Roasted Halibut with Shellfish Cioppino

Varietal: Pinot Gris

Serves 6

Cioppino (pictured above) is a classic seafood stew whose origins can be traced to the Italian fishers of San Francisco. Bouillabaisse is a similar tradition in France. You’ll enjoy the many kinds of seafood in this cioppino recipe from Mission Hill Family Estate in Westbank, British Columbia—everything from clams and mussels to spot prawns and octopus (!). And unlike many fishermen’s stews that are thick and tomato-based, this one relies on fish stock (or clam broth) and just a hint of tomato, plus the unmistakable flavors of fennel and crushed red pepper flakes, to create a gently perfumed, aromatic broth with a bit of a kick. The final crowning touch is the addition of one of the Northwest’s iconic fish, fresh halibut, which perches atop the cioppino. Pinot Gris is the preferred wine pairing here; it is generally a good choice with seafood, thanks to its lively texture and refreshing flavors of green apple and citrus.

2 tablespoons canola oil

Six 5-ounce halibut fillets

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 teaspoon fennel seed

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

1 small red onion, halved and sliced 1/8 inch thick

1 small red bell pepper, cored, seeds and membranes removed, and sliced 1/8 inch thick

1 Roma tomato, cored, seeded, and diced

1 cup homemade or store-bought fish stock, or 1/2 cup clam broth mixed with 1/2 cup water

1/2 cup Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Pinot Gris or other good-quality Pinot Gris

1 pound Manila clams, shells scrubbed and rinsed

1 pound mussels, shells scrubbed and rinsed and mussels debearded just before cooking

4 ounces cooked octopus, very thinly sliced

4 ounces Alaskan spot prawns or medium-sized shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut in half lengthwise

1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the canola oil. Arrange the halibut fillets flesh side down without crowding, and cook until the fillets turn a soft golden brown and caramelize, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn and cook until medium rare (still a bit translucent in the center), 2 to 4 minutes more, being careful not to overcook. If desired, remove the skin. Cover to keep warm, and set aside.

2. While the fish is cooking, make the cioppino. Heat a Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat and add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the fennel seeds and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Add the onion and red bell pepper and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the tomato, fish stock, and wine, stir well, and cook for 1 minute. Add the clams, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook for 4 minutes. When most of the clams and mussels have opened, add the octopus and prawns, cover, and cook until the prawns just turn pink and their tails curl slightly, 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and discard any clams or mussels that have not opened. Gently stir in the parsley, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Divide the cioppino among 6 soup or pasta bowls. Arrange one halibut fillet in the center of each bowl and serve at once. 

Petite Lamb Burgers with Red Wine Onions

Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon

Serves 8 as an appetizer; 4 as a main course

Woodinville Wine Country, just 15 miles outside of Seattle, is the perfect place to escape the city and spend the weekend wine touring, tasting, and relaxing. Barking Frog restaurant, conveniently located next door to the super-luxurious Willows Lodge, is a big part of the region’s success. Barking Frog has brought home awards for “Most Innovative Wine List” and “Washington Wine First” from the venerable Washington Wine Commission. In keeping with the wine, dishes on Chef Bobby Moore’s menu are earthy and full-flavored. The photo above is of him and me signing Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining and serving his famous Lamb Burgers to the happy guests at Barking Frog. Lamb Burgers make an intriguing alternative to beef burgers, with the added attraction of a peppery bite from the toasted mustard seed. A Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon will bring out the best in these toothsome packets of pleasure.

Roasted Garlic Mayonnaise

3 to 4 cloves roasted garlic, finely chopped to a smooth paste measuring 2 teaspoons

1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Pinch of ground white pepper, to taste

1/4 cup homemade or prepared mayonnaise (Best Foods or Hellmann’s brand preferred)

Red Wine Onions

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup dry red wine

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 medium red onion, very thinly sliced

Petite Lamb Burgers

1 pound lean ground lamb                                   

1/2 cup minced white or yellow onion                       

1/4 cup mustard seed, toasted (See Cook’s Hint, below)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

8 small dinner rolls (about 2-inch diameter), cut in half and toasted

1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) grated Gruyère cheese

1. To make the Roasted Garlic Mayonnaise, in a small bowl, stir the garlic, lemon juice, and white pepper into the mayonnaise. Cover and refrigerate until serving.

2. To make the Red Wine Onions, in a small saucepan, bring the vinegar, wine, and sugar to a simmer.  Place the onions in a small nonreactive mixing bowl and pour the hot liquid over the onions, making sure all the onions are submerged in the liquid. Cool to room temperature and set aside. 

3. For the Lamb Burgers, in a medium mixing bowl, combine the lamb, onion, mustard seed, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

4. Divide the meat into 8 equal portions and form into patties about the same diameter as the dinner rolls you will serve them on. Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the burgers without crowding, cooking in batches if needed, until browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side; then reduce heat to medium-low and cook until they reach the desired doneness, turning once or twice, 4 to 5 minutes more.

5. To serve, spread 1 to 2 teaspoons of the garlic mayonnaise on the bottom half of each roll and top with about 1 tablespoon of the drained onions. Place the burgers over the onions, sprinkle the cheese on the burgers, and top with the remaining roll halves. Serve warm.

Cook’s Hint: To toast mustard seed, place the seeds in a small skillet (with a lid) over medium heat. Stir with a wooden spoon until the seeds begin to pop. Cover with the lid, remove from the heat, and allow to cool.

Oysters Gratinée

Varietal: Semillon, Champagne, or Sparkling Wine

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Philippe Boulot, executive chef at the venerable Heathman Restaurant (adjacent to The Heathman Hotel in downtown Portland) is the kind of guy who thinks nothing about doing a 10-course dinner at the venerable James Beard House in New York City—in which every course incorporates oysters! The classic dish below—oysters baked in a creamy cheese sauce—could well have been in the line-up, it is so rich and satisfying to the soul. Pair it with a crisp, dry white wine, such as Semillon or my choice—Champagne or Sparkling Wine—for a New Year’s day buffet or any time when Northwest oysters, such as Pacific, Olympia, European Flats, Kumamotos, or Virginicas, are in their prime.

20 fresh Pacific Northwest oysters, such as Westcott Bay European Flats, Kumamoto, Kushi, or Pacific

Rock salt

1 pound leeks, chopped (green parts only)

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) grated Swiss cheese

1 large egg yolk

1. With an oyster knife, shuck the oysters over a mixing bowl to catch all the juices. Reserve the bottom (cupped) shell from each oyster. Set the oysters aside. To prepare the reserved oyster shells for stuffing, rinse the shells in hot water, drain, and pat completely dry. Place a layer of rock salt on a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the oyster shells cup side up without crowding. Set aside.

2. Add the oyster juice, leeks, and cream to a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the Swiss cheese, stir well, and allow to cool. Once cool, whisk in the egg yolk.

3. Ten minutes before cooking, preheat the oven to 450°F. Divide half the leek mixture among the prepared oyster shells, cover with an oyster, and divide the remaining leek mixture over the tops of the oysters. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the oysters are cooked through but still tender and the sauce is slightly browned.

4. To serve, place a fresh layer of rock salt on a decorative platter or 4 individual plates. Arrange the oysters over the rock salt and serve immediately.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Blue Cheesecake

Varietal: Syrah, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc

Serves 12 to 16

One of Washington State’s hottest boutique wineries, Rulo Winery was created by Kurt and Vicki Schlicker, who moved from California to the Walla Walla Valley to fulfill their winemaking dream. Kurt, the winemaker, crafts gorgeous white wines—Viognier, Chardonnay, and white blends—as well as Syrah and red blends. Originally titled Gorgonzola Cheesecake, this recipe originated at Paragon restaurant in Portland, but Kurt and Vicki have personalized it over the years and I’ve added a few Northwest touches, such as hazelnuts and Oregon Blue Vein cheese.

You can serve it as a rustic appetizer with crostini and crackers, but I like slicing it into narrow wedges and serving it with fresh fruits of the season as a savory dessert or cheese course. Pear or quince paste is also a tasty accompaniment. Blue Cheesecake is so versatile, it pairs well with either a red wine, such as Syrah, or a white, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier.

1 1/2 cups water

1/2 cup medium-grind cornmeal

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 tablespoon dried basil, crumbled (optional)

1 1/2 teaspoons herbes de Provence, crumbled

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

Three 8-ounce packages cream cheese, at room temperature

1/2 pound Oregon Blue Vein, Oregonzola, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, or other high-quality blue cheese, cut into chunks, at room temperature

3 large eggs

1/4 cup (1 ounce) freshly shredded Parmesan cheese

1 head garlic, cloves separated and roasted (See Cook’s Hint, below)

1/2 cup whole hazelnuts, pine nuts, or almonds, toasted

Crostini or crackers, for serving, optional

1. Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Slowly stir in the cornmeal, stirring in one direction to avoid lumps, then add the garlic, basil, if using, herbes de Provence, and salt. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until smooth and creamy, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as necessary so the polenta doesn’t overcook or bubble up and splatter, 12 to 15 minutes.

2. While the polenta is cooking, place the cream cheese and blue cheese in a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs one at a time and mix by hand (if you are very strong!) or beat with an electric mixer until the eggs are thoroughly incorporated. Set aside.

3. Arrange the oven rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly oil a 9-inch springform pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

4. When the polenta is done, remove it from the heat and stir in the Parmesan cheese. Let cool for 5 minutes. With a rubber spatula, press the polenta into the bottom of the prepared springform pan and set aside.

5. Pour the reserved cheese filling evenly over the polenta crust. Tap the pan lightly on the counter to remove any air bubbles. Squeeze the garlic cloves from their skins and arrange them around the perimeter of the pan at equal distances. Sprinkle the hazelnuts evenly in the center of the cheesecake.

6. Place the cheesecake on a baking sheet to catch any drips, transfer to the oven, and bake for 1 hour, or until the cake springs back when lightly jiggled and the internal temperature on an instant-read thermometer reaches 160°F. Cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour.

7. To serve, release and remove the sides of the springform pan. Serve the cheesecake warm or at room temperature, cut into slices as an appetizer or spread onto crostini or crackers for a more rustic look. The cheesecake can be covered and kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week (its flavors meld and deepen the longer it sits). If serving from the refrigerator, slice and warm it in a 350°F oven or microwave briefly before serving.

Cook’s Hint: To roast individual cloves of garlic, preheat the oven to 375°F. Remove as much skin as possible from each clove, place in a small baking dish without crowding (a pie plate also works well for this), cover tightly with aluminum foil, and bake until the garlic is very tender and easily squeezed from the skin, 35 minutes.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Lamb Loin Stew with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Butter Beans

Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon

Serves 4

Mike Neuffer, a successful third-generation homebuilder from Reno, Nevada, who’s had a lifelong passion for wine and describes himself as” a part-time cellar rat,” just felt like he was home when he first discovered the Walla Walla Valley in 2000. He bought the  parcel of land that would become Nicholas Cole Cellars in 2001, planted estate grapes, and waited for his first harvest in 2005. Meanwhile, assisted by mentor and friend Chris Camarda of Andrew Will Winery fame, the two used grapes from some of the best vineyards in the state to craft carefully blended, Bordeaux-style red wines.

Today, he makes award-winning wines under both the Nicholas Cole and GraEagle labels. The winemaker’s lamb stew—a toothsome, Mediterranean-leaning concoction of lamb, sun-dried tomatoes, and buttery-big beans—is one he has served at all of his Holiday Barrel Taste Weekends, although “stew” may be a bit of a misnomer, since it’s a refreshingly quick-cooking dish. Mike reports, “It has garnered rave reviews from my customers, some of whom have threatened bodily injury if I refuse to share the recipe with them. The second year I had it printed up and available upon request.” Serve with a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon and feel your body warm and spirits rise against the winter gloom.

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups chopped yellow onion

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 pound boneless lamb loin, trimmed and cut into 1/3-inch strips

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning

10 sun-dried tomato halves packed in oil, drained and cut into thin strips (San Remo brand recommended)

1/2 cup chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, stacked and rolled like a cigar and cut into thin strips

1 15-ounce can butter beans, rinsed and drained

1. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until softened but not browned, 1 minute.

2. Increase the heat to medium-high. Add the lamb and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Cook until browned on the outside but still pink within, 1 to 2 minutes per side. 

3. Add two-thirds of the sun-dried tomatoes, the stock, and one-half of the basil and stir well. Cover and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes.

4. Add the beans, remaining sun-dried tomatoes, and remaining basil and stir well. Cook until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Ladle the stew into 4 bowls, garnish with the fresh basil leaves, and serve.

Cook’s Hint: Mike suggests that rabbit, duck, beef, or venison can be substituted for the lamb in this dish; chicken and pork are too bland. Homemade lamb stock or store-bought veal demi-glace also work well in place of the chicken broth. The dish is wonderful to serve company when accompanied by crusty artisan bread and a simple green salad. To extend the stew to serve more than four people, serve it over egg noodles, plain rice, or couscous (in keeping with the Mediterranean flavors), or accompanied by new potatoes roasted with olive oil, garlic, and fresh rosemary.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Roasted Duck with Honey-Cranberry Sauce

Varietal: Merlot

Serves 4

Duck and red wine make a natural pairing, and when you throw one of my favorite ingredients into the mix—dried, sweetened cranberries (sometimes referred to as “craisins”)—the “wow” factor goes up incrementally. This original recipe I created for my Wine Press Northwest food-and-wine-pairing column is easy enough for everyday dining, yet elegant enough for company. A touch of balsamic vinegar adds a complex sweetness, while Dijon mustard gives the sauce a subtle punch. Try the duck with a berry-rich, yet mellow Merlot. In the nose and on the palate, when quaffing Merlot, look for both sweet and black cherries, blueberries, and plums followed by musky hints of cigar box, chocolate, and leather. A whiff of mint or cedar/wood and a soupçon of sweet spices, such as nutmeg or cardamom, may also be present in these luscious, velvety wines.

1/2 cup dried cranberries

2 whole boneless duck breasts, split and trimmed of excess fat and nerve tissue

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 cup dry red wine

1/2 cup honey

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed or frozen orange juice

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the cranberries in a small bowl, cover with hot water, and allow to sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes.

2. With the tip of a very sharp knife, score a criss-cross pattern at 1/4-inch intervals across the skin side of the duck breasts. (Do not cut all the way through into the meat.) Season the duck breasts on the flesh side only with salt and pepper. Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon of allspice over the flesh side only of each breast.

3. Heat a large, ovenproof skillet (nonstick works well for this) over low to medium-low heat. When the skillet is hot, arrange the breasts skin side down without crowding. (Don’t add any extra fat; the fat rendered will be enough to cook the breasts.) Cook, draining the melted fat if needed, until the fat is rendered and the skin is crisp and brown, 8 to 12 minutes.

4. Turn the breasts, cook 1 to 2 minutes, and transfer to the oven. Cook 5 to 6 minutes more (for medium rare).

5. While the breasts are cooking, make the sauce. Heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat and add the wine, honey, orange juice, and balsamic vinegar. Stir until the honey dissolves and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced slightly, 6 to 8 minutes.

6.  Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Drain the cranberries and discard the liquid, then stir the cranberries into the sauce. Cover and keep warm until serving.

7. When the duck breasts are done, remove from the oven and transfer (skin side up) to several thicknesses of paper towels to drain any extra fat. Let rest 5 minutes before slicing each breast on the diagonal into even pieces.

8. To serve, arrange the sliced duck breast in the center of a dinner plate. Spoon the sauce and berries over the duck and serve immediately.

Dungeness Crab Flan

Varietal: Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Dulces Latin Bistro is a neighborhood bistro located in the Madrona neighborhood of Seattle, a quiet residential area centrally located between downtown and Lake Washington. The husband-and-wife team of Carlos Sainz (host and sommelier) and Julie Guerrero (chef) owns the Mediterranean/Mexican-leaning space which features 1,000 labels on its wine list and has won the “Best of Award of Excellence” award from Wine Enthusiast magazine numerous times. Carlos specifically recommends two wines with Julie’s crab flan, a luscious garlic-y custard topped with the Northwest’s own fresh crab: Forgeron Cellars Chardonnay from Washington’s Columbia Valley or (crossing the ocean) Bruno Hunold Pinot Blanc from Alsace, France. One of my favorite Northwest-produced Pinot Blancs is made by Adelsheim Vineyard in the Willamette Valley.

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup heavy whipping cream

4 egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Dash of freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces Dungeness crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage

1 Roma tomato, cored, seeds removed, and diced

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly butter four small ramekins or custard cups.

2. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk the garlic, cream, egg yolks, salt, and pepper. Divide the custard mixture among the ramekins. Arrange the ramekins without crowding in a water bath, cover with foil, and bake 40 minutes, or until the custards are set in the middle and a knife inserted in the middle comes out clean.

3. While the custards are baking, gently toss the crabmeat with the tomato and cilantro, cover, and reserve.

4. Allow the custards to cool slightly, then unmold onto four small plates. Divide the crab mixture over the custards and serve immediately. The custards can also be prepared ahead, allowed to cool, covered, and refrigerated until serving, then served chilled.

Raspberry Shortcake with Rose Geranium Cream

Varietal: Dessert Wine (Late-Harvest Riesling)                                                           

Serves 8

For 17 years, Chef Jerry Traunfeld cooked at the venerable Herbfarm restaurant, famous the world over for its nine-course, prix-fixe dinners and wine pairings centered around regional, seasonal ingredients and a bounty of fresh herbs from the restaurant’s massive kitchen garden. In late 2007, he left to open his own restaurant, Poppy, named after his mother. Both restaurants emphasize the use of fresh herbs in the creative dishes, such as this super summer shortcake napped with rose-scented cream. Pair the dessert with a sweet, viscous, aromatic wine, such as a Late-Harvest Riesling, and toast to the bounty of summer! Leading Northwest producers include Kiona, Hogue, and Washington Hills, all from Washington State.

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into four pieces

1 cup sour cream

1/2 cup whole milk

Rose Geranium Cream (Recipe follows)

4 cups (2 pints) fresh raspberries

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and reserve.

2. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, the 1/4 cup sugar, and salt in a medium mixing bowl. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or two crisscrossed knives until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in the sour cream and milk.

3. Drop the dough in eight mounds onto the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake for 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. Transfer the biscuits to a wire rack to cool slightly before splitting.

4. To serve, cut the biscuits in half horizontally. Put the bottom halves on dessert plates and spoon large dollops of Rose Geranium Cream over each. Cover with berries, letting them spill out the sides, and replace the biscuit tops. Serve immediately.

Rose Geranium Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream

12 large fresh rose geranium leaves

1. Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the rose geranium leaves, cover, remove from the heat, and allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Strain into a small mixing bowl, pressing the solids with a wooden spoon to force out as much cream as possible. Discard the rose geranium, cover the cream, and refrigerate until completely chilled.

2. Just before serving, whip the chilled cream to medium-soft peaks.

Cook’s Hint: To measure flour in this recipe, Jerry recommends spooning the flour into the measuring cup, then leveling it off with a straight edge (such as a kitchen knife). To be even more precise, measure your flour using a kitchen scale; it should weigh 9 ounces.

Recipe reprinted from the Pike Place Market Cookbook, Second Edition (Sasquatch Books, $18.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Kay’s Cherries in Red Wine
Varietal: Dessert Wine (Ruby Port)

Serves 6

Kay Simon, co-owner with her husband Clay Mackey of Chinook Wines, is not only a talented winemaker, but a gifted cook who uses the foods of the season to create inspired original recipes. Here, she marinates fresh summer cherries in a Merlot-Brandy syrup flavored with cinnamon and lemon. The cherries make a lovely topping for sponge cake or chocolate cake, or simply enjoy them with a dollop of crème fraîche and a glass of Ruby Port, whose berry notes mirror the berry flavors in the marinated fruit.

2 cups Merlot or other dry red wine

1 cup granulated sugar

1 3-inch-long cinnamon stick

Zest of 1 medium lemon

Juice of 1/2 medium lemon

2 tablespoons Brandy

2 pounds fresh Bing or sweet cherries, rinsed, patted dry, and pitted

Homemade or store-bought sponge or chocolate cake

Fresh mint sprigs

1. In a small, nonreactive saucepan combine the Merlot, sugar, cinnamon stick, lemon zest, lemon juice, and Brandy until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid reduces slightly and reaches a light syrup-y consistency, 20 minutes. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick and cool the syrup.

2. Place the cherries in a medium nonreactive bowl with a tight lid and pour the cooled syrup over them. Cover and marinate the cherries at least 1/2 hour and up to 2 hours at room temperature, turning several times. For longer storage, place the cherries in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

3. To serve, slice the cake and position the slices in dessert bowls or wine goblets. Divide  the cherries and syrup over the slices, add a dollop of crème fraîche, and top with the mint sprigs.

Grilled Asparagus with Hazelnut Vinaigrette and Pinot Noir Syrup
Varietal: Rosé or Pinot Noir

Serves 4

This lovely grilled asparagus recipe comes from Holly Smith, chef/owner of Café Juanita in Kirkland, Washington. It showcases several of the Northwest’s iconic items, including asparagus (known as “Yakima grass,” for it grows so quickly in the eastern part of Washington State during the summer months), hazelnuts (Oregon grows 97 percent of the country’s crop), and Pinot Noir. Perfect for summertime entertaining, the dish pairs nicely with either a slightly sweet Rosé or a young, berry-rich Pinot Noir.

2 pounds asparagus, hard ends removed, remaining portion rinsed, drained, and patted dry

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Hazelnut Vinaigrette (Recipe follows)

Pinot Noir Syrup (Recipe follows)

2 tablespoons toasted hazelnuts, chopped

1. Preheat the grill or broiler.

2. Toss the asparagus in the olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

3. Grill or broil the asparagus, turning occasionally, until just tender (do not overcook!), 3 to 6 minutes (depending on thickness).

4. To serve, divide the asparagus among individual plates. Drizzle with the Hazelnut Vinaigrette and Pinot Noir Syrup, then sprinkle with the hazelnuts and serve warm or at room temperature.

Hazelnut Vinaigrette

Makes 3/4 cup

1 shallot, minced

1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1/4 cup hazelnut oil

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1. Place the shallot, mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar in a large bowl and whisk in the hazelnut oil and olive oil a few drops at a time until the mixture turns thick and smooth, then season to taste with salt. Alternatively, place the first four ingredients in a blender or food processor, pulse a few times to blend, then add the oils in a slow, steady stream until the sauce turns smooth and thickens slightly. Season to taste with salt.

2. Pour the sauce into a bowl or jar. If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate for later use.

Pinot Noir Syrup

Makes 2/3 cup

5 tablespoons organic granulated sugar or regular granulated sugar

1 bottle (750 milliliter) good-quality Pinot Noir or other red varietal, such as Merlot or Zinfandel

1. Melt the sugar in a large, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan over medium-high heat, without stirring, until the sugar turns golden. This will take 3 to 5 minutes, but watch carefully, since the sugar can burn quickly.

2. Carefully and slowly add one-quarter of the wine, which will bubble vigorously, stirring up the sugar mixture from the bottom of the pan. If desired, wear oven mitts to protect your hands from splatters. Add the remaining wine, bring to a boil, and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened and reduced to about 2/3 cup, 20 to 25 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat, cool at room temperature, and place in a glass jar or bottle. The syrup will thicken as it cools, and can be stored at room temperature for several months.

Cook’s Hint: When making the Pinot Noir Syrup, Holly prefers using organic instead of nonorganic granulated sugar. She explains, “Organic sugar melts and caramelizes quickly because it contains less water, plus it’s a beautiful pale golden color. I find it has a finer taste that’s less sweet in some ways than regular granulated sugar.”

Recipe reprinted from the Pike Place Market Cookbook, Second Edition (Sasquatch Books, $18.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.