Tarragon-Tinged Sole Fillets

November 30, 2011

Tarragon-Tinged Sole Fillets

Wine Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

One afternoon, after trolling the fish stands at the Pike Place Market for the freshest catch of the day, I brought home a generous serving of glistening Petrale Sole fillets and had to figure out what to do with a fish that, frankly, I rarely cook. So with a small bag of good-quality, sea-salt-studded potato chips at the ready, I let my imagination run wild and created the following loosely constructed “recipe.”

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and set aside.

2. Rinse and thoroughly pat dry about one-and-one-half pounds of petrale sole fillets.

3. Mix one-half cup each crushed good-quality potato chips with one-half cup of panko (Japanese) bread crumbs. Add about two tablespoons of freshly chopped tarragon, a dash of cayenne, and salt to taste (you might not need any at all, depending on the salt level in the chips). Pour onto a dinner plate and spread out into an even layer.

4. In a medium mixing bowl, with a fork or a whisk, stir together one large egg and two or three tablespoons of milk. Dredge the sole fillets through the egg wash and pat in the crumbs.

5. Place about one tablespoon of unsalted butter on the foil-lined baking sheet. Place the baking sheet in the oven and allow the butter to melt and turn light brown. Watch the oven carefully and do not allow the butter to burn or it will be bitter.

6. Arrange the fish fillets without crowding over the baking sheet and cook seven to 10 minutes, or until the fish just flakes and the crust is crispy. Do not turn the sole fillets during cooking.

7. Divide the fish among four or six dinner plates (depending on appetites!) and serve immediately.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Spicy-Red Mussels

October 31, 2011

Spicy-Red Mussels

Wine Varietal: Cabernet Franc

Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer

Found the world over and grown commercially in the Pacific Northwest, mussels are plentiful, inexpensive, versatile, and easy to cook. Local Penn Cove and Mediterranean mussels are especially appealing.

2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded just before cooking

1/2 cup dry white wine or water

2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 teaspoon minced jalapeño pepper or 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, crumbled

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup minced plum tomatoes

1/4 cup firmly packed unseasoned soft bread crumbs (See Cook’s Hint, below)

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley, plus extra parsley sprigs for garnish

1. In a large stockpot or Dutch oven with a lid, combine the mussels, water, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, cover, and cook until the mussels open, 5 to 7 minutes. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to redistribute the mussels. With a slotted spoon, remove the mussels that have opened, and continue cooking the remaining mussels 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove the open mussels and discard any that do not open.

2. If desired, strain the mussel liquid through several thicknesses of dampened cheesecloth and save for use in another recipe. When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the shells and reserve. Break each shell into two half shells and save a fourth of the shells, choosing the largest and most attractive ones. Evenly space the shells on a baking sheet, and arrange two mussels in each half shell. Set aside the baking sheet while preparing the filling. Preheat the broiler and arrange the oven rack so that it is 3 to 4 inches from the heat source.

3. In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, jalapeño, and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the tomatoes, bread crumbs, cheese, and parsley. Divide the stuffing among the mussels, pressing down so that it forms a layer over the shellfish. Broil until the filling is warmed through and lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes.

4. To serve, place the mussels on a large communal platter or divide among individual plates. Garnish with parsley sprigs.

Cook’s Hint: To make unseasoned soft bread crumbs, tear a slice of white or whole wheat bread into chunks, place in a food processor, and process until crumbs form. The crumbs can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week; in the freezer, tightly wrapped, they keep for about six months.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Wild Mushroom Butter with Crostini

September 30, 2011

Wild Mushroom Butter with Crostini

Wine Varietal: Pinot Noir

Makes 1 1/2 cups

In the spring and fall, Northwest forests burst into life with wild mushrooms sporting lyrical names—chanterelles, morels, hedgehogs, black trumpets. When paired with sweet butter, a touch of garlic, and a hint of Cognac, their musky flavor makes a distinctive appetizer dip.

1/2 pound fresh wild Northwest mushrooms, such as chanterelles, morels, black trumpets, hedgehogs, and/or porcini, or a mixture of several varieties

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and cut into thin slices

2 teaspoons minced fresh marjoram or 1 teaspoon dried marjoram, crumbled

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons Cognac or dry Sherry (optional)

1. Wipe the mushrooms with a soft-bristled brush to remove any traces of dirt or pine needles, then chop them coarsely.

2. Melt 1/4 cup of the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat and add the mushrooms and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mushrooms absorb the butter and begin to shrink, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the marjoram, salt, and pepper, stirring well. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms shrink and the garlic is tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the mushrooms from heat and allow to cool.

4. Place the remaining 1/2 cup butter in a food processor or blender and pulse briefly. Add the mushrooms, pan juices, and Cognac and pulse until the mixture is well blended but the mushrooms still have a bit of texture. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

5. Scoop the mushroom butter into an attractive ramekin or bowl, smooth the surface, cover, and refrigerate 1 hour or, preferably, overnight, to allow the flavors to meld.

6.  Remove the mushroom butter from the refrigerator 1/2 hour before serving. Prepare the crostini. Place the ramekin in the center of a large plate or platter and surround with the crostini.

Cook’s Hint: Toss leftover butter with hot, cooked pasta; melt over cooked fish, pork, or chicken; or freeze for up to six months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight before using.

Crostini

1 narrow loaf French or Italian bread, sliced 1/4-inch thick

1. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and place 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Remove from the oven and serve warm or at room temperature.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Merry Berry Medley

August 31, 2011

Merry Berry Medley

Wine Varietal: Raspberry or Blackberry Fruit Wine

Serves 6

Berry season runs long and strong in the Northwest, beginning with small, sweet local strawberries in late spring and ending with local cranberries in the fall. A mix of these sweet gems sprinkled with a crunchy-oat topping, baked, and served warm from the oven epitomizes the bounty of summer.

4 cups mixed berries, such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries

1/2 to 3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

3/4 cup quick-cooking oats

1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon allspice

Pinch salt

1/4 cup butter, room temperature and cut into small chunks

Strawberry ice cream or frozen yogurt (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 6-cup baking dish or casserole. In a mixing bowl, gently stir together the berries, 1/2 cup of the granulated sugar, the lemon juice, vanilla, and tapioca. Taste and add remaining 1/4 cup sugar if needed. Let stand 15 minutes, then pour fruit into baking dish.

2. Mix together oats, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, allspice, and salt in a mixing bowl. With a pastry cutter or your hands work butter into dry ingredients until crumbly. Sprinkle topping evenly over the berries.

3. Cook crumble for 30 to 40 minutes, or until top is golden brown and fruit is bubbly at the edges.

4. To serve, spoon crumble into individual bowls and top with ice cream.

Recipe from Braiden Rex-Johnson’s private collection.

Seared Albacore Tuna with Feta, Olives, and Tomato

July 31, 2011

Seared Albacore Tuna with Feta, Olives, and Tomato

Varietal: Pinot Noir

Serves 4

This recipe comes from the culinary department at King Estate Winery in southern Oregon. It makes use of one of the Northwest’s best summertime catches—albacore tuna—in a Mediterranean-leaning sauce redolent with salty/tangy feta cheese, Roma tomatoes, kalamata olives, and fresh oregano. Pair it with the earthy/smoky/spicy flavors of your favorite Oregon Pinot Noir.

4 tablespoons olive oil

4 (6- to 7-ounce) albacore tuna steaks, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

Kosher salt

Freshly cracked black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1/2 pound fresh spinach leaves

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

8 plum tomatoes, cored and chopped

1 cup (about 6 ounces) kalamata olives, pitted and halved lengthwise

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons fresh chopped oregano, or 2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Greek, crumbled

6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the tuna steaks lightly on both sides with salt and pepper.

2. When the oil just begins to smoke, place the fish in the skillet without crowding and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Place the tuna in the oven and cook 4 to 5 minutes (for medium rare), or to desired doneness.

3. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the garlic and shallots and cook, stirring often, until the shallots are translucent but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the spinach a handful or two at a time, turning with kitchen tongs and adding more spinach as it cooks down, until all the spinach is lightly wilted. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and the lemon juice.

4. Divide the spinach among 4 warmed dinner plates. Remove the fish from the oven and arrange 1 tuna steak over each bed of spinach.

5. Working quickly, return the hot tuna skillet to the stove over medium-high heat and cook the plum tomatoes, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes begin to break down, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the olives, white wine, and oregano and cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine is reduced by half, 1 to 2 minutes.

6. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the feta. Spoon the sauce around the tuna and serve immediately.

Northwest Niçoise Salad

June 30, 2011

Northwest Niçoise Salad

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir

Serves 4

This hearty main-dish salad combines the best ingredients from Northwest shores and fields with a classic French dish to form an intriguing hybrid. Wine pairing is versatile, too!

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for oiling pan

1 pound small new potatoes (1- to 1 1/2-inch diameter), scrubbed and cut in half

1/2 pound asparagus, hard ends removed, remaining portion rinsed, drained, and patted dry, OR 1/2 pound sugar snap peas, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

1/2 pound baby carrots, peeled and patted dry, OR 1/2 pound regular carrots, peeled, patted dry, and cut lengthwise into quarters, then crosswise into 2-inch lengths

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups water

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon dried tarragon, crumbled

1 1/2 pounds salmon fillet, rinsed, drained, patted dry, and bones removed

1 tablespoon good-quality regular or lowfat mayonnaise

1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/2 pound mixed salad greens, rinsed, drained, and well dried

1. Preheat the oven to 475°F.

2. To roast the vegetables, lightly oil a baking sheet and arrange the potatoes, asparagus (or sugar snap peas), and carrots in a single layer without crowding.

3. Drizzle the vegetables with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, then with 1 tablespoon of the balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook 12 to 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and slightly charred, turning the vegetables once or twice during cooking. Remove the vegetables from the oven and allow to cool on the baking sheet.

4. To poach the fish, bring the water, wine, and tarragon to a boil in a skillet large enough to hold the salmon without crowding. Remove from the heat, add the salmon fillets skin side down, reduce the heat to low, and return the skillet to the heat.

5. Partially cover (put a lid on the skillet slightly askew so that the steam can escape), and simmer very gently, until the salmon just turns opaque, 5 to 10 minutes (about 8 to 10 minutes per inch of thickness). Adjust the heat if the water simmers too fast or too slow. Do not allow the water to boil.

6. Remove the fish fillets and place on several layers of paper towels or a clean kitchen towel to drain well and pat dry. When cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skin and any remaining pin bones.

7. Just before serving, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, the remaining 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, and the mayonnaise and mustard to a large mixing bowl and whisk to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the salad greens to the bowl and toss gently.

8. To serve, place the dressed greens in the center of individual plates and place a salmon fillet in the middle of each bed of greens. Divide the potatoes, asparagus, and carrots around the edges of the plates in a pleasing pattern and serve immediately.

Chilled Strawberry Soup

May 31, 2011

Chilled Strawberry Soup

Varietal: Late-Harvest Riesling

Serves 4 to 6

This interesting dessert-soup recipe comes from my colleague and friend Sharon Kramis, who has been singing the praises of home cooks using local, seasonal produce in their daily meals for many years. Sharon was a student of the late James Beard, and spread his (and her) philosophy through her popular cooking classes and cookbooks such as “Northwest Bounty” (Sasquatch Books, 1999). More recently, she and daughter Julie Kramis-Hearne have co-authored books on cast-iron and Dutch-oven cooking. Sharon is also a long-time consultant with the Anthony’s Homeport restaurants, where she continues to champion the use of the freshest, farm-grown produce and seafood. Serve this “best-of-the-season” strawberry soup with homemade croutons (see the Cook’s Hint, below) when local strawberries are at their sweet peak of perfection.

4 cups fresh strawberries, stems removed and sliced

1 fresh banana, peeled and cut into 4 pieces

1 cup freshly squeezed orange or canned pineapple juice

1 cup light sour cream

1 tablespoon raspberry liqueur or raspberry syrup

2 ice cubes

6 sprigs fresh mint, for garnish

1. In a food processor or blender, pulse the strawberries, banana, orange juice, sour cream, and raspberry liqueur until smooth.

2. Add the ice cubes and swirl briefly to chill the liquid, removing the ice cubes before they melt completely. (Warning: Do not crush the ice!)

3. To serve, divide the soup among small, chilled bowls. Garnish with mint sprigs and serve immediately.

Cook’s Hint: Serve the soup with pound cake “croutons.” To make the croutons, cut a pound cake into 1/2-inch cubes until you have about 1 1/2 cups. Preheat the broiler, then toast the cubes, turning once to brown on two sides. Float the croutons on top of the bowls of soup before serving.

Recipe reprinted from the “Pike Place Market Cookbook: Recipes, Anecdotes, and Personalities from Seattle’s Renowned Public Market” (Sasquatch Books, 2003, $18.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Scandinavian Salmon

April 30, 2011

Scandinavian Salmon

Varietal: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Melon

Serves 6 to 8

I was skeptical when the owners of Panther Creek Cellars in Oregon’s Willamette Valley suggested Scandinavian Salmon could be paired with Pinot Noir, but the earthiness of the dill and in the fish (be sure to use wild salmon not farm-raised!) works well with similar notes in the wine. Pinot Gris and sparkling wine are other suggested pairings, although Melon—the same grape as France’s Muscadet, also known as Melon de Bourgogne—is a more intriguing possibility. According to the winery’s Web site, “The dry, yet fruity wine finds a passionate following among lovers of shellfish and seafood. In the nose of this varietal you’ll often find pear, citrus, and peaches. On the palate, it’s richly textured, with flavors of pear, peach, and apricot, and just a touch of sea salt.” The wine’s slight salinity helps it pair perfectly with seafood, especially the Northwest’s own native fish, salmon.

1 English cucumber

3 pounds wild salmon fillet, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

2 lemons, very thinly sliced

1 large bunch of dill

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. With a vegetable peeler, peel the cucumber in long strokes and save the skins. Cut the cucumbers into thin rounds and reserve.

3. Line a large baking sheet with heavy-duty aluminum foil, placing one sheet of foil crosswise across the baking sheet, allowing enough excess foil on both sides to be folded across the fish. Run another sheet of foil lengthwise, again allowing enough excess foil to fold over the fish. Place the salmon skin side down in the center of the foil. Cover the fish with the cucumber skins, placing the white portion of the skins toward the fish.

4. Cover the cucumber skins with half of the lemon slices and top with half of the dill. Bring the ends of the lengthwise foil up around the top and bottom of the fish, fold neatly to seal the fish, then repeat with the other ends of foil until the fish, cucumber, lemon, and dill are completely enclosed.

5. Place the baking sheet on the center oven rack, and cook 50 to 55 minutes, or until the fish is opaque throughout, depending on the thickness of the fish and the desired doneness. Remove the packet from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes. Open the foil carefully to allow the steam to escape. Scrape off and discard the cucumber skins, lemon, and dill. Using a long, thin spatula, position the side edge of the spatula against the fat layer between the salmon flesh and skin. Move the spatula through the fat layer so that the flesh comes away from the skin. Transfer the salmon to a large serving plate and discard the skin and foil.

6. Just before serving, season the salmon to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with the reserved cucumber slices and the remaining lemon slices and dill, and serve family style.

Cook’s Hint: If desired, the salmon can also be cooked on a gas grill over medium heat.

Recipe reprinted from “Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia” (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Sea Scallops with Spiced Carrot-Dill Sauce

March 31, 2011

Sea Scallops with Spiced Carrot-Dill Sauce

Varietal: Riesling

Serves 4

Chef Jerry Traunfeld is a James Beard award-winning chef and owner of Poppy restaurant in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. For years he served as executive chef at The Herbfarm restaurant in Woodinville, Washington, and is also the author of two cookbooks. He very generously gave me this recipe for inclusion in “Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining.” When asked about a wine pairing with this vibrantly colored, gently herbed and spiced seafood entrée, Jerry quickly replied, “Without question, this is a Riesling dish!”

2 cups fresh carrot juice (available at health-food stores, juice bars, and select grocery stores)

1/2 cup white wine

1/4 cup diced shallots

One 2-inch piece cinnamon stick

2 star anise pods

2 whole cloves

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning

Freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 pounds fresh or thawed untreated (dry pack) sea scallops (See Cook’s Hint, below)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill

1. Pour the carrot juice and white wine into a medium saucepan and add the shallot, cinnamon stick, star anise, cloves, the 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a few grindings of pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until it is reduced to about 1 cup, 25 to 30 minutes. Set it aside while you cook the scallops.

2. Pull off the small white piece of muscle that is attached to the side of the scallops (some may not have it) and discard. Pat the scallops very dry on paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

3. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in the olive oil and carefully add the scallops, flat side down, in a single layer without crowding. Cook, without turning, until the bottoms turn a deep brown color, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and brown on the other side, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer the scallops to a warm plate and let them rest while you finish the sauce.

4. Bring the sauce back to a simmer over medium heat and add the lemon juice. Whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Place a fine-meshed sieve over the top of a blender container, and strain the sauce, pressing the solids with the back of a large spoon to remove as much of the sauce as possible. Discard the solids and blend the sauce for 30 seconds, or until smooth. Pour the sauce back into the saucepan and stir in 3 tablespoons of the dill.

5. Arrange the scallops on 4 warm serving plates. Ladle the carrot sauce around them and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon dill.

Cook’s Hint: Whether using fresh or previously frozen sea scallops, it is important to use “dry pack” scallops, or the scallops will not brown (caramelize) properly, and will instead steam in their own juices. Scallops that have been treated with phosphates during processing absorb water. Not only do they not cook properly, but they lack the fresh, sweet, and briny sea flavor of their dry-packed cousins. Sea scallops that are uniformly white in color, or that are displayed surrounded by juice, are most likely treated.

Recipe reprinted from “Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia” (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Dungeness Crab and Pine Nut Lasagne

February 28, 2011

Oregon’s beautiful Willamette Valley wine country

Dungeness Crab and Pine Nut Lasagne

Variety: Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris

Serves 8

This recipe comes from Nick’s Italian Café, which sits behind a modest storefront on the main drag in downtown McMinnville in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It’s so versatile you can pair it with Pinot Gris or Noir—or order a bottle of both and see which suits you better!

8 cloves garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

10 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter

1/2 pound white mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced

1/4 cup sifted all-purpose flour

4 cups hot whole milk

3/4 pound fresh or dried lasagne noodles

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

9 to 12 ounces Dungeness crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage and patted dry on paper towels to remove excess liquid

1/4 cup (1 ounce) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1/4 cup (1 ounce) freshly grated Pecorino-Romano cheese

1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese

3/4 cup pine nuts

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the garlic cloves in the center of a medium piece of aluminum foil, drizzle with the oil, fold the foil into a packet, and roast for 45 minutes, or until the garlic is soft. Mash the garlic into a paste and set aside.

2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

3. Melt 8 tablespoons of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 1/2 minutes. Whisk in the hot milk and simmer gently, stirring often and reducing the heat if needed, until the sauce is as thick as heavy cream, 30 to 35 minutes.

4. About 15 minutes before the béchamel is finished cooking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fresh lasagne noodles and cook until barely tender, 3 to 4 minutes. If using dried noodles, cook as the package directs. Drain and separate the noodles and set aside.

5. To finish the sauce, stir in the garlic paste, lemon zest, and salt. Remove the pan from the heat and cover the surface of the béchamel sauce with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming.

6. To assemble the lasagne, grease a 13 by 9-inch baking dish with the 1 teaspoon butter. Line the bottom of the dish with one third of the lasagne noodles. Scatter the crab over the noodles, spread one-third of the béchamel on top, then sprinkle with half the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano cheeses. Cover with another one-third of the noodles, scatter the reserved mushrooms on top, add dollops of ricotta (use all the ricotta), and spread another one-third the béchamel on top. Cover with the remaining noodles, spread the remaining béchamel on top, sprinkle with the remaining grated cheeses, and scatter the pine nuts on top.

7. Bake for 30 minutes, or until bubbling and golden brown on top. Allow to rest for 10 minutes (so the lasagne can set up), then slice and serve.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

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