until all the phyllo and bread crumbs are used (a small amount of melted butter should remain).

6. Starting with the long side of the phyllo, spoon the reserved seafood filling to within 1 inch of the long edge and the side edges. The seafood should cover about half of the remaining rectangle. Beginning with the filled side, roll the dough jelly-roll fashion, using the parchment paper as a guide and a sling. Once rolled, tuck in the ends to seal. Again using the parchment as a sling, transfer the roll to the prepared baking sheet, placing the strudel seam side down. Brush with the remaining butter.

7. Bake the strudel 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then slice on the diagonal into 6 pieces. Arrange the slices like a pinwheel on a large platter and serve family style, or place on individual dinner plates. Garnish with fresh tarragon.

Cook’s Hints: To blanch the spinach, plunge the leaves into boiling water for 15 to 30 seconds, or until they turn bright green and wilt slightly. Immediately transfer to an ice bath to stop the cooking process. To make unseasoned dry bread crumbs, place a single layer of white or whole-wheat bread slices on a baking sheet and bake at 300°F for about 10 minutes, or until the bread turns light brown and dries completely, turning once. Allow the bread to cool, then place it in a food processor or blender and process until the crumbs reach the desired texture.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Tarragon-Tinged Sole Fillets

Wine Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

One afternoon, after trolling the fish stands at the Pike Place Market for the freshest catch of the day, I brought home a generous serving of glistening Petrale Sole fillets and had to figure out what to do with a fish that, frankly, I rarely cook. So with a small bag of good-quality, sea-salt-studded potato chips at the ready, I let my imagination run wild and created the following loosely constructed “recipe.”

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and set aside.

2. Rinse and thoroughly pat dry about one-and-one-half pounds of petrale sole fillets.

3. Mix one-half cup each crushed good-quality potato chips with one-half cup of panko (Japanese) bread crumbs. Add about two tablespoons of freshly chopped tarragon, a dash of cayenne, and salt to taste (you might not need any at all, depending on the salt level in the chips). Pour onto a dinner plate and spread out into an even layer.

4. In a medium mixing bowl, with a fork or a whisk, stir together one large egg and two or three tablespoons of milk. Dredge the sole fillets through the egg wash and pat in the crumbs.

5. Place about one tablespoon of unsalted butter on the foil-lined baking sheet. Place the baking sheet in the oven and allow the butter to melt and turn light brown. Watch the oven carefully and do not allow the butter to burn or it will be bitter.

6. Arrange the fish fillets without crowding over the baking sheet and cook seven to 10 minutes, or until the fish just flakes and the crust is crispy. Do not turn the sole fillets during cooking.

7. Divide the fish among four or six dinner plates (depending on appetites!) and serve immediately.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Spicy-Red Mussels

Wine Varietal: Cabernet Franc

Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer

Found the world over and grown commercially in the Pacific Northwest, mussels are plentiful, inexpensive, versatile, and easy to cook. Local Penn Cove and Mediterranean mussels are especially appealing.

2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded just before cooking

1/2 cup dry white wine or water

2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 teaspoon minced jalapeño pepper or 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, crumbled

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup minced plum tomatoes

1/4 cup firmly packed unseasoned soft bread crumbs (See Cook’s Hint, below)

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley, plus extra parsley sprigs for garnish

1. In a large stockpot or Dutch oven with a lid, combine the mussels, water, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, cover, and cook until the mussels open, 5 to 7 minutes. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to redistribute the mussels. With a slotted spoon, remove the mussels that have opened, and continue cooking the remaining mussels 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove the open mussels and discard any that do not open.

2. If desired, strain the mussel liquid through several thicknesses of dampened cheesecloth and save for use in another recipe. When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the shells and reserve. Break each shell into two half shells and save a fourth of the shells, choosing the largest and most attractive ones. Evenly space the shells on a baking sheet, and arrange two mussels in each half shell. Set aside the baking sheet while preparing the filling. Preheat the broiler and arrange the oven rack so that it is 3 to 4 inches from the heat source.

3. In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, jalapeño, and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the tomatoes, bread crumbs, cheese, and parsley. Divide the stuffing among the mussels, pressing down so that it forms a layer over the shellfish. Broil until the filling is warmed through and lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes.

4. To serve, place the mussels on a large communal platter or divide among individual plates. Garnish with parsley sprigs.

Cook’s Hint: To make unseasoned soft bread crumbs, tear a slice of white or whole wheat bread into chunks, place in a food processor, and process until crumbs form. The crumbs can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week; in the freezer, tightly wrapped, they keep for about six months.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Wild Mushroom Butter with Crostini

Wine Varietal: Pinot Noir

Makes 1 1/2 cups

In the spring and fall, Northwest forests burst into life with wild mushrooms sporting lyrical names—chanterelles, morels, hedgehogs, black trumpets. When paired with sweet butter, a touch of garlic, and a hint of Cognac, their musky flavor makes a distinctive appetizer dip.

1/2 pound fresh wild Northwest mushrooms, such as chanterelles, morels, black trumpets, hedgehogs, and/or porcini, or a mixture of several varieties

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and cut into thin slices

2 teaspoons minced fresh marjoram or 1 teaspoon dried marjoram, crumbled

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons Cognac or dry Sherry (optional)

1. Wipe the mushrooms with a soft-bristled brush to remove any traces of dirt or pine needles, then chop them coarsely.

2. Melt 1/4 cup of the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat and add the mushrooms and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mushrooms absorb the butter and begin to shrink, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the marjoram, salt, and pepper, stirring well. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms shrink and the garlic is tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the mushrooms from heat and allow to cool.

4. Place the remaining 1/2 cup butter in a food processor or blender and pulse briefly. Add the mushrooms, pan juices, and Cognac and pulse until the mixture is well blended but the mushrooms still have a bit of texture. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

5. Scoop the mushroom butter into an attractive ramekin or bowl, smooth the surface, cover, and refrigerate 1 hour or, preferably, overnight, to allow the flavors to meld.

6.  Remove the mushroom butter from the refrigerator 1/2 hour before serving. Prepare the crostini. Place the ramekin in the center of a large plate or platter and surround with the crostini.

Cook’s Hint: Toss leftover butter with hot, cooked pasta; melt over cooked fish, pork, or chicken; or freeze for up to six months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight before using.

Crostini

1 narrow loaf French or Italian bread, sliced 1/4-inch thick

1. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and place 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Remove from the oven and serve warm or at room temperature.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Merry Berry Medley

Wine Varietal: Raspberry or Blackberry Fruit Wine

Serves 6

Berry season runs long and strong in the Northwest, beginning with small, sweet local strawberries in late spring and ending with local cranberries in the fall. A mix of these sweet gems sprinkled with a crunchy-oat topping, baked, and served warm from the oven epitomizes the bounty of summer.

4 cups mixed berries, such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries

1/2 to 3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

3/4 cup quick-cooking oats

1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon allspice

Pinch salt

1/4 cup butter, room temperature and cut into small chunks

Strawberry ice cream or frozen yogurt (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 6-cup baking dish or casserole. In a mixing bowl, gently stir together the berries, 1/2 cup of the granulated sugar, the lemon juice, vanilla, and tapioca. Taste and add remaining 1/4 cup sugar if needed. Let stand 15 minutes, then pour fruit into baking dish.

2. Mix together oats, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, allspice, and salt in a mixing bowl. With a pastry cutter or your hands work butter into dry ingredients until crumbly. Sprinkle topping evenly over the berries.

3. Cook crumble for 30 to 40 minutes, or until top is golden brown and fruit is bubbly at the edges.

4. To serve, spoon crumble into individual bowls and top with ice cream.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Seared Albacore Tuna with Feta, Olives, and Tomato

Varietal: Pinot Noir

Serves 4

This recipe comes from the culinary department at King Estate Winery in southern Oregon. It makes use of one of the Northwest’s best summertime catches—albacore tuna—in a Mediterranean-leaning sauce redolent with salty/tangy feta cheese, Roma tomatoes, kalamata olives, and fresh oregano. Pair it with the earthy/smoky/spicy flavors of your favorite Oregon Pinot Noir.

4 tablespoons olive oil

4 (6- to 7-ounce) albacore tuna steaks, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

Kosher salt

Freshly cracked black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1/2 pound fresh spinach leaves

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

8 plum tomatoes, cored and chopped

1 cup (about 6 ounces) kalamata olives, pitted and halved lengthwise

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons fresh chopped oregano, or 2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Greek, crumbled

6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the tuna steaks lightly on both sides with salt and pepper.

2. When the oil just begins to smoke, place the fish in the skillet without crowding and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Place the tuna in the oven and cook 4 to 5 minutes (for medium rare), or to desired doneness.

3. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the garlic and shallots and cook, stirring often, until the shallots are translucent but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the spinach a handful or two at a time, turning with kitchen tongs and adding more spinach as it cooks down, until all the spinach is lightly wilted. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and the lemon juice.

4. Divide the spinach among 4 warmed dinner plates. Remove the fish from the oven and arrange 1 tuna steak over each bed of spinach.

5. Working quickly, return the hot tuna skillet to the stove over medium-high heat and cook the plum tomatoes, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes begin to break down, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the olives, white wine, and oregano and cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine is reduced by half, 1 to 2 minutes.

6. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the feta. Spoon the sauce around the tuna and serve immediately.