Manhattan Clam Chowder

Wine Varietal: Merlot

Serves 4 as an entrée; 8 as an appetizer

Chowder owes its name to the French chaudière, a three-legged heavy iron cooking pot. Fishermen returning to their villages would throw a portion of their catch into the pot as the villagers gathered to welcome the men home and share the meal. In the 1600s, the tradition crossed the Atlantic as French colonists settled what is now eastern Canada. Through the years, there evolved two main types of chowder. In northern New England, chowder is made with milk or cream. In Rhode Island and the New York area, chowder is made with tomatoes and broth. Manhattan-style chowder is generally healthier and more vegetable-based, as in this version. If served with a green salad and crusty whole-grain bread, this makes a one-saucepan dinner for four.

2 cups water

2 pounds Manila or native littleneck clams, purged and shells scrubbed

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 white or yellow onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 stalk celery, diced

1/2 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced

1/2 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced

1 carrot, peeled and diced

6 small new potatoes, scrubbed and quartered, or 1 baking potato, scrubbed and diced

1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, coarsely chopped, juice reserved

1/8 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons water

1. In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, combine the water and clams. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low, cover, and steam for 6 to 10 minutes, or until the clams open. Shake the pot occasionally to redistribute the clams.

2. Remove the clams to a bowl and reserve the cooking liquid. Discard any clams that have not opened. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-meshed sieve lined with several thicknesses of dampened cheesecloth. Allow the clams to cool, then shuck the meat from the shells and discard the shells. Cover and place the clam meats in the refrigerator for later use. Measure 2 cups of the cooking liquid, and discard the rest or save for another use. Rinse and dry the stockpot or Dutch oven.

3. Place the olive oil in the stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook 3 to 5 minutes, or until the onion is tender-crisp, stirring often. Add the celery, green and red bell pepper, carrot, and potato. Cover and cook 8 to 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender-crisp, stirring occasionally. If the vegetables begin to stick or brown too quickly, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water and stir well.

4. Add the tomatoes and their juice, the reserved clam cooking liquid, the Tabasco sauce, Worcestershire sauce, oregano, bay leaf, sugar, salt, and pepper and stir well. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat, and simmer 15 to 20 minutes, covered, or until the potatoes and carrots are tender, stirring occasionally.

5. Taste the broth and add additional salt and pepper, if necessary. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with water until well blended. Remove the pot from the heat and add the cornstarch mixture. Stir well to blend completely, then return the pan to the heat. Cook 1 to 2 minutes more, or until the soup thickens, stirring occasionally. For an even thicker, creamier consistency, place half of the vegetable mixture (about 3 1/2 cups) in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Add back to the pot and stir well. Add the reserved clams, stir well, and cook until the clams are warmed through. Do not overcook, or the clams will be tough.

6. Remove the bay leaf and divide the chowder among soup bowls.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s personal collection. 

Photo by Braiden Rex-Johnson. 

Beet Salad with Fresh Basil Dressing

Wine Varietal: Pinot Noir

Serves 6

Pike Place Market Summer Sundays

My friend Cynthia Lair teaches at Bastyr University (a naturopathic university near Seattle), is the author of “Feeding the Whole Family” and “Feeding the Young Athlete” (which has just been re-released), and even has an online cooking series called Cookus Interruptus. Cynthia prepared this recipe during the Pike Place Market’s summertime cooking demonstration series years ago, and I printed the recipe in the second edition of the “Pike Place Market Cookbook.” Thanks, Cynthia!

4 large beets

1 bunch beet greens

1/4 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted (see Techniques section)

2 green onions, white and pale green part only, finely chopped

Fresh Basil Dressing (recipe follows)

1/4 pound feta cheese (optional)

1. To prepare the beets, rinse them and remove the tops. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the beets. Lower the heat and simmer 1 hour, or until the beets are tender. Set aside to cool. When cool, peel the beets, cut them into small cubes, and reserve.

2. To prepare the beet greens, rinse them by submerging the bunch in a sink or large pot full of cold water. Shake off the excess water and chop the bunch into bite-sized pieces.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the greens. Cook 30 seconds, or just until the stems are tender. Place the greens in a colander and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process. Squeeze out the excess water and reserve the greens.

4. When ready to serve, place the cubed beets, beet greens, pumpkin seeds, and green onion in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss gently to mix. Crumble feta over the top. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

Fresh Basil Dressing

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil

1. Place all the ingredients in a small jar with a lid and shake well to mix. If not using immediately, refrigerate until ready to serve.

Cook’s Hint: If beet greens are unavailable, Cynthia suggests substituting raw watercress, spinach, or arugula leaves that have been well rinsed and spun dry or collard greens that have been well rinsed, coarsely chopped, and cooked until tender in the same way as described above for the beet greens.

Strawberry-Nut Bread

Wine Varietal: Sweet Dessert Wine

Makes 2 loaves

A light-brown nut bread bursting with cinnamon, this recipe is great to make when local strawberries are available in the late spring and summer, as well as around the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays using frozen, sliced berries. It originated from Dianna Biringer, co-owner of Biringer Farm. The Biringer family first had a farm table, then a retail outlet, in the Pike Place Market. Nowadays, they hoss an annual Strawberry Festival and other festive events throughout the year, at the farm on the Red Rooster Route in Arlington, Washington.

3 cups sifted all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 cups granulated sugar

4 large eggs

1 1/4 cups light vegetable oil, such as canola, corn, or soy

2 cups fresh strawberries, prepared as described in the Cook’s Hint, below, or 2 cups frozen, unsweetened, sliced strawberries, thawed

1 1/4 cups chopped hazelnuts or pecans

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Lightly grease two 5-by 9-inch loaf pans or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

2. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, soda, salt, cinnamon, and sugar, then whisk until the cinnamon is dispersed throughout the flour. In a separate large bowl, whisk the eggs, then mix in the oil, strawberries, and hazelnuts with a fork.

3. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the wet ingredients, stirring just enough to moisten the dry ingredients. Divide the batter between the prepared loaf pans and bake for 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

4. Cool 10 minutes on a wire rack. Turn out the loaves, slice into 8 slices per loaf, and serve as desired (see Serving Suggestions, below).

Cook’s Hint: If using fresh berries, make sure they are very ripe and juicy. Halve or quarter the berries, then gently mash them with a fork to start the juices flowing. Let the berries sit at room temperature for 1 hour before adding to the wet ingredients. You can also substitute frozen, sweetened berries, but reduce the 2 cups of sugar to 1 1/2 cups.

Serving Suggestions: Once baked, slices of Strawberry-Nut Bread make a scandalously rich base for strawberry shortcake or strawberry sundaes. To serve, just put a slice in the bottom of a deep dish and add a scoop of strawberry ice cream or frozen yogurt, additional sliced strawberries or strawberry syrup, whipped cream or whipped topping, and top with a whole strawberry.

Photo Courtesy of Biringer Farms

Sichuan Pepper-Glazed Halibut Cheeks

Wine Varietal: Dry Riesling

Serves 4

Halibut cheeks are considered a delicacy by West Coast gourmets because of their crab-like taste and consistency. This easy, yet exotic recipe uses Asian spices, including five-spice and Sichuan peppercorns, to subtly enhance the natural flavor and texture of this rare and expensive cut of fish. Serve with steamed brown rice and sautéed baby bok choy.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

2 tablespoons sodium-reduced soy sauce (or 1 tablespoon regular soy sauce plus 1 tablespoon water)

1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder

2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns, toasted and finely ground in a spice mill or electric coffee grinder (See Cook’s Hint, below)

1 1/2 pounds halibut cheeks, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

1. Preheat the broiler. Lightly oil a baking sheet or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

2. In a small saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. Add the maple syrup, soy sauce, and five-spice and stir well. Bring to a boil and stir occasionally until the glaze thickens. Remove from the heat.

3. Place the fish fillets on the prepared baking sheet and brush lightly with the glaze. Place the fish under the broiler 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil for 2 minutes, then remove from oven and brush lightly with the glaze. Broil 2 minutes more, then brush lightly with the glaze. Broil 2 to 3 minutes more, depending on the thickness of the cheeks, which should just turn opaque.

4. Remove the fish from the broiler and sprinkle heavily with the ground Sichuan peppercorns. Divide the cheeks among 4 dinner plates.

Cook’s Hint: World Spice Merchants, just below the main part of the Pike Place Market along Western Avenue, is an amazing resource for chefs and home cooks alike. According to the company’s website, “Sichuan Pepper is not an actual pepper, but the dried berry from the Chinese prickly ash bush. Also known as Fagara this spice has a tingly flavor that zaps the tongue like an electrical current. Use like pepper for a tasty change of pace. Excellent with duck and chicken and in five-spice blends. Make sure to try it the next time you cook salmon, too.” The berries are sold by the ounce, which is equal to about half a cup and costs just $2.00, a very worthwhile addition to any adventurous cook’s spice rack.

Photo of Sichuan peppercorns courtesy of World Spice Merchants

Bronzed Albacore Tuna

Wine Varietal: Pinot Noir

Serves 4

Bronzing fish is a more gentle way of cooking the tender flesh than blackening, which many cooks remember from its heyday in the 1980s when Cajun cuisine was all the rage. According to cookbook author Carol Foster in her book, “Short Cuts to Great Cuisine,” from which this recipe originated, “Bronzing, as opposed to the blackening cooking method, allows the home cook to enjoy juicy, tender, spice-encrusted fish without an accompanying smoke alarm. Since blackening requires a cast-iron skillet to reach at least 500 degrees, it creates a blinding amount of smoke that only a commercial vent can handle. The tamer bronzing method requires only 350 degrees, a reasonable alternative. Another advantage to bronzing is that all the fillets can be cooked at once; blackening requires that one fillet be cooked at a time, wiping out the skillet in between.” Carol’s original recipe called for red snapper, but she suggests substituting any firm-fleshed fish, such as salmon or tuna. I have chosen the Northwest’s own albacore tuna, which has its annual run in the summer, and suggest pairing it with a good-quality Oregon Pinot Noir.

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme, crumbled

1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

3/4 cup unsalted butter

1 1/2 pounds tuna loin or steaks, 3/4-inch thick, rinsed, drained, patted dry, cut into four (6-ounce) pieces, and brought to room temperature before cooking, if time permits

1. In a small bowl, blend the paprika, thyme, oregano, salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Melt the butter in a small skillet and keep over low heat.

2. Place a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When the skillet is very hot, dip the tuna pieces in the butter and sprinkle both sides evenly with the spice mixture. Place in skillet immediately (do not place on another surface or the spices will be lost) and cook about 3 minutes. Turn and cook another 2 minutes, depending upon the thickness and degree of doneness desired. Transfer the fish to a warmed serving plate.

3. Pour the remaining warm butter into the cast-iron skillet, scraping up any browned bits and spices that may have accumulated on the bottom. Pour over the fish and serve immediately.

Richard’s Copper River Salmon Croquettes

Wine Varietal: Pinot Noir

Serves 4

During the glorious summer months, when the Copper River salmon are running, my favorite fishmonger at Pure Food Fish in the Pike Place Market, Richard Hoage, saves some of the meaty bones as a special treat. I take them home and scrape away the succulent nubbins of flesh, then use Richard’s recipe to make salmon croquettes. Sometimes I add my own flourishes, such as diced red or green peppers or fresh corn kernels, depending on what’s handy in the vegetable compartment and what strikes my fancy. Serve with a dollop of crème fraîche, best-quality mayonnaise, or your favorite barbecue sauce or salsa verde.

1 large egg

Pinch of salt

Pinch of freshly ground black or white pepper

1/2 white or yellow medium onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley, or 1 tablespoon minced cilantro, plus additional sprigs for garnish

1 pound scraped Copper River salmon meat or 1 pound wild Alaskan salmon fillet, skin and bones removed, minced by hand or food processor

1 to 1 1/2 cups unseasoned soft bread crumbs (See Cook’s Hint, below)

1 tablespoon olive oil or 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil and 1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter

Lemon wedges, for garnish

1. In a large mixing bowl, stir together the egg, salt, pepper, onion, garlic, and the minced parsley. Add the salmon and gently stir until the egg mixture is well incorporated. Add 1 cup of the bread crumbs and stir again. If the salmon mixture is too sticky to handle, add the remaining bread crumbs and stir again. Divide the salmon into 4 portions and form into patties. Do not handle or pat the salmon any more than is absolutely necessary.

2. Over medium heat, place a nonstick skillet large enough to hold the patties without crowding. When the pan is hot, add the olive oil. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the patties and cook 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Turn and cook 3 to 5 minutes more, or until the patties just turn opaque in the middle. Alternately, the patties can be baked on a lightly greased baking sheet in a 400°F oven for 6 to 8 minutes on each side. or until the patties are lightly browned. Or broil the patties 4 to 6 inches from the heat source for 4 to 5 minutes on each side.

3. Transfer the croquettes to individual plates, garnish with the parsley sprigs and lemon wedges, and serve.

Cook’s Hint: To make unseasoned soft (fresh) bread crumbs, tear slices of white or whole-wheat bread into chunks and place them in a food processor. Process until crumbs of the desired size form. Fresh bread crumbs can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week; in the freezer, tightly wrapped, they keep for about six months.

Recipe reprinted from the “Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook, Gift Edition and e-Edition,” copyright 2005 and 2012, by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Photograph Courtesy of Spencer Johnson.  

Halibut with Sundried-Tomato Tapenade

Wine Varietal: Lemberger

Tapenade, a thick paste used as a condiment in the Provence region of France, is traditionally made of capers, anchovies, ripe olives, olive oil, lemon juice, and seasonings. My bright, lemony version offers a bold contrast in color, taste, and texture to mild-flavored, simply-broiled halibut. A mini-food processor helps cut down on preparation time, although the ingredients can also be minced by hand. Any leftover tapenade can be served with other finfish, vegetables, or chicken.

1 cup sundried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and coarsely chopped

1/2 cup pimento-stuffed green olives, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon capers

1 clove garlic, halved

Zest of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lemon, freshly squeezed

Tabasco

1 1/2 pounds halibut fillets, 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick, skin and bones removed, rinsed, drained, patted dry, and cut into four 6-ounce fillets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1. Preheat the broiler. Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Place the sundried tomatoes, olives, capers, garlic, and lemon zest in a mini food processor and pulse until minced. Alternately, mince the ingredients by hand.

3. Place the minced vegetables and lemon juice in a small nonreactive mixing bowl and stir well. Season to taste with Tabasco. Cover and set aside at room temperature while preparing the fish.

4. Sprinkle the cod fillets lightly on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the fillets on the prepared baking sheet and brush lightly with olive oil.

5. Place the fish under the broiler 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil 5 to 7 minutes, depending on the thickness of  the fillets, which should just turn opaque.

6. Divide the fish fillets among 4 dinner plates. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the tapenade beside each fillet.

Recipe reprinted from the “Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook, Gift Edition and e-Edition,” copyright 2005 and 2012, by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Fava Bean Dip with Pecorino Romano and Garden Mint

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Makes about 3 cups

This recipe from the Pike Place Market’s venerable Pink Door restaurant is courtesy of owner Jackie Roberts, a.k.a., La Padrona. This spring-time appetizer was inspired by Jackie’s fond memories of her grandfather eating raw fava beans along with a wedge of cheese, a hunk of crusty bread, and a glass of wine. Luckily, in her iteration, the favas are briefly cooked before puréeing with garlic, parsley, and olive oil to form a bright green spread.

4 to 5 pounds fresh fava beans in the shell

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 large clove garlic, coarsely chopped

3/4 to 1 cup olive oil

3/4 to 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper, or to taste

Bruschetta (recipe follows)

1 ounce Pecorino Romano cheese

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

1. To prepare the fava beans, remove the beans from the shells and discard the shells. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil and add the beans. Cook 30 to 60 seconds, drain, and rinse in cold water. When the beans are cool enough to handle, slit one side of the husk with the tip of a small, sharp kitchen knife, and pop out the bean inside. Repeat with the remaining beans, which should yield about 4 cups.

2. Place the beans, parsley, and garlic in a food processor and pulse until the beans resemble small pebbles. With the motor running, add the olive oil in a thin, slow stream until the fava beans reach a thick consistency, scraping down the sides of bowl once or twice. You may need anywhere from 3/4 to 1 cup of oil.

3. Transfer the bean mixture to a medium mixing bowl and stir in 3/4 cup of the lemon juice. Add additional lemon juice if necessary to reach a spreadable consistency. Stir in the salt and pepper, taste the purée, and add more salt or pepper if desired.

4. To serve, spread the fava bean purée on the bruschetta. Using a clean, dry vegetable peeler, shave curls of cheese over the brushetta and sprinkle with mint.

Bruschetta

1 loaf crusty country bread, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, halved

1. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and place 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and rub one side of each bread slice with the halved cloves of garlic, then brush lightly with olive oil.

Cook’s Hint: Although your first instinct might be to use extra virgin olive oil in the fava bean purée, Jackie advises not using it in this particular recipe. It is too pungent and makes the purée bitter instead of buttery smooth. A good second-press olive oil does the job and is less expensive than extra virgin oil.

Curried Apples with Cider Cream

Wine Varietal: Late-Harvest Riesling

Serves 4 to 6

Combining several varieties of heirloom apples makes the most flavorful apple compote, crisp, or pie. The touch of curry powder warms the spirit on cool autumn days.

3 large, crisp, heirloom apples, about 1 1/2 lbs., preferably a mix of several hardy varieties such as Braeburn, Granny Smith, Gravenstein, Fuji, Pippin, or Criterion

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon mild curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons golden raisins, optional

1.To prepare the apples, rinse and pat dry but do not peel. Core the apples, cut into quarters, and cut the quarters into bite-size pieces.

2. Melt the butter in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the curry powder, cinnamon, and allspice and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the spices give off their aroma. Add the sugar and raisins and mix well, then add the apples and stir until they are covered with the sugar/spice syrup. Cover and cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until apples are tender but not mushy, stirring occasionally.

3. To serve, place apples in individual dessert dishes and top with cider cream.

Cider Cream

Makes 1 1/4 cups sauce

1 cup good-quality apple cider or 1/4 cup apple juice concentrate, defrosted

1 pint whipping cream

1. Bring the apple cider to a boil in a small saucepan. Cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until mixture is reduced to about 1/4 cup. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

2. Beat whipping cream until stiff, then fold in cider (or apple juice concentrate, if using) until thoroughly mixed. Keep refrigerated until ready to use.

Seafood Strudel

Wine Varietal: Sparkling Wine or Champagne

Serves 6

For years, this phyllo-wrapped seafood extravaganza has formed the centerpiece for my New Year’s Eve buffet. Brimming with bay scallops and spot prawns (or shrimp), the strudel makes an elegant and impressive presentation, yet goes together quickly once the ingredients are prepped. For a phyllo-dough preparation, it’s lowfat (just one-and-one-half teaspoons of fat per serving!) and full of flavor; the scallops and shrimp form a light “cream” sauce as they cook in the lacy dough. Pair it with a good Northwest Sauvignon Blanc and note how the tarragon (king of the herbs, according to the French) and the anise-flavored Ouzo pick up the herbaceous notes in the wine, while the acidity in the Sauv Blanc cuts through the buttery notes in the phyllo. Just be sure to serve it immediately after it is cooked, as this is one dish that doesn’t reheat well. In keeping with the winter holiday season when I make the strudel, I like to serve it with a simple green salad tossed with a light vinaigrette and garnished with grapefruit segments and toasted almonds. Simply steamed broccoli or Brussels sprouts work well, too. Don’t forget a glass (or three!) of bubbly!

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup diced carrots

1/2 cup chopped white or yellow onion

3/4 pound rinsed, dried fresh spinach leaves, blanched (See Cook’s Hint, below) and squeezed very dry or 1 package (10 ounces) frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed very dry

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon, plus extra sprigs, for garnish, or 2 teaspoons dried tarragon, crumbled

3/4 pound Alaskan spot prawns or medium shrimp, rinsed, shelled, deveined, and cut in half lengthwise

3/4 pound bay scallops, rinsed and patted dry

1/2 cup homemade unseasoned dry bread crumbs (See Cook’s Hint, below) or storebought unseasoned dry bread crumbs

1 tablespoon Ouzo, Pernod, or other good-quality anise-flavored liqueur

6 sheets phyllo dough, thawed and covered with a damp kitchen towel to keep them from drying out

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots and onion and cook 5 to 7 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender-crisp, stirring occasionally.

3. Add the spinach, salt, and tarragon and stir constantly, until the spinach and vegetables are well mixed and the tarragon begins to give off its aroma, about 1 minute.

4. Gently stir in the spot prawns, scallops, 1/4 cup of the bread crumbs, and the Ouzo. Immediately remove the skillet from the heat, but continue stirring until the scallops begin to turn white on the outside, 1 to 2 minutes more. Reserve the seafood filling at room temperature while you prepare the phyllo dough.

5. Place a large piece of parchment paper on a clean, dry work surface. Place one sheet of the phyllo in the center of the parchment and dot lightly with butter. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of the remaining bread crumbs. Continue this process, layering the phyllo, until all the phyllo and bread crumbs are used (a small amount of melted butter should remain).

6. Starting with the long side of the phyllo, spoon the reserved seafood filling to within 1 inch of the long edge and the side edges. The seafood should cover about half of the remaining rectangle. Beginning with the filled side, roll the dough jelly-roll fashion, using the parchment paper as a guide and a sling. Once rolled, tuck in the ends to seal. Again using the parchment as a sling, transfer the roll to the prepared baking sheet, placing the strudel seam side down. Brush with the remaining butter.

7. Bake the strudel 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then slice on the diagonal into 6 pieces. Arrange the slices like a pinwheel on a large platter and serve family style, or place on individual dinner plates. Garnish with fresh tarragon.

Cook’s Hints: To blanch the spinach, plunge the leaves into boiling water for 15 to 30 seconds, or until they turn bright green and wilt slightly. Immediately transfer to an ice bath to stop the cooking process. To make unseasoned dry bread crumbs, place a single layer of white or whole-wheat bread slices on a baking sheet and bake at 300°F for about 10 minutes, or until the bread turns light brown and dries completely, turning once. Allow the bread to cool, then place it in a food processor or blender and process until the crumbs reach the desired texture.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.