One of our fave restos in the Pike Place Market, The Pink Door, is celebrating 27 years in business in December by offering a four-course, fixed-price menu for $30 per person (excluding tax and gratuity).

We’ll be there to sample the inspired menu devised by La Padrona herself, Pink Door owner and founder Jackie Roberts, and chef Steve Smrstik. Here’s a bit of background on the prix-fixe menu: “For the first seven years it was open, The Pink Door featured a fixed-price, four-course menu which drew rave reviews. In fact, The Pink Door still gets calls and requests from some guests asking if they’d bring it back. To honor its birthday, The Pink Door answered the call and unveiled a fabulous four-course menu created exclusively to celebrate its 27th year of magical life!

And here’s the menu:

First Course

Antipasto Misto (a little taste of everything!)

Second Course

Paglia e Fieno (“Straw & hay” white and green fettuccine with exotic mushrooms, light cream sauce, fresh herbs, and essence of truffle)

Third Course (Choice of Entrée)

Cioppino

Prawns, mussels, clams, and calamari in a spicy tomato & white wine broth

Braised Short Ribs

With celery leaf gremolata, farro, and oven-roasted vegetables

Semolina Gnocchi alla Romana

Gorgonzola sauce, toasted walnuts, and spinach

Fourth Course

Butler Farms Salad

(Lara Ferroni Photo)

Whenever we eat at Rover’s restaurant in the Madison Valley neighborhood near downtown Seattle, my husband Spencer always orders chef Thierry Rautureau’s famous Scrambled Eggs with Lime Crème Fraîche and White Sturgeon Caviar. After scarfing the delicate egg dish, Spencer always (only half-jokingly) says he would like me to make that for him for breakfast every day!

A press release and accompanying photo reminded me of the decadent dish, which would be a perfect holiday treat. It also reminded me that, “December is the perfect month for a bit of indulgence. Whether it’s an extravagant gift for a loved one or that extra plate of homemade fudge, December is full of little pleasures. It’s no coincidence that December is also caviar month at Rover’s. Indulge with the Caviar Martini featuring Belvedere vodka and a tasting of white sturgeon caviar for a treat James Bond might appreciate, or indulge with a tasting ‘flight’ of American caviar and blinis (a buckwheat pancake similar to a crepe) for the ultimate caviar experience.”

Sign me up! Here are particulars on the martini and caviar flight.

Caviar Martini ~ $25

Belvedere Vodka (shaken, not stirred) alongside a tasting of white sturgeon caviar served a mound of shaved ice

Degustation de American Caviar ~ $85

A glass of Veuve Cliquot Rosé Champagne

Scrambled Eggs with Lime Crème Fraîche and White Sturgeon Caviar

Buckwheat Blinis

Montana Paddlefish Caviar

Montana Golden White Fish Caviar

Alaska Ikura Caviar

The second edition of Pike Place Palate is available for early orders. Learn about honey producers, a flower grower, Market restaurants, and much more. There’s also a directory of all Market retail shops and craftspeople (divided by category)–a great help for holiday shopping. Read more here and order your copy today!

Shown above is our colleague Michael Allemeier (right), executive chef of Mission Hill Family Estate winery in Westbank, British Columbia, during a ceremony where he was presented with a Silver Star of Excellence from the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs.The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society devoted to promoting fine dining and preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table in more than 120 countries around the world.

The Silver Star was awarded to Allemeier in late October at the annual induction dinner held at the winery. It honors the chef’s 15 years of service and dedication to the Paris-based epicurean organization and for overseeing the Jeunes Commis Rôtisseurs Competition for young chefs.

“It’s a privilege to be part of such a prestigious organization with its long history of culinary and dining traditions,” says Allemeier. “Helping mentor and develop the next generation of cooks through the Jeunes Commis Rôtisseurs Competition has been a real pleasure for me. I believe all good farmers need to replenish resources we’ve taken out; giving back to the culinary community by cultivating future chefs is one of the greatest ways for us to do this.” Hear, hear! 

Over the Thanksgiving holiday, we joined two wild-and-crazy friends for a movie at the Harvard Exit (Slumdog MIllionaire–highly recommended–Spencer and I both gave it four out of five stars) followed by dinner at Jerry Traunfeld’s (former, long-time chef at The Herbfarm) new restaurant, Poppy. The place has been open several months, and while we were embarrassed that this was our first foray, I really prefer to give new restaurants some time to work out the kinks. And glad to report, we weren’t disappointed.

The space along Broadway atop Capitol Hill is clicking along with good energy, big crowds (reservations are a must on Friday and Saturday nights), and assured (and gracious) service. Not least of all is the very creative menu and inspired wine pairings, as well as cocktails and wines by the glass or bottle.

To start, we began with the Eggplant Fries with Sea Salt & Honey, the perfect combo of pillow-soft, thinly sliced eggplant drizzled with honey and sprinkled with sea salt. I’m not sure how Jerry makes this dish–perhaps similar to Pommes Frites where the potatoes are fried once, allowed to drain, then fried again just before serving (?). Anyway, however they are made, they are totally addictive.

All four of us opted for the Thali of the day, which was titled, “A Thali After the Holiday” ($32). In inspired twists on traditional Thanksgiving offerings, it included Potato, Leek, and Taggia Olive Soup; Rosemary-Ginger Yams with Spiced Coconut and a divine fillo-wrapped Cranberry “Cigar;” and Mushroom Marjoram Bread Pudding–yum. Salads included a refreshing Persimmon, Fennel, and Chervil Salad; Shaved Cauliflower with Buddha Hand (not sure what that was, but it added an intriguing flavor sensation); and Fennel Lemon Pickle. Five-Seed Kale was the seasonal veggie, while the large British Columbia Scallop with Vanilla Parsnip Purée and Saffron Cider Sauce (topped with gently fried shallot rings) was my favorite protein on the plate. Quail from the Tandoor was perfectly cooked–flavorfully spiced and moist–and rested on a rich, yet bright Pomegranate Walnut Sauce. 

If we’d wanted to go entirely vegetarian, or simply trade out one or two of the dishes, substitutions of a Leek Blintz with Chestnuts and Porcini or Swiss Chard and Chanterelle Gratin were available. 

There was also A Smali After the Holiday, choice of one dish served with soup, cauliflower, yams, pickle, bread pudding, and the cigar ($22). 

The neat thing (literally and figuratively) about eating in the Thali style (eight or nine small dishes on a large platter–it originated in India, which is where chef Jerry discovered it about a year ago) is that everyone gets his or her own large platter with all the dishes. No sharing à la the recent wave of “small plates,” “tapas,” “pintxos,” “mezes,” or whatever else you want to call them. No accidental stabbing of hands or slicing of fingers as everyone at the table tries to snatch a tiny bite of the Lilliputan-sized dish before it is all gone. No more going home half-starved because you never get enough to eat. Dining Thali-style is a revelation!

Two Sweet Thalis for Two allowed our party of four to taste through almost all of pastry chef Dana Cree’s (former Veil and The Ruins) incredible dessert delights. The little kid in me loved the Malted Milk Chocolate Ice Cream with a rich fudge sauce, while the adult side swooned over the Pear and Sour Cherry Crumble with Blue Cheese Ice Cream (chef Jerry’s fave dessert–an exquisite melding of sweet and savory). Like the main-dish Thali, the Sweet Thali included interesting side dishes to nibble and sip: Pear Rosemary Soup, Chocolate Caramel Truffle, Coconut Haystack (like the best coconut macaroon you’ve ever tasted!), and Spiced Toffee Cashews.

There’s even a Thali Wine Flight ($14) that included a nicely dry but flavorful French Chablis, A to Z 2007 Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley, and Alexandria Nicole Quarry Butte Red, a red blend from the Columbia Valley. Our server encouraged us to try each of the wines with the different dishes–there were no set pairings or “right” or “wrong”–which took the pressure off and added to the sense of discovery and fun during the meal.

After a glass of Andrew Rich Late-Harvest Gewürzt for me, and a final pour of the Oregon Pinot or the red blend for my fellow diners, we were amazed to see it was 11 o’clock, and we’d passed a very pleasant two-plus hours tasting through Poppy’s outstanding offerings. We also all agreed that dining Thali-style at such reasonable prices in a contemporary, yet warm, urban setting will have the crowds, and us, clamoring for more, and often!

Poppy

622 Broadway East at Roy

Seattle, WA  98102

206.324.1108

Blue Cheesecake

Varietal: Syrah, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc

Serves 12 to 16

One of Washington State’s hottest boutique wineries, Rulo Winery was created by Kurt and Vicki Schlicker, who moved from California to the Walla Walla Valley to fulfill their winemaking dream. Kurt, the winemaker, crafts gorgeous white wines—Viognier, Chardonnay, and white blends—as well as Syrah and red blends. Originally titled Gorgonzola Cheesecake, this recipe originated at Paragon restaurant in Portland, but Kurt and Vicki have personalized it over the years and I’ve added a few Northwest touches, such as hazelnuts and Oregon Blue Vein cheese.

You can serve it as a rustic appetizer with crostini and crackers, but I like slicing it into narrow wedges and serving it with fresh fruits of the season as a savory dessert or cheese course. Pear or quince paste is also a tasty accompaniment. Blue Cheesecake is so versatile, it pairs well with either a red wine, such as Syrah, or a white, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier.

1 1/2 cups water

1/2 cup medium-grind cornmeal

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 tablespoon dried basil, crumbled (optional)

1 1/2 teaspoons herbes de Provence, crumbled

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

Three 8-ounce packages cream cheese, at room temperature

1/2 pound Oregon Blue Vein, Oregonzola, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, or other high-quality blue cheese, cut into chunks, at room temperature

3 large eggs

1/4 cup (1 ounce) freshly shredded Parmesan cheese

1 head garlic, cloves separated and roasted (See Cook’s Hint, below)

1/2 cup whole hazelnuts, pine nuts, or almonds, toasted

Crostini or crackers, for serving, optional

1. Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Slowly stir in the cornmeal, stirring in one direction to avoid lumps, then add the garlic, basil, if using, herbes de Provence, and salt. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until smooth and creamy, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as necessary so the polenta doesn’t overcook or bubble up and splatter, 12 to 15 minutes.

2. While the polenta is cooking, place the cream cheese and blue cheese in a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs one at a time and mix by hand (if you are very strong!) or beat with an electric mixer until the eggs are thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

3. Arrange the oven rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly oil a 9-inch springform pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

4. When the polenta is done, remove it from the heat and stir in the Parmesan cheese. Let cool for 5 minutes. With a rubber spatula, press the polenta into the bottom of the prepared springform pan and set aside.

5. Pour the reserved cheese filling evenly over the polenta crust. Tap the pan lightly on the counter to remove any air bubbles. Squeeze the garlic cloves from their skins and arrange them around the perimeter of the pan at equal distances. Sprinkle the hazelnuts evenly in the center of the cheesecake.

6. Place the cheesecake on a baking sheet to catch any drips, transfer to the oven, and bake for 1 hour, or until the cake springs back when lightly jiggled and the internal temperature on an instant-read thermometer reaches 160°F. Cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour.

7. To serve, release and remove the sides of the springform pan. Serve the cheesecake warm or at room temperature, cut into slices as an appetizer or spread onto crostini or crackers for a more rustic look. The cheesecake can be covered and kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week (its flavors meld and deepen the longer it sits). If serving from the refrigerator, slice and warm it in a 350°F oven or microwave briefly before serving.

Cook’s Hint: To roast individual cloves of garlic, preheat the oven to 375°F. Remove as much skin as possible from each clove, place in a small baking dish without crowding (a pie plate also works well for this), cover tightly with aluminum foil, and bake until the garlic is very tender and easily squeezed from the skin, 35 minutes.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.