Sea Scallops with Fennel-Orange Marmalade

Varietal: Pinot Gris

Serves 10 to 15; makes 30 appetizers

This plush dish, which hails from Bethel Heights Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, invigorates the taste buds by pairing the sweet-musky flavor of scallops with the bracing edge of orange and the astringency of fennel. Pair it with a good-quality Pinot Gris (such as Bethel Heights) and notice how the light aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, orange, and stone fruit, topped off by a hint of minerality, along with a crisp, dry finish complement the flavors in the marmalade. You will have about a cup of marmalade left over; it keeps in the refrigerator for up to a week or freezes well for later use. It is excellent paired with a small block of cream cheese and crackers as a quick appetizer, as a dipping sauce for shrimp, or as a chutney or salsa with pork tenderloin. If serving the marmalade with pork tenderloin, pair the dish with your favorite Oregon Pinot Noir.

1 fennel bulb, diced (about 2 1/4 cups), plus the feathery green tops, minced, for garnish

2 tablespoons diced shallots

2 oranges, peeled, segmented, and diced, plus any juice that accumulates

1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest

4 cups freshly squeezed or store-bought orange juice

1/4 cup white wine

l/4 cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon whole fennel seed

1/4 cup Cointreau or other orange-flavored liqueur

Granulated sugar

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter, plus extra as needed

30 fresh or thawed untreated (dry pack) sea scallops, rinsed, drained, and patted very dry
(see Cook’s Hint, below)

30 good-quality whole-wheat crackers

1. Heat a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the diced fennel, shallots, orange segments and their juice, zest, orange juice, white wine, brown sugar, and fennel seed and stir well. Bring to a rolling boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced to about 2 cups, 30 to 35 minutes. At the beginning of the cooking time, watch the pan carefully so the orange juice does not boil over.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Cointreau. Taste the marmalade; if it is too tart, add sugar to taste. Return the pan to the heat and cook, stirring often, until it reaches the consistency of chutney, 3 to 5 minutes. In the last minutes of cooking, watch carefully and stir often so the marmalade doesn’t burn. Transfer half of the marmalade to a small nonreactive bowl or jar, allow to cool completely, cover, and save for another use (see headnote). Keep the remaining marmalade warm until ready to serve.

3. In a large heavy-bottomed skillet (nonstick works best for this), heat the olive oil and butter over medium to medium-high heat until the butter foams. Working in batches, add the scallops without crowding. Cook the scallops, turning only once, until golden brown on the outside and still translucent in the middle (see Cook’s Hints, below), 1 to 2 minutes per side. Add more butter and oil if needed.

4. To serve, place a cooked scallop on a cracker and top with a scant teaspoon of marmalade. Garnish with the minced fennel greens.

Cook’s Hints: (1) If you can’t find fresh scallops, it is important to use previously frozen untreated or “dry pack” scallops instead, or the scallops will not brown (caramelize) properly, and will instead steam in their own juices. Previously frozen scallops that have been treated with phosphates during processing absorb water. Not only do they not cook properly, they lack the fresh, sweet, and briny sea flavor of their dry-packed cousins. Sea scallops that are uniformly white in color, or that are displayed surrounded by juice, are most likely treated. (2) Scallops (like many types of seafood) are delicate and will continue to cook even after they are taken off the heat. It is always preferable to undercook rather than overcook scallops so they don’t become tough and rubbery. When using the sauté method described above, many chefs prefer the scallops cooked medium rare (still translucent in the middle).

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.