Food Tours in Vancouver

August 3, 2012

There’s nothing like a good tour to get the travel juices flowing.

And food- and fine beverage-loving visitors to Vancouver have it better than ever, thanks to a plethora of tours that offer a “taste” of this glorious city.

Whether you prefer to tour and taste under the guidance of a professional chef or catch and cook your own meal, Vancouver’s diverse array of culinary tours offers something for everyone.

• Experience Vancouver’s world-renowned street-food scene on the Tour Guys’ Eat Your Cart Out Tour. Sample tasty bites like southern pulled pork barbecue, Japanese-inspired hot dogs, pan-Asian tapas and more. The two hour tour costs $35 per person (plus tax).

• Don your headset for Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts’ “Plugged In” Market Tour of Granville Island. Led by a chef-instructor, guests explore and taste what’s been grown, fished, and cooked fresh in this bustling public marketplace. Participants learn historical tidbits and recipe tips along the way. The 1.5-hour tour costs $40 per person (plus tax).

• Taste your way through Vancouver’s Chinatown neighborhood – the third largest in North America – with Edible Canada’s Chinatown Tour. During this two-hour tour, guests learn about the neighborhood’s rich history, while sampling authentic eats like barbeque meats, exotic fruits, teas, and baked goods. Tour costs $40 (plus tax). Add on a mouthwatering dim sum lunch for an additional $25 (plus tax).

• Thirsty? Explore Gastown’s explosive craft-beer scene on the Gastown Craft Beer ‘n Bites Tour, hosted by Vancouver Food Tour. Led by a passionate beer educator, the tour allows beer aficionados to enjoy tastings at four destinations – each offering a unique aspect of beer – along with tasty, hand-picked food pairings. The three-hour tour costs $75 (per person).

Swallow Tail Tours’ Catch and Cook Crab Tour is the perfect option for those who want to catch their own dinner. Led by a fishing guide and chef, guests learn how to catch and cook Dungeness crab and are rewarded afterward with a mouthwatering beachside lunch. The three-hour tour costs $139 (plus tax).

• Tantalize your taste buds on Taste Vancouver Food Tours’ Gastown Tour. Led by “Gassy Jack,” guests learn about the history and culture of this historic neighborhood while visiting 10 of Gassy’s favourite eateries. Highlights include lobster mac-and-cheese, West Coast crab cakes, pulled pork, and more. The two-hour tour costs $39 (plus tax).

• Taste your way through Vancouver’s diverse neighborhoods by bike with Cycle City Tours’ Food Tour. Highlights include tasty eats and historical tidbits in neighborhoods such as Granville Island, Yaletown, Chinatown, Gastown, and Coal Harbour. The four-hour tour costs $99 per person.

• Experience five of downtown Vancouver’s popular eateries with Vancouver Foodie Tours’ Guilty Pleasures Gourmet Tour. Led by a passionate foodie, the tour includes gourmet tastings accompanied by wine, beer, and sake pairings. The three-hour tour costs $69 (plus tax).

Hip, Hip, Hooray as Victoria, BC, Celebrates 150 Years

June 8, 2012

I’ve written a lot about  Victoria, British Columbia, The Fairmont Empress Hotel, and our favorite restaurants there, both for this Northwest Notes blog and in my NW Edge column for Wine Press Northwest, because it’s simply one of the most fun-to-visit cities in the entire Pacific Northwest.

Now it’s time to give a “hip, hip, hooray” to Victoria as the grand old Dame celebrates her 150th anniversary!

As you might expect, there are lots of events and activities planned to help Victoria–a city that’s such a delightful blend of Old-World charm and New-World experiences–celebrate such a happy and important milestone.

Here are some tips touted in a recent press release sent out by our friends at Tourism British Columbia. There’s also a complete list of 150-anniversary events on the Tourism Victoria website.

Eat and Drink: This is a city of food fests, and yearly gatherings, including Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine, prove delectable showcases for local nibbles and vintage pours. On the flip side, street eats are no less appealing, thanks to tasty fish tacones and crispy tempura pickles at Red Fish Blue Fish and spicy prawns and Baja-style fish tacos at Puerto Vallarta Amigos.

Taking Tea: For classic pours, Victoria is the place to take tea. While teahouses are sprinkled throughout the city’s neighbourhoods, an iconic cuppa is a certainty paired with signature scones and sweet treats in The Fairmont Empress’s own tea lobby. For something a tad bit stronger, savour a classic tea cocktail on the Empress veranda, cool your heels over a cold one at Canada’s oldest brewpub, Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub, or take it a little bit further afield for premier gin sips at Victoria Spirits and robust apple pours at Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse.

Sleeping Well: Sweet slumber is your reward after a day’s celebration. Start with cosy quarters at Fairholme Manor and count sheep in one of six elegantly appointed rooms. For an even bigger suite selection, the Inn at Laurel Point promises waterfront views and luxurious Silk Road amenities, while the grand, yet-to-be-unveiled Oak Bay Beach Hotel, near Oak Bay Village, has locals and visitors alike counting the sleeps until its summer debut. Back at the harbour, The Fairmont Empress beckons with an overnight that is at once thoroughly modern and distinctly reminiscent of the city’s historic beginnings. Like Victoria itself.

Daring Do: Pedal by pedal, Victoria has earned its moniker as the “Cycling Capital of Canada.” See for yourself why more people two-wheel here than anywhere else in the country with a cycle along the famed Galloping Goose Trail, or log a few miles, and seek like-minded souls, at the Victoria International Cycling Festival. Prefer water sports? Cruise in a kayak along the city’s Inner Harbour (tip: Grilligan’s BBQ “paddle through” serves up local handmade sausages), try your hand at stand up paddling among the Harbour Ferries or take a guided sunset tour with Ocean River Adventures.

Getting Around: Hop along the harbour and let an H20 Taxi take you there; call ahead and these alternative-transport captains will pick you up. For land-locked travel, choose instead to wander through Canada’s oldest Chinatown, peeking in at quaint Fan Tan Alley shops or stopping for a sip of Dragon Tears green or the limited-edition Victoria 150 Tribute Tea at Silk Road’s Tasting Bar.

Perky Performances: This summer season is sure to be a blast — from a performance point of view. Actors, acrobats and all-around entertainers will bring their best during the Victoria International Buskers Festival, while the annual Victoria Symphony Splash, with its orchestra suspended on a floating barge in the Inner Harbour, will have you swaying to the sweet sounds of Sondheim. If birthday bashes are more your style, there are plenty of 150th-themed festivities on the roster throughout the year: 57, to be exact.

Walk the Walk: Beyond the celebration, you can take to the streets in this infinitely walkable city, and duck into Victoria’s nooks and crannies with Discover the Past’s guided historical tours. Wanna go it alone? Explore neighbourhoods under your own steam and wander through favourites that include the newly revitalized Cook Street Village, a tantalizing must-visit for foodies, and Lower Johnson Street (LoJo, to the locals), a stretch of cute cubbies and savvy shops boasting local, independent designers.

 

View Tourism Vancouver’s Smashing New Destination Video

March 13, 2012

Our friends at Tourism Vancouver released a new destination film, “It’s You. . .Vancouver,” which “is blazing a trail around the globe via social media,” according to a recent press release.

Just two weeks after its official release, “It’s You” received more than 150,000 views in 87 countries worldwide.

The three-minute video incorporates a local band and original song. According to Tourism Vancouver, it’s among the world’s first professionally produced destination films in music video format.

The song is performed by Watasun, a local duo whose music fuses urban beats with traditional folk sounds. Throughout the video, the band performs their catchy tune while making appearances in, near, or atop iconic Vancouver attractions.

You’ll recognize snow-covered Grouse Mountain, an Aquabus ferry, and the newly renovated BC Place Stadium.

I really enjoyed this video showcase of one of my favorite cities in all the world and hope you will, too!

Best Dishes from Carmel

February 14, 2012

Over Christmas week, we spent four days in the Napa Valley and four days in Carmel. Carmel is our spiritual home, a place we often dream of living in, but sadly, could never afford.

Anyway, it is so fun to visit. And whenever we are there, we have our favorite restos we frequent time and again.

One of those is Grasing’s, chef-owned and operated and a favorite among locals and visitors alike with a great menu. We always begin with Kurt’s Crab-Stuffed Artichoke with Lemon Aïoli. It’s a taste of California that can’t be beat!

Next comes the chef’s signature California Red Abalone Doré. It’s served in the beautiful shells with a generous amount of both shellfish and salad. YUM!

This year marked our 30th wedding anniversary, so once our server found out, she gifted us with an Eggnog Crème Brülée. Since eggnog is one of my favorite flavors, and pudding is one of Spencer’s favorite foods, we were both in dessert heaven!

Another Carmel restaurant we’re always drawn to is La Bicyclette. You get a three-course meal ranging in price from 29 to 45 dollars and each dinner includes the same first and second course (Persimmon Tart Tatin with Midnight Moon Fondue and Chicken-Orzo Soup the evening we were there), plus the diner’s choice among four entrées (Pan-Roasted Filet Mignon with Foie Gras Wellington and Asparagus, Slow-Roasted Lamb Roulade, Smoked Serrano Honey-Lacquered Bobwhite Quail, or Pan-Seared Scallops, for example). You can also order à la carte items from the regular menu; dessert is extra, and worth it (more on that below).

Here are La Bicyclette’s amazing Escargots (ordered à la carte so we could stay somewhat on our low-carb lifestyle). What set these apart was the addition of chopped hazelnuts and bread crumbs along with the garlic-y good drawn butter. Ooh-la-la!

Scallops were fresh-off-the-boat, large, and perfectly cooked to still rare in the middle. Root veggies and asparagus, plus a parsnip purée and Chimay Beer sauce rounded out an extraordinary dish.

Dessert is a Chocolate Mousse made for sharing. Not only is it the perfect consistency but there is a generous sprinkling of chopped white, milk, and dark chocolate atop. Talk about gilding the lily!

At Pèpe’s Little Napoli, an Italian restaurant right across the street from La Bicyclette, Spencer and I enjoyed a unique appetizer–Meatballs on a Stick!

For lunch, we make a point to go to Forge in the Forest because (even in late December) we can often sit outside (if it isn’t rainy or windy) and stay warm (thanks to numerous heat lamps that stud the patio).

I always opt for the Balsamic-Grilled Castroville Artichoke with a Wholegrain Mustard Dip (not unlike a very rich aïoli). Artichoke heart is one of my favorite things in the world, that interesting cross between potato and asparagus.

Other places we like to eat in Carmel include A.W. Shucks Cocktail & Oyster Bar, Christopher’s, and Andre’s Bouchée. So many restos, so little time, alas.

From the sublime food in Carmel, here’s the Jack Daniel’s Chicken we had at the San Francisco Airport at TGI Friday’s. It was the best option for people such as us trying to live the low-carb lifestyle (especially after enjoying several desserts, as outlined above!). And actually, it wasn’t too bad, especially since we got to choose our own sides (two veggies). But I always wonder why a food city such as SF doesn’t have better restaurants at its international airport?

Vancouver Hot Chocolate Festival

February 3, 2012

It’s that time of year again. . .for the Vancouver Hot Chocolate Festival, which kicked off last month, and runs until Valentine’s Day.

According to a press release passed along by my friend and colleague, Rhonda May, who’s also the editor of CityFood magazine (online and print) and the Festival’s organizer:

<<This is the second year of the festival, and this time there are double the cafes, shops and food artisans participating — including some amazing newcomers such as Chef David Hawksworth’s Bel Cafe; Chief Thierry Busset’s Thierry Chocolaterie, Patisserie and Cafe; as well as young entrepreneurs like Beta5Chocolates (who are teaming up with The Juice Truck in Gastown).

With 13 venues and 15 chocolate artists offering a range of over 50 off-beat flavours, there will be a hot chocolate style for everyone–from the classic (milk chocolate orange at Gem Chocolates) to the edgy (“The Surprise Flower” at Chocolaterie de la Nouvelle France), to the health-conscious (Vegan Black Sesame at CocoaNymph). Each venue will be offering drinks that were especially created for the Festival, along with edible treats from their regular menus. For example: A Sparkle Cookie at Thomas Haas, a slice of Erin Ireland’s “It’s To Die For” Banana Bread at Bella Gelateria.

New this year is a Photo Tweet-up Contest where Festival goers may post photos of their hot chocolate drinks for a chance to win a $300 value gift basket!

You’ll find information about participants, flavours, the complete calendar, and this year’s charity recipient, The Downtown Eastside Women’s Centre, on the Festival’s official information page.>>

Thanks for the heads up, Rhonda!

Québec City to Montreal

December 2, 2011

Once we got off the Eurodam and were on our own for another day in Québec City, we did more sightseeing on our own and decided to take it easy by having dinner at our hotel, the venerable Chateau Frontenac. It’s a former Canadian Pacific RR property, now Fairmont, whose main dining room, Champlain, is named after the founder of Québec.

A formal and rather stuffy place, we had a strange waiter (at first) who didn’t speak English. Our food was better than the service, but the whole experience was quite a disappointment, especially with when paying high prices characteristic of Old-World-style hotels.

The next morning, bright and early at 7:45, we caught the train from Québec’s downtown station to Montreal.

It was during the train ride that we caught our first glimpses of really brilliant fall foliage colors. Sadly, it was hard to capture much of the brilliant beauty from behind the rain-spotted windows aboard the fast-moving train.

But here’s one shot of the pastoral surroudings.

And a better shot of the leaves.

Once in downtown Montreal at the train station, we asked a railroad worker where to catch a taxi to the hotel. He almost laughed in our faces, since the Fairmont Le Reine Elizabeth is located right above the train station, so it was an easy walk up the escalator to check-in and our beautiful room.

Here’s the city-scape view. The domed building in the foreground is a half-scale-sized copy of St. Peter’s Cathedral in Rome.

Unfortunately, we weren’t nearly as impressed with Montreal as we were with Québec City. The Old Town allowed cars, so wasn’t particularly pedestrian-friendly.

But a few highlight in Montreal included:

Lunch at Dominion Square Taverne.

Spencer’s Roasted Chicken Caesar with Cheddar Dressing (the best Caesar he’s ever had, he told me!).

And my Steamed Mussels, perfect with a crisp glass of French Rosé.

And dinner at the hip, happenin’ Garde Manger, where I enjoyed a sublime Cold Seafood Tower (finally got some PEI mussels!) and Spencer had amazing short ribs.

Dessert was the clincher, though–a Fried Mars Bar à La Mode. Gotta love Canadian cuisine!

And with that, dear readers, I end my diary of our Fall Foliage Cruise.

Wine Tasting in Québec City

November 29, 2011

Uncle Tony’s Pub was the setting for our afternoon wine-and-food-pairing in the Old Town section of Québec City.

While some might think of the phrase “Québec wines” as an oxymoron, we were happy to try to prove them wrong. Here’s some useful background info from the Quebec Wines website:

“There are over 30 wineries in Quebec located in five distinct regions.

“Although grapes have been cultivated in Quebec for centuries, it is only in the last 20 years that local wine production has taken off in a big way.

“Few people outside the region are familiar with Quebec wines because the majority of production is consumed domestically. Many wineries sell out their inventory simply by marketing to visitors of the winery.”

When we arrived at Uncle Tony’s, places had been set up in a back room with three wines and samples of Wild Boar and Venison Paté, Brie Cheese, and dried apricots, along with a basket of sliced bread.

The white wine, Orpailleur Classique, was sourced from one of the original five founding wineries in Québec, Vignoble de L’Orpailleur. Made of 90% Seyval Blanc and 10% Vidal, it was a light-bodied and crisp wine that displayed green-apple aromas and flavors as well as what our wine guide described as “boxwood” notes and a green-bean finish.

Comparing the wine to a Sauvignon Blanc (which was more of a fond wish than actual reality), she suggested we pair it with the raw-milk, Brie-like local cheese.

Orpailleur Rouge, a red blend made from three local varietals, displayed notes of cherry and black currants, and, once again, “boxwood.” It was designed to pair with the paté, and was likened to a California Merlot, Beaujolais Nouveau, or a Spanish or South African red. Hmmm. . .again, wishful thinking.

Les Vergers de la Colline L’Ensorceleuse 2008 Mistelle de Pomme was an intriguing dessert beverage described as an Ice Cider.

The multi-award-winning Ice Cider was produced from a whopping 80 McIntosh apples per each bottle, according to our wine guide. It was very apple-y tasting, with notes of licorice and oak.

It paired okay with the dried apricot, but would have been better with our wine guide’s suggestions–drizzled over a fruit salad or served with a dark chocolate tart.

Incredible Québec City

November 25, 2011

We arrived in Québec City right on time at 8 a.m. and were excited to have an entire day to spend there before returning to the Eurodam for one last dinner prior to disembarkation the next day.

We had scheduled a shore excursion that included a 1 1/2-hour walking tour of the Old Town and a tasting of Québec wines at an atmospheric pub during the afternoon.

So we were on our own all morning, and after several hours of window shopping, we decided to eat lunch al fresco at a famous Old Town restaurant–Le Lapin Sauté–where the patio dining area overlooked a pumpkin-filled plaza.

Here’s the homey interior of Le Lapin Sauté, clearly being enjoyed by locals and tourists alike.

Our Planked Salmon Salads were among the best dishes on the entire trip!  The salmon had a light maple glaze and the greens were very fresh and clean. I’m not usually much of a fennel fan, but the layer of pickled fennel was surprisingly refreshing and formed a fitting contrast to the lovely fatty salmon.

I had a glass of Québec Vidal, a light white varietal that smells and tastes slightly of apples. As you might imagine (since it is so cold with such a short growing season in this new wine-growing region) it was a bit thin with there wasn’t much of a finish.

Québec winemakers might do better to stick to their famous ice wine and hard cider. There were more than half a dozen hard ciders on the menu!

Cruising the Gulf of St. Lawrence

November 22, 2011

After our exciting day in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, we had a relaxing day at sea cruising the Gulf of St. Lawrence on our way to the remote town of Saguenay, in Quebec Province.

We got up at 6:30 this a.m. to see the parade of islands.

Although we had high hopes, you can see that the fall colors were sadly underwhelming. After we returned, we heard from East Coast-based friends that the leaves never did much this year.

Some theorized that the hurricanes forced salt water into the leaves and they didn’t turn; others said there wasn’t a long enough of a cold snap to foster fall colors.

At our next port call, Saguenay, Canada, we were met at the $50-million dock by costumed locals who performed dances and songs as their ancestors might have done. The music reminded me of Zydeco and the costumes looked like American frontiersmen.

We were plied with fresh blueberry pie and frozen maple syrup when we got off the boat. The costumed locals poured the maple syrup on fresh snow so it would harden around wooden sticks, like very tasty, cold lollypops.

The sugar rush allowed us to walk up the hill to the small downtown, which we walked through before heading back to the boat for lunch.

Halifax and Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island

November 18, 2011

Continuing our Fall Foliage cruise diary, once we left U.S. waters, the weather took a decided turn for the worse, as the Eurodam started playing hide-and-seek with the remnants of Hurricane Ophelia that was working its way up the Eastern Seaboard.

The result was 40-foot waves and unsettling groans and moans of the ship all night as the expansion joints in the windows and walls moved back and forth ceaselessly.

Communications with the Mainland (or any land!) also became dodgy. As expected, the moment we entered Canadian waters, our cell phones quit working unless we paid odious data-roaming charges. So I broke down and bought a computer plan at 55 cents a minute so I could stay in touch with my work and family as needed.

Our first port call in Canada–Halifax, Nova Scotia–was underwhelming. After we trudged up the hill to The Citadel, a Canadian military outpost (from where the photo above was taken), we went back downtown in hopes of finding interesting shops and a good place for lunch.

Finding neither, we went back to the boat and enjoyed delicious salmon and lamb burgers. Oh, well!

The storm was so serious that our scheduled stop in Sydney,Canada, the next day was cancelled! This is referred to as a “blow-by,” and really upsets the local economy and residents of these other-worldly places who rely on tourism to scratch together a meager living.

Our next port call after Sydney–Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island (PEI), Canada–was in question due to Ophelia’s wrath. It’s a place I’d always wanted to visit since I’d heard a lot about, and even sometimes eaten the famous PEI mussels.

But after another rocky night, we got through to Charlottetown okay. Even though we were greeted by extreme wind and cold and weather that ranged from hail to sleet to sun and even snow (!), it was VERY nice to be on terra firma once again.

We enjoyed a long bus ride through the countryside en route to the Anne of Green Gables house and a lobster lunch at a local jam shop and restaurant–the Prince Edward Island Preserve Co. This shot was taken through the bus window as we were leaving–it was so cold and drizzly we didn’t even want to get off the bus for a better shot.

Our lobster lunch was fun and tasty and the shellfish was from local waters. We shared our table with a Dutch couple who were very experienced mariners–the husband had worked for Holland America for many years, although there was a bit of a language barrier and we never could figure out exactly what he did.

Dessert–Raspberry Cream Pie made from local berries–was to die for.

Driving back to the ship, we marveled at the wild waves (turned a dramatic rust color from the hurricane!) on the Island’s north shore.

Our guide pointed out the mussel beds. But sadly for this foodie, we never did get to taste the Island’s most famous export.

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