Holiday Crab Boils

Northwesterners love the region’s native crab—Dungeness—for its rich, sweet taste; big nuggets of meat; and large body size. Many of us make Dungies (as they are fondly nicknamed) the focus of our Christmas-Eve suppers by boiling them and serving with simple sauces such as Aïoli (garlic mayonnaise), spicy cocktail sauce, or melted butter. The two crab boil mixes below are among my favorites.

Spicy Crab Boil

Although the sweet, distinctive meat of the Dungeness crab is a joy to eat plain and unadulterated, sometimes it’s fun to spice it up a bit, as in this piquant version of the traditional crab boil.

3 cups water
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
1 precooked 2- to 2 1/2-pound Dungeness crab in the shell
In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, bring water, mustard seed, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf to a boil and add crab. Turn down heat to a simmer and cook 3 to 5 minutes, turning crab once.
Drain crab and serve immediately.
Serves 1 as an entrée; 2 as an appetizer

Tarragon Crab Boil

This elegant poaching liquid, infused with the essence of anise-flavored tarragon, takes the already superlative Dungeness crab to new heights. It can also be used to boil shell-on Alaskan spot prawns or shrimp or as a poaching liquid for a variety of fish fillets.

2 cups water
1 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon dried tarragon, crumbled
1 precooked 2- to 2 1/2-pound Dungeness crab in the shell
In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, bring water, white wine, and tarragon to a boil and add crab. Turn down heat to a simmer and cook 3 to 5 minutes, turning crab once.
Drain crab and serve immediately.
Serves 1 as an entrée; 2 as an appetizer

Cook’s Note: The crab feed is a Northwest tradition that, besides taking place during the winter holidays, can take place on the beach, in the backyard, or in the privacy of one’s home. Crab feeds are informal affairs where newspapers thrown on the picnic table take the place of tablecloths, while paper napkins (and lots of them) stand in for the more fancy cloth. Dungeness crab, the star of the show, can be served chilled or (as I prefer) warmed in a spicy or herb-infused crab boil, as in the recipes given above. Popular side dishes include sourdough bread and tossed green salad (the bare minimum), and/or cole slaw, baked beans, potato salad, and garlic bread for the more ambitious. Live music and dancing, along with lots of cold beer and crisp white Northwest wines are popular additions to any crab feed.

Grasslands Lamb Stew

Chunks of grass-fed lamb and lentils meld into a hearty, distinctive stew when simmered with vegetables, dried cherries, and a fruity Washington state Merlot. Using lamb sirloin, although a more costly cut of meat than lamb neck or shoulder, ensures meltingly tender results.

8 whole cloves

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 to 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

1 pound lamb sirloin, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 white or yellow onion, cut in half and quartered

2 carrots, cut on the diagonal into 1/4-inch slices

3 cloves garlic, peeled and halved

1/2 cup brown or green lentils, rinsed and picked over for debris

2 tomatoes, about 3/4 pound, cored and chopped OR 1 can (14

1/2 ounces) whole tomatoes, chopped

1 1/2 cups good-quality, fruity red wine, such as Washington state Merlot or 1 1/2 cups beef broth

1 heaping tablespoon dried cherries or cranberries

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme OR 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

Pinch of ground cinnamon

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 servings cooked white or brown rice or egg noodles

Instructions

Make a bouquet garni by cutting a 4-by-4-inch piece of cheesecloth and placing the cloves and peppercorns in the middle. Gather up the sides, tie with kitchen twine, and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the lamb. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, or until the lamb is browned on all sides. Remove lamb from pan and reserve. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of oil remaining in the pan or, if little remains, add the remaining tablespoon of oil.

Add onions, carrots, garlic, and bouquet garni to pan and cook 5 to 7 minutes, or until tender-crisp, stirring occasionally. Adjust heat if the vegetables start to stick. Add lamb, lentils, tomatoes, wine, dried cherries, bay leaf, thyme, and cinnamon. Stir, bring to a low simmer, and cover stockpot. Cook for 1 1/4 hours, or until meat and lentils are tender. Do not allow mixture to boil, or meat will toughen. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, remove bouquet garni and bay leaf and spoon stew over cooked rice or noodles.

Serves 4 to 6

Butternut Squash and Oregon Blue Cheese Lasagna

Kaspar and Nancy Donier, co-owners of Kaspar’s restaurant (www.kaspars.com) on Queen Anne, a delightful neighborhood just North of the Pike Place Market, are long-time Market supporters. Chef Kaspar’s vegetarian lasagna is an intriguing mix of meltingly tender winter squash, lush blue-cheese cream sauce, blanched spinach, and earthy hazelnuts. The ground nutmeg and fresh sage leaves that garnish the casserole infuse the kitchen with enticing aromas as the lasagna is baking, to create a recipe that is the essence of autumn.

Room temperature unsalted butter, for greasing the pan

2 to 2 1/2 pounds butternut squash

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

1 1/2 cups (about 8 ounces) crumbled Oregon blue cheese

Pinch of kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning

Pinch of ground nutmeg

4 to 6 fresh pasta sheets or 8 dried lasagna noodles (about 7 ounces) (See Cook’s Hint below)

1 cup whole-milk, part-skim, or fat-free ricotta cheese

8 ounces baby spinach leaves, blanched and coarsely chopped

12 fresh sage leaves

1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts

Preheat oven to 350° F. Butter an 8-by-12-inch baking pan and reserve.

To prepare the squash, cut off the ends, cut the squash in half lengthwise, remove the seeds, then peel the halves from top to bottom with a sharp vegetable peeler or a small, sharp paring knife. Cut the halves lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

Brush a baking sheet with the olive oil, arrange squash in a single layer on the baking sheet, and cook 30 to 35 minutes, or until soft.

Make sauce by bringing whipping cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce heat to simmer and cook 3 minutes, watching the cream carefully and stirring occasionally so it doesn’t boil over. Add 1/2 cup of the crumbled blue cheese, along with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Remove from heat, cover, and reserve.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook fresh pasta sheets for 3 minutes or until al dente. If using dried lasagna noodles, cook according to package instructions. Remove pasta sheets, drain on paper towels, and reserve.

Make filling by mixing the remaining 1 cup blue cheese, ricotta, and spinach. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To assemble lasagna, place one pasta sheet in bottom of reserved baking pan, cutting and arranging the pasta so entire bottom of pan is covered. Layer with one-third of filling, then one-third of squash. Repeat until all the ingredients are used, ending with a sheet of pasta.

Pour sauce evenly over lasagna, arrange sage leaves on top, and sprinkle with hazelnuts.

Bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until golden brown on top and heated all the way through.

To serve, cut into rectangles and divide among individual plates.

Serves 8

Cook’s Hint: Fresh pasta sheets vary in size. You will need enough pasta to cover four 8-by-12-inch layers. If you inadvertently buy extra, it can be sliced to the thickness you desire, cooked, and tossed into soups or used as a base for pasta entrées.

German Apple Cake

The recipe for this dense, moist cake, chock-full of grated apples and walnuts, was given to me by Pat and Jim Rankin, the original owners of Woodring Orchards
(www.woodringnorthwest.com). It is best made at the height of apple season with new-crop apples, although it’s so tasty, you’ll want to make and eat it year-round.

2 large eggs

1/2 cup vegetable or canola oil

2 cups granulated sugar

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

4 cups grated apples, medium grate (about 3 large, firm apples, such as Fuji or Granny Smith)

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

Cream Cheese Icing (Recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Beat eggs and oil in a large mixing bowl until pale yellow and creamy, then add sugar, flour, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, and vanilla. Stir until well blended, then add apples that have been drained of any juice that accumulates during grating. Mix well and add walnuts.

Pour dough into prepared baking pan and cook 35 to 45 minutes, or until cake shrinks from sides of pan and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Cool cake on a wire rack. When completely cool, ice cake with Cream Cheese Icing, cut into slices, and enjoy.

Serves 12

Blueberry-Peach Cobbler

Of all the recipes in the first edition of the Pike Place Market Cookbook, this was one of the most popular, widely reprinted, and frequently requested. It’s easy to see why, for this is a magical dessert. The dough starts out on the bottom of the casserole dish, then travels to the top during baking. It’s full of bubbling-hot fruit, and so good it doesn’t even need a topping, although whipped cream or ice cream are delicious additions if you’re feeling indulgent.

1/2 cup unsalted butter or margarine

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 cup whole milk

2 cups sliced fresh peaches

1 1/2 to 2 cups fresh blueberries
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Get out a 2 1/2-quart baking dish.
While the oven preheats, melt butter in the baking dish in the oven, then set aside. Combine flour, 3/4 cup of the sugar, and baking powder; add milk and stir just until blended. Spoon batter over the butter in the baking dish, but do not stir.
Combine fruit and the remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Spoon over batter, but do not stir. Bake 45 to 55 minutes, or until fruit is bubbly and crust is golden brown. Serve warm.

Simple Soy Glaze for Summer Salmon

Many Northwest cooks have devised a special sauce or glaze they use time and again when grilling or broiling fresh seafood fillets and steaks. This is mine—a super-simple glaze (only five ingredients!) that is superb for summer salmon on the grill, but also so versatile you can use it on almost any fish or shellfish you choose.

1 tablespoon light cooking oil, such as canola, safflower, corn, soy, or vegetable

1 tablespoon soy sauce or low-sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon honey, brown sugar, or maple syrup

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 1/2 pounds salmon fillets, bones removed, rinsed, drained, patted dry, and cut into four 6-ounce pieces

Preheat the broiler.

In a small bowl, mix together oil, soy sauce, honey, and mustard. Add horseradish and blend thoroughly.
Lightly oil a broiling pan with a rack or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Place salmon fillets on rack and brush lightly with the glaze.

Broil 3 to 4 inches from heat source for 3 minutes, then brush fillets again. If the fillets start to brown too much, move pan 4 to 6 inches from heat source. Continue brushing at 3-minute intervals and cook until salmon reaches desired doneness.

Makes 1/4 cup

Cook’s Hint: Now comes the really fun, creative part of this recipe. If you don’t like horseradish, you can substitute freshly grated gingerroot, Chinese five-spice powder, Japanese seven-spice seasoning (shichimi togarashi), or hot chili oil for an Asian flair. Cajun blackening mix creates a Southern taste. Add the alternative seasonings a little at a time, until you reach the level of spiciness or hotness you prefer.

Chicken With Cherry-Wine Sauce

This is a recipe I’ve made time and again not only because it’s easy, healthy, and impressive enough for guests, but because it showcases two of Washington state’s finest products–Washington wine and Bing cherries grown and processed in the Yakima Valley. It comes from Pamela Auld, co-owner of Chukar Cherry Company (www.chukar.com), which has a permanent stand in the Pike Place Market’s Main Arcade.

1 to 2 cups white, brown, or wild rice

1 bottle (750 milliliter) good-quality red wine (Washington state Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon recommended)

1 cup Chukar dried Bing cherries

6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Pinch of granulated sugar

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Dried rosemary, crumbled

Cook rice as directed on package. (Cook 1 or 2 cups depending on whether you want to serve 1/2-cup or 1-cup servings.)

While rice is cooking, pour wine into large nonreactive saucepan and add dried cherries. Bring to a boil, then turn down heat and simmer cherry-wine mixture about 15 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced by half and cherries lose their wrinkles and plump.

While cherries and wine are simmering, sauté chicken pieces in a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat, using a minimum of olive oil. Chicken pieces should be white and completely cooked throughout, but still tender.

When cherry-wine mixture is reduced by half, remove it from the heat, add butter and sugar, and swirl until blended.

To serve, place chicken pieces on top of cooked rice and pour cherry-wine sauce over the top. Vegetarian eaters can enjoy this dish, too, if the sauce alone (no chicken) is served over the rice along with steamed or sautéed vegetables. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and rosemary (you can do this in the kitchen, or your family or guests can do it themselves at the table).

Serves 6 to 8

Cook’s Hint: Pam Auld suggests that to vary the aroma and flavor of this dish, add a small amount of fresh rosemary (in place of the dried) and white pepper (instead of black) to the finished dish.

Potato Salad Puttanesca

Make this Italian-leaning salad in the early spring, when new potatoes first start making their appearance at local farmers’ markets. The recipe comes from Catherine Stanford, who has worked in property management at the Pike Place Market (www.pikeplacemarket.org) for over a decade. Such exposure has given her ready access to all sorts of fresh produce and specialty products, which has extended her passion for good cooking. Sometimes she even dreams of writing her own cookbook!

2 pounds whole tiny new potatoes, scrubbed
8 large sun-dried tomatoes (not oil-packed)
2 tablespoons olive oil
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium red onion, chopped
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
4 ounces (about 2/3 cup) kalamata olives, pits removed, coarsely chopped
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Crushed red pepper flakes
2 hard-boiled large eggs, quartered, for garnish
6 fresh basil leaves, chiffonade (See Cook’s Hint below)
Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add potatoes, cover, and cook 15 to 20 minutes, or just until tender. Drain water, loosely cover potatoes with a clean kitchen towel to keep them warm and soak up excess water, cover pot, and reserve.
While potatoes are boiling, place sun-dried tomatoes in a small bowl, cover with hot water, and set aside for 10 minutes. Drain tomatoes, discard water, mince, and reserve.
In a medium skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat and cook garlic and onions 5 to 7 minutes, or until softened, stirring often.
Place onion in a medium mixing bowl along with the 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, capers, reserved sun-dried tomatoes, and olives. Mix well, then season to taste with salt, black pepper, and pepper flakes. Reserve dressing.
Cut warm potatoes into bite-sized pieces and add to a large mixing bowl. Toss gently with reserved dressing, being careful not to break up potatoes. Let salad rest 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature to allow flavors to meld, then divide among individual salad plates, garnish with quartered eggs, and sprinkle with basil. If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate the salad, allowing it to come to room temperature before serving.
Serves 6

Cook’s Hint: To chiffonade, pull basil leaves from the stem, stack them neatly one on top of the other, and roll them tightly like a cigar. Using a very sharp knife, cut the leaves into thin slivers. Unroll the basil slivers and fluff.

Grilled Halibut with Lemon Herb Splash

Seafood and citrus form a classic pairing, but the flavor of each is enhanced in this boldly flavored, zestful “splash” (similar to a vinaigrette for seafood) devised by Seattle’s best-known culinary diva, Kathy Casey, co-owner with her husband John of Dish D’ Lish (www.kathycasey.com), located in the Pike Place Market just north of Rachel the Pig. Chef Kathy advises that if fresh halibut is not available, sea scallops or peeled, deveined shrimp threaded on rosemary sprigs or wooden skewers make delicious alternatives. If using skewers, be sure to soak them in water for half an hour before grilling.

1 1/2 pounds fresh halibut steaks or fillets, rinsed, drained, patted dry, and cut into four 6-ounce pieces

Vegetable oil as needed

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Lemon Herb Splash (Recipe follows)

Preheat the grill or broiler. Lightly rub halibut on each side with a little oil and season with salt and pepper.

Cook fish for approximately 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on thickness and doneness desired.

To serve, place halibut on individual plates and drizzle each piece of fish with 1 tablespoon or more of Lemon Herb Splash. Pass remaining “Splash” on the side.

Serves 4

Lemon Herb Splash

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 teaspoons minced fresh lemon zest

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh basil

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

In a small bowl or glass jar with a tight-fitting lid, mix together all the ingredients until well blended. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Makes 1/2 cup sauce, enough to top 4 to 6 pieces of fish

Cook’s Hint: To add a nice, light smoke flavor, soak a few wood chips in water and throw them on the coals just before placing the fish on the grill.

Zuppa del Frutti di Mare (Seafood Soup)

Seafood soups and stews can sometimes be difficult to make, but this one defies the odds with only eight easy-to-find ingredients. The addition of saffron gives the soup an intriguing musky flavor and pleasing orange-red color that belies its humble beginnings and allows the goodness of the seafood to shine through. The recipe comes from DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine, an amazing resource for anything and everything Italian, and a cornerstone of the Pike Place Market since 1928.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 can (12 ounce) whole Italian tomatoes
1 1/2 cups homemade chicken stock OR 3/4 cup canned chicken broth plus 3/4 cup water
Pinch of saffron
2 pounds mussels (scrubbed and debearded just before cooking) or clams (scrubbed) OR 1 pound shrimp (rinsed, shells cut down the back with kitchen shears, and deveined) or scallops (rinsed and patted dry)
1 pound seafood fillets, such as halibut or salmon fillets, rinsed, skinned, and cut into 1/4-pound pieces
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Four 1/2-inch baguette or rustic bread slices, grilled or broiled
1 clove garlic, peeled and halved
Heat butter and olive oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallot and cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until softened but not browned, stirring frequently. Add wine and cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until reduced slightly, stirring constantly.

Add tomatoes and their juice, crushing the tomatoes with your hands or the back of a large spoon. Add chicken stock and saffron, stir well, and bring stock to a simmer.

Add seafood to pan, cover, and simmer 5 to 7 minutes, or until fish is opaque and shellfish opens. Remove any mussels or clams that do not open. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, divide the seafood and broth among individual bowls. Top with baguette slices that have been rubbed with the garlic clove.

Serves 4