Union’s $50 Meal Deal

August 6, 2008

Plump baby calamari anchor the bowl amid baby green beans, hearts of palm, mizuna, and a lovely, light aïoli at Union.

After a rousing three hours of tasting through 31 Northwest (and one English) hard ciders for an upcoming article for Pacific Northwest, The Seattle Times’ Sunday magazine, Pike Place Pub owners Charles and Rose Ann Finkel, Spencer, and I popped across the street for dinner at Union.

Our appetites, primed by the dry, apple-y effervescence of the cider, called out for sustenance. And Union more than delivered, not to mention two memorable bottles of wine.

For a mere $50 per person, diners can choose two plates from among the Appetizers, Salads, Soups, and Pastas found on the left side of the menu; one dish from the Fish, Game, and Meat on the right-hand side of the menu; plus dessert.

Spencer and I adored our Baby Calamari with Haricots Verts, Hearts of Palm, Mizuna, and Aïoli (pictured above), while Rose Ann chose her favorite Carne Cruda (a carefully crafted mound of beef tartare) and Charles went for the Chilled Cucumber Soup with Smoked Mackerel, Goat Yogurt, and Radish. A lovely Tomato Terrine with Grilled Ricotta Salata (brilliant!), Fennel, and Taggiasca Olives was our server and friend, Kurt Krause’s, little bit of lagniappe that special evening. 

While I went for the healthy, and generous, portion of Mixed Baby Greens for my second course, other members of the group ooh-ed and aah-ed over the Fregola with Manila Clams, Chilies, and Parsley Pesto. I’ve had the dish before, and can only attest to its simple goodness. Kurt reported that, although already sold out the night we visited, the Potato Gnocchi with Lobster, Bacon, and Rosemary is quickly becoming a signature dish. 

Among mains, we were tempted by all the fish offerings, from Bluenose Bass to Fluke to Ocean Trout, but I decided on the Ahi Tuna with Tomatoes, Artichokes, Fennel, and Black Olives, which was perfectly seared and sauced. Rose Ann’s bass came with cauliflower, sweet pepper, and prawns in a bouillabaisse broth. The meat eaters (boys) in the group raved over Venison with Morel Mushrooms, Carrot Purée, and Blackberries (!) and Beef Strip Loin simply served with new potatoes, spinach, olives, and red-wine sauce. 

Dessert didn’t disappoint. While one could opt for his or her choice among five different cheese plates, the four of us went straight for the sweets. They included a nummy-looking Lemon Cake with Aged Balsamic, Almond Cake with Rhubarb Compote, and Frozen Chocolate Paté with Cherry Soup and Pistachio Brittle, my choice and worth every decadent calorie. 

A pricey, but oh-so-worth-it bottle of French Sauvignon Blanc, and a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, paired perfectly with all the outstanding dishes. It’s easy to see why Union has been hailed as, “One of the Top 103 Restaurants in the U.S.,” by Bon Appetít. 

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