In mid October we were lucky enough to be among a cadre of local media, trade, and restaurateurs who were invited to experience a Spanish olive-oil tasting and dinner at Spur Gastropub in Belltown.

There we learned that Spain claims to be the first producers of olive oil in the world, and that Spain produces 25 percent in the world, with production of 1.2 million tons of the extra-virgin variety.

Southern Spain is home to 300 million olive trees (!), and 24 varieties are used to make Spanish olive oil.

Here’s a shot of the four oils we sampled (left to right). They included Arbequina, which is described as “clean and green with fresh-mown grass, green apple, and green almond notes.” The soft, delicately flavored oil produced from this variety is lovely with boiled potatoes or roasted fish or salads garnished with orange segments.

Hojiblanca extra virgin olive oil looks cloudy because it is unfiltered. It has “dry-grass and hay notes reminiscent of a summer day.” It works well in pastries, pasta, and for bread-dipping, as well as for frying.

Cornicabra (a.k.a. “the heart of the goat”) is more bitter and peppery–a more rustic-style oil than the others in the group. Try it with barbecue.

Picual is the most produced oil in Spain, as well as the most intense of the four we sampled. Use it to add a distinctive flavor atop vegetables, soups, and stews.

Spur chef/owners Brian McCrackena and Dana Tough created a six-course tasting menu highlighting each of the four oils. Pictured above is our first course of Slow-Cooked Butterfish (a.k.a. Black Cod or Sablefish) with Potatoes, Pearl-Onion Confit, and Hojiblanca Olive-Oil Foam.

I’m not much of a meat eater, but the Poached Pork Loin won me over with its buttery texture, wilted arugula, thin crostini, and Picual Mayonnaise. Truly a perfect dish.

Even dessert featured olive oil–the Arbequina variety in Olive Oil Ice Cream with Sponge Cake and Lemon. While you might not think of using olive oil in baking, it can make cakes lighter and more healthy than butter-based versions.

Spanish Albariño and Verdejo wines paired perfectly with these outstanding dishes.