Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette
Varietal: Pinot Noir

Serves 4
This recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining was created by Kevin Davis, chef/owner of Steelhead Diner in Seattle’s famous Pike Place Market. It showcases two of the Northwest’s iconic ingredients: fresh, wild salmon and dried cherries and would be perfect to try with the first run of Northwest salmon from the Columbia River. Pair it with another Northwest icon—Oregon Pinot Noir—which mirrors the lush berry, earthy, and smoky flavors in the dish. Some of my favorite Oregon Pinot Noir producers include reasonably priced versions such as Willamette Valley Vineyard’s amazing Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir (which winery founder Jim Bernau characterizes as “Pinot Noir candy”) or luxury-priced Pinots from Domaine Serene and Archery Summit.
Macerated Cherries

1 cup dried cherries (Chukar brand preferred)

1 cup port or Madeira
Four 8-ounce Yukon River King salmon or other wild salmon fillets (center cuts preferred)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled

Freshly grated zest of 1 orange

1 cup smoked almonds, lightly crushed (Blue Diamond brand preferred)
1. To prepare the Macerated Cherries, place the dried cherries in a heatproof nonreactive bowl. Bring the port to a boil and pour over the cherries. Cover with plastic wrap and steep for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately.

2. Prepare a medium-low fire in a gas or charcoal grill. Brush the salmon with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the fillets on the grill skin side down away from direct heat. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turn the fish, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more (for medium rare) or to the desired doneness.

3. While the fish is grilling, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Cook until the butter turns brown and gives off a nutty aroma. This is called beurre noisette in French, and translates as “brown butter.”

4. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the chopped rosemary, orange zest, almonds, and Macerated Cherries (drained and patted dry) in that order, pausing between each addition and stirring gently to allow each ingredient to render it essence into the butter. Be careful when adding the first two ingredients, as the butter may sizzle and pop. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Place the salmon fillets on 4 dinner plates, top with the brown butter, and serve immediately.

Cook’s Hint: Wild king or Chinook salmon has a very high fat content and will tend to flame up if cooked too fast. It’s always a good idea to have a water bottle handy, just in case. Don’t leave the grill unattended at any time throughout the cooking process. Also, Chef Kevin has an easy way to prevent overcooking your fish. Simply turn the grill off when the fish is slightly underdone; this allows the carryover heat to finish cooking the fish.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Vietnamese Shrimp Rolls
Varietal: Riesling

Serves 4 as an entrée; 8 as an appetizer

These healthy shrimp rolls epitomize Vietnamese cuisine, which is characterized by the use of raw vegetables and light sauces—the perfect formula for springtime dining. They make a great appetizer (allow two per person) or main dish if you serve four per person and accompany with a hearty Asian-inspired soup or spicy vegetarian or chicken or shrimp stir-fry. Asian dishes often pair well with off-dry Rieslings. Washington State’s venerable Chateau Ste. Michelle is one of the world’s leading producers of the Riesling varietal, and makes several distinguished versions, including one of my favorites—Eroica—in conjunction with esteemed German winemaker Ernst Loosen. Another top producer is Long Shadows, which makes the always-lovely Poet’s Leap Riesling.

6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc nam)

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 1/2 pounds pink (bay or salad) shrimp, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

16 pieces rice paper

16 soft lettuce leaves, such as Bibb, red or green leaf, or iceberg

2 cups bean sprouts, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

2 cups shredded carrots

1/2 cup crushed unsalted peanuts

4 green onions, roots and tips removed, cut into 1/8-inch rounds

Fresh basil leaves or fresh mint leaves

Hoisin Dipping Sauce (Recipe follows)

1. In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the lime juice, fish sauce, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Add the salad shrimp and toss well to coat. Cover the bowl and refrigerate.

2. Take out 2 large plates and pour 1/4 inch warm water into one of them. Place 1 piece of rice paper in the water and soak for 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until pliable. Do not allow to soak too long or the rice paper will tear. Remove the rice paper to a dry plate, then repeat the process with the remaining rice paper sheets.

3. Place lettuce leaves around the perimeter of a large serving platter. Put the shrimp in a serving bowl and place in the center of the platter. Put the bean sprouts, carrots, peanuts, green onions, and basil leaves in separate piles around the shrimp.

4. To serve, place the rice paper, prepared platter, and Hoisin Dipping Sauce on the table and allow everyone to make their own shrimp rolls by lining a piece of rice paper with a lettuce leaf and adding vegetables, shrimp, peanuts, and basil leaves and folding or rolling to close. The shrimp rolls can then be dunked in the sauce.

Hoisin Dipping Sauce

Makes about 3/4 cup

6 tablespoons hoisin sauce

6 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce or low-sodium soy sauce

1. In a small mixing bowl stir together the hoisin sauce, seasoned rice vinegar, and soy sauce. If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate.

Recipe reprinted from the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook, Gift Edition (Ten Speed Press, 2005) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

GoldLeaf Breakfast
Varietal: Pinot Gris or Sparkling Wine

Serves 4
I first enjoyed this light, yet elegant breakfast dish during a Christmas-time train ride from Vancouver, British Columbia, to Banff, Alberta, aboard the Rocky Mountaineer. While a winter wonderland passed by our windows as we traversed the Canadian Rockies by rail, we sipped Sumac Ridge Pinot Gris and savored our lightly scrambled eggs wrapped in wild British Columbia smoked salmon, drizzled with dill crème fraîche, and topped with paddlefish caviar. Finely crafted British Columbia sparkling wines, such as Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Brut, Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Brut, or Blue Mountain Brut Sparkling Wine, would also make for festive pairings.
1 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons buttermilk
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill, plus extra sprigs for garnish
1/2 pound thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon (Note: Use cold-smoked, as opposed to hot-smoked, salmon for this dish.)
12 large eggs
Pinch of kosher salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 ounce domestic (trout or paddlefish) caviar
1. At least 1 day before you plan to serve, mix the cream with the buttermilk in a small, clean glass jar with a lid. Let stand at room temperature (about 70°F) without disturbing for 8 to 24 hours, or until the cream thickens. Stir well, cover, refrigerate, and use within 10 days. Ten minutes before serving, remove the crème fraîche from the refrigerator and stir in the minced dill.
2. Line the inside of 4 small ramekins or custard cups with plastic wrap. Line each bowl evenly with the smoked salmon, covering all areas completely, but being careful not to layer the salmon too thickly. Cover the ramekins loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3. Whisk the eggs, salt, and pepper together in a large mixing bowl. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat until it foams. Add the eggs and cook, stirring frequently to allow the eggs to cook, until medium-firm, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Immediately fill the salmon-lined ramekins with the eggs, pressing down firmly to mold the eggs.
4. To serve, place a dinner plate over each ramekin, hold the plate firmly over the ramekin, turn it over, and unmold, removing and discarding the plastic wrap. Drizzle each with 1/4 cup of the crème fraîche and 1/4 ounce of the caviar. Garnish with a sprig of dill and serve immediately.
Cook’s Hint: If you do not want to make your own crème fraîche at home (although it is a fun “science project” that every curious cook should try at least once) simply substitute the store-bought variety.
Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson. Available at Amazon.

Chipotle Chocolate Cake
Varietal: Lemberger

Serves 8 to 12

This intensely chocolate-y cake will remind you of the ones your mother and grandmother used to whip up at a moment’s notice, it is so easy to make and foolproof. Serve it to your sweetheart on Valentine’s Day with a bit of crème fraîche and extra cocoa powder sprinkled on top. And of course, don’t forget to crack open a bottle of Lemberger, whose bright fruit and spicy finish pair so well with the red wine, chipotle pepper, and cinnamon in the cake. Leading Washington producers of this rather obscure wine varietal include Paradisos del Sol (whose winemaker/owner Paul Vandenberg shared this recipe for Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining), Kiona Vineyards, Latah Creek, Covey Run, and Thurston Wolfe.

3 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup Dutch-processed cocoa, plus extra for sprinkling on the cake
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground chipotle
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cups water
3/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons red wine
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling on the cake

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, salt, chipotle, and cinnamon. In a small mixing bowl, mix together the water, oil, red wine, and vanilla.

2. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add the wet ingredients, and stir just until combined. Do not overmix, or the cake will be tough.

3. Pour the batter into an ungreased 9 by 12-inch baking pan and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick or wooden skewer inserted in the middle comes out with just a few crumbs remaining.

4. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes, loosen the sides of the cake with a knife, and turn the cake out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and additional cocoa just before slicing and serving.

Smoked Salmon Tartare
Varietal: Rosé or Sparkling Wine

Serves 4 as an appetizer.

This recipe, from DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine in the Pike Place Market, makes an easy appetizer any time of year because it contains just a handful of ingredients and requires no cooking. In the summertime, serve it with a slightly chilled dry Rosé; over the winter holidays or for that special someone on Valentine’s Day, pair it with a sparkling wine from the Pacific Northwest. Leading producers include Domaine Ste. Michelle and Mountain Dome (Washington), Argyle Cellars and Domaine Meriwether (Oregon), Ste. Chapelle (Idaho), and Summerhill and Sumac Ridge (British Columbia).
1/2 pound thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon (Gerard & Dominique brand preferred)

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon capers, well drained

1 to 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 tablespoons minced fresh chives

1 tablespoon minced fresh lemon thyme, or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled, plus

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Crostini (recipe follows) or mild-flavored crackers

1. On a cutting board, stack the salmon slices several slices high and cut into 1/4-inch cubes. Using a rocking motion, slice across the cubes until they are slightly smaller, but not puréed, forming 1/8-inch cubes; the salmon should still have some texture. In a medium nonreactive mixing bowl, gently stir together the salmon, olive oil, capers, and 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice. Taste and add more lemon juice if needed.

2. Add half the chives and half the lemon thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Divide the tartare among 4 small ramekins or ring molds with bottoms. Place a salad plate over the ramekin or ring mold, then invert and turn the tartare out onto the plate. If using ring molds without bottoms, place the mold on the plate, spoon in the tartare, and remove the mold. Sprinkle the remaining chives and lemon thyme over the tartare, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to meld and the tartare to chill.

4. Serve with the Crostini.

Crostini

1 narrow loaf French or Italian bread, sliced 1/4-inch thick

1. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and place 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Broil 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown and crispy. Remove from the oven and serve warm or at room temperature.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Steamed Salmon Cantonese Style
Varietal: Pinot Gris

Serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as an entrée

This recipe is a customer favorite at Wild Ginger Asian Restaurant and Satay Bar, a perennially popular fixture across the street from Benaroya Hall in downtown Seattle. Owners Rick and Ann Yoder started the place just down the street in 1989; since then it has served authentic dishes from all over Asia—China, Cambodia, Indonesia, and Vietnam. When salmon is steamed with fresh ginger, fish sauce, and premium rice wine, it takes on a creamy texture that cannot be duplicated with any other cooking method. As a final step, hot, garlic-infused oil is poured over the salmon to flavor the fish and sear in the juices (see Cook’s Hint, below). Pair the steamed salmon with a crisp white wine, such as Pinot Gris. Light straw in color (sometimes with a hint of a copper hue), Pinot Gris is full of apple, pear, and citrus fruits, often with a whiff of honeysuckle and vanilla. Its lively, mouth-coating texture cuts through the oily texture of the salmon and complements its spicy topping.

3 cups water
Two 4-ounce salmon fillets, pin bones removed, rinsed, drained, and patted dry
1/2-inch length fresh ginger, very thinly sliced
2 tablespoons Shao Hsing rice wine or mirin (see Cook’s Hint, below)
2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
2 to 3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 clove garlic
2 green onions, root and top 2 inches removed, remaining portion very thinly sliced (julienned)
2 sprigs cilantro, for garnish

1. Prepare a steamer basket or, to steam in a wok, cross two chopsticks in an X, then cut a groove in the lower chopstick so that the top one fits snugly. Set the chopsticks in the wok and add water to 1 inch below the level of the chopsticks. Place the lid on the wok and turn heat to high.
2. Place the salmon, skin side down, on a glass pie plate or rimmed glass plate slightly smaller than the diameter of the wok. Cover with ginger slices. Pour the rice wine and fish sauce over the fish.
3. When the water is boiling, remove the lid from the wok and position the plate containing the salmon and seasonings on top of the chopsticks. Replace the lid and cook 7 to 8 minutes, or until the salmon just turns opaque and begins to flake.
4. Two to three minutes before the salmon is done steaming, heat the peanut oil in a small skillet over high heat. When the oil is very hot, add the garlic and cook until browned. Discard the garlic, but do not turn off the heat until you use the oil; it must be very hot to sear the fish properly.
5. When the salmon is cooked, transfer it to a warm plate. Place the green onion strips on top of the fish and immediately pour hot oil over the fish and onions. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and serve immediately.

Cook’s Hint: The technique of using hot, seasoned oil over steamed or baked fish is known as flavor smoothing and helps force the flavors of the seasoning into the fish. You can vary the flavor of the seasoned oil by substituting minced garlic, chopped fresh basil leaves, or chopped cilantro. Mirin is a staple in the Japanese kitchen, a sweet, low-alcohol, golden wine made from glutinous rice. It is available in Japanese markets and the Asian section of most supermarkets.

Recipe courtesy of Rick and Ann Yoder, as printed in the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook, Gift Edition (Ten Speed Press, 2005)

Blue Cheese-Cherry Salad with Raspberry Vinaigrette
Varietal: Merlot

Serves 6

Many people think it is difficult to pair wine with salads. But “bridge” ingredients, such as walnut oil, grated cheese, toasted nuts, or minced herbs, can help link the greens with the wine. In this recipe, which comes from Washington winemaker Kay Simon of Chinook Wines in the Yakima Valley, the “bridge” ingredients include cherries (marinated in red wine) and blue cheese. Try the salad with Chinook Merlot, which displays aromas and flavors of black fruits (blackberry, black cherry, black plum) along with a bit of earth and herbs (mint!). Chinook’s Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Franc Rosé also form intriguing pairing possibilities.

4 ounces unsweetened dried cherries or 4 ounces fresh Bing or sweet cherries, rinsed, patted dry, pitted, and cut in half
4 to 6 tablespoons fruity red wine, such as Merlot or Cabernet Franc
2 tablespoons raspberry white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons honey or granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning
1/3 cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil, such as a Spanish or Italian oil
2 heads butter lettuce, rinsed, spun dry, and torn into bite-sized pieces (about 9 cups)
1/2 head radicchio, rinsed, spun dry, and torn into bite-sized pieces (about 3 cups)
1/2 small red onion, sliced 1/8-inch thick, and separated into rings
1/2 cup crumbled Oregon or Maytag blue cheese, Roquefort, or Gorgonzola

1. Place the cherries in a small bowl, cover with wine, and marinate 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, whisk together the raspberry vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, honey, pepper, and salt until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the oil a few drops at a time, incorporating well after each addition, until the sauce becomes smooth and shiny (emulsifies). Taste and add more salt if necessary.
3. Place the lettuce, radicchio, and onions in the mixing bowl. Drain the cherries, discard the wine, and add the cherries to the bowl. Toss gently until the vinaigrette lightly coats the greens.
4. To serve, divide the salad among individual plates and sprinkle with the cheese.

Alaskan Spot Prawns with Saffron Couscous and Ginger Vinaigrette
Varietal: Gewürztraminer

Serves 4

Alaskan spot prawns are the Northwest’s answer to East Coast lobster, but I much prefer the small, sweet nubbins of flesh from the Pacific Coast. They’re addictive! In the recipe that follows, local “spots” are simply boiled in the shell (for extra flavor), removed from their shells, then arranged over a bed of golden couscous (perhaps the worlds’ most simple-to-make side dish) perfumed with musky saffron. The dish is drizzled with a light, refreshing ginger vinaigrette that pairs perfectly with the spicy notes in a good Northwest Gewürztraminer. Chopped mint and cilantro add the final intriguing touches.

1 1/2 pounds Alaskan spot prawns, rinsed, patted dry, and cut up the back with kitchen shears
1 1/4 cups water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup couscous
Ginger Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
Chopped mint, for garnish
Chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the spot prawns, cover, and let the shellfish sit in the water until they turn pink and their tails just begin to curl. Drain immediately. When cool enough to handle, remove the shells and discard. Return the prawns to the saucepan (off the heat), cover, and reserve.
2. Meanwhile, bring the 1 1/4 cups water, the butter, salt, saffron, and white pepper to a boil in a small saucepan and stir well. Add the couscous and stir well. Cover the pan, remove from the heat, and let stand 5 minutes, or until the couscous is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Break up the couscous with a fork, cover, and reserve.
3. To serve, divide the couscous among four dinner plates. Arrange the spot prawns around the couscous, then drizzle the couscous and shellfish with the vinaigrette. Sprinkle with mint and cilantro.

Ginger Vinaigrette
Makes 1 cup
1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons canola, almond, or grapeseed oil

1. Place the rice vinegar, lime juice, honey, fresh ginger, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive mixing bowl and whisk until the honey dissolves. Add the canola oil a few drops at a time, whisking well after each addition, until the vinaigrette becomes smooth and shiny (emulsifies).

Cook’s Hint: If spot prawns are unavailable, then substitute sustainably farmed shrimp. Grilled scallops or any type of firm, fleshy whitefish (such as halibut) also work well.

Mussels Provençal
Varietal: Semillon

Chef, cookbook author, specialty-food producer, and owner of five Seattle restaurants, Tom Douglas is credited with putting Pacific Northwest cuisine on the map. Etta’s, his paean to the region’s local seafood bounty, is located just north of the Pike Place Market, where it attracts a fair share of locals and tourists alike. It’s the kind of casual place where you can get a wedge o’ iceberg lettuce with blue cheese dressing, a sashimi tuna salad with green-onion salad, or a whole wok-fired Dungeness crab, along with an enticing glass of Northwest wine (the wine list was designed by Market neighbor Michael Teer, owner of Pike and Western Wine Shop). This steamed mussel dish, an original creation from Chef Tom, is one of the most unique you’ll ever eat because of the addition of shiitake mushrooms and kalamata olives to the tomato-white wine broth. I like to pair it with a crisp, dry white wine, such as a Semillon. Light to medium straw in color, sometimes with a hint of green in the glass, Semillon has a bracing, supple texture. Its grassy, herbaceous aromas and citrus and pear fruit flavors, combined with a flinty finish, cut through the strong, complex flavors in this rich, herb-filled dish.

1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and discarded, caps thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes
24 oil-cured olives, such as kalamata or niçoise, pitted
4 teaspoons chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as rosemary, sage, thyme, and/or parsley
2 1/2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded just before cooking
1/4 lemon cut into 2 wedges
1 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
Four sprigs of fresh rosemary and thyme
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until small bubbles form. Add the mushrooms and cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic, tomatoes, olives, herbs, and mussels. Squeeze the lemon wedges over the contents of the pan and throw the wedges into the pan. Add the white wine, butter, and rosemary and thyme sprigs. Shake the pan or stir to mix well.
2. Cover and cook 5 to 7 minutes, or until the mussels open. Shake the pan occasionally during cooking to redistribute the mussels. With a slotted spoon, remove the mussels that have opened and continue cooking the remaining mussels 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove the open mussels and discard the rest. Taste the broth and season with salt and pepper, if desired. (I find the olives provide enough salt, and the garlic and lemon enough flavor, that the pepper isn’t necessary.)
3. To serve, divide the mussels, mushrooms, olives, and broth among individual bowls, or transfer to a large serving bowl. Be sure to provide seafood forks, a shell dish, and extra napkins for handy clean up.

Serves 4 as an appetizer; 2 as a light entrée

Recipe Courtesy of Chef Tom Douglas, as printed in the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook, Gift Edition (Ten Speed Press, 2005)

Oyster Chowder
Varietal: Chardonnay (Oaked)

Serves 4 as an entrée; 8 as an appetizer
Pure Northwest comfort food is created when fresh oysters and potato chunks swim together in a rich, creamy chowder. It’s the perfect dish for a gray, rainy day, when all you want to do is curl up by the fireplace with a warm blanket and a good book. This recipe pairs well with an oaky Chardonnay that has a creamy texture and silky mouthfeel. Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay fits the bill; it’s one of the most affordable and consistent wines you’ll find on Northwest wine shelves.

One 10-ounce jar freshly shucked oysters
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium leeks, about 3/4 pound, white part only, cleaned and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 cup diced (1/2-inch) white or yellow onion
2 or 3 Russet (baking) potatoes, about 1 pound, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 1/2 cups homemade vegetable or chicken stock or broth
1/2 cup half-and-half
2 cups whole or lowfat (2-percent) milk
1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
Ground sweet paprika, for garnish

1. Drain the oysters through a fine-meshed sieve placed over a bowl. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the oyster liquid.
2. In a stockpot or Dutch oven, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Add the oysters and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until they plump, turning once during cooking time. Remove the pan from the heat and put the oysters and any juice that accumulates in a small bowl. Cover, refrigerate, and reserve.
3. Return the pan to medium heat and melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Add the leek, onion, and potatoes and cook 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender-crisp, stirring occasionally. Do not allow the vegetables to brown. Add the stock, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are very tender. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
4. Place half the soup in a blender or food processor and pulse until smooth. Return to the stockpot along with the oyster liquid, half-and-half, milk, and Worcestershire sauce, and stir until well blended. Add the reserved oysters and accumulated juice and stir gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Warm the chowder over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, just until oysters are warmed through.
5. To serve, ladle the soup into individual bowls and sprinkle with paprika.

Recipe reprinted from Inside the Pike Place Market: Exploring America’s Favorite Farmers’ Market (Sasquatch Books, 1997)