Oysters Gratinée

Varietal: Semillon, Champagne, or Sparkling Wine

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Philippe Boulot, executive chef at the venerable Heathman Restaurant (adjacent to The Heathman Hotel in downtown Portland) is the kind of guy who thinks nothing about doing a 10-course dinner at the venerable James Beard House in New York City—in which every course incorporates oysters! The classic dish below—oysters baked in a creamy cheese sauce—could well have been in the line-up, it is so rich and satisfying to the soul. Pair it with a crisp, dry white wine, such as Semillon or my choice—Champagne or Sparkling Wine—for a New Year’s day buffet or any time when Northwest oysters, such as Pacific, Olympia, European Flats, Kumamotos, or Virginicas, are in their prime.

20 fresh Pacific Northwest oysters, such as Westcott Bay European Flats, Kumamoto, Kushi, or Pacific

Rock salt

1 pound leeks, chopped (green parts only)

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) grated Swiss cheese

1 large egg yolk

1. With an oyster knife, shuck the oysters over a mixing bowl to catch all the juices. Reserve the bottom (cupped) shell from each oyster. Set the oysters aside. To prepare the reserved oyster shells for stuffing, rinse the shells in hot water, drain, and pat completely dry. Place a layer of rock salt on a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the oyster shells cup side up without crowding. Set aside.

2. Add the oyster juice, leeks, and cream to a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the Swiss cheese, stir well, and allow to cool. Once cool, whisk in the egg yolk.

3. Ten minutes before cooking, preheat the oven to 450°F. Divide half the leek mixture among the prepared oyster shells, cover with an oyster, and divide the remaining leek mixture over the tops of the oysters. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the oysters are cooked through but still tender and the sauce is slightly browned.

4. To serve, place a fresh layer of rock salt on a decorative platter or 4 individual plates. Arrange the oysters over the rock salt and serve immediately.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.