Brian Cartenuto, chef/owner of Cantinetta in Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood, will take his “serious, soulful Italian food” on the road when he appears at the James Beard House on Wednesday, February 10, at 7 p.m.

The chef describes his style as “refined simplicity.” He’s wowed critics, including Providence Cicero, my colleague and the food critic at The Seattle Times. Provi describes his cooking as “assured,” saying it combines “a wonderful balance of flavors with an element of surprise.”

Among the dishes he’ll prepare in the JB House’s small kitchen, so small that it requires chefs to prep most of their dishes off site? Among the appetizers you’ll find Pancetta-Wrapped Dates with 50-Year-Old Balsamic, Arancini (Rice Balls) with Saffron and Ricotta Salata, and Bacalao (Salt Cod) with Tomato-Olive Sugo.

With Pork Cheeks with Turnips and Citrus Gremolata as a main course, a hearty Grilled Treviso salad for balance, and side dishes including Brussels Sprouts with Duck Confit for the table to share, this dinner promises to be a winner.