We recently enjoyed a media dinner at the newest location of Racha Thai & Asian Kitchen, located in the updated Westfield Southcenter in Tukwila, Washington. General manager Punya Tipyasothi, our old friend and manager Plutthiphong (Sprite) Srigrarom, and Chef Lek have created a menu filled with eye-catching and flavor-packed dishes from Thailand and other southeast-Asian countries. 

Here’s the Crispy Whole Fish–pompano the night we dined–served with Tamarind-Sriracha Sauce, Fried Ginger, and Hot Basil. Boy, was it good!

Other dishes we enjoyed were the Seven-Spice Calamari  Sticks (deep-fried, lightly breaded squid steaks with a Mae Ploy sauce) and the Asian Duck Salad (mixed baby greens with snow peas and water chestnuts and a generous sprinkling of cooked duck meat, all lightly dressed with rice vinegar). 

Dessert didn’t disappoint. Here is the gorgeous sampler plate, which included Ginger Crème Brulee, Green Tea Tiramisu, Mango Cobbler, and Banana Chocolate Cake.

And here’s the new restaurant’s stunning interior. 

I say forget the shopping, and bring on the eating, at the new Westfield Southcenter. 

To celebrate our autumn birthdays (which are within 11 days of each other), Spencer and I selected Canlis for our joint celebration. While the meal didn’t live up to our memories of Canlis’s glory days under our friend and fellow Pacific Northwest food writer Greg Atkinson (we missed the Mrs. C Salad, Greg’s wonderful way with fresh vegetables, and the dishes–such as the Caesar Salad–that used to be prepared tableside), a few of our choices still proved to be classics.

Here is Spencer’s New York Pepper Steak, served medium-rare as requested with Truffle Fries and a half bottle of Ridge (California) Zinfandel. 

And luckily, Canlis still serves their Grand Marnier Soufflé, a labor-intensive, tough-to-time dessert with a side of Crème Anglaise. 

General Manager Mark Canlis also sent over Canlis’s seasonal dessert offering: Concord Grape Sorbet and Pinenut Polenta Cake, which is definitely worthy of becoming one of the restaurant’s “new” classics. 

After seeing Chef Michael Bruno in action at the Sunset Supper in August, preparing his classic Paella in a giant paellera (paella pan) for the crowd of thousands, we were inspired to visit Tango to sample through more of his Spanish-inspired menu. 

We began with one of the Hot Tapas, the truly inspired Queso Azul–mini fallen blue-cheese soufflés (pictured in front of the bottle of wine)–a heady combination of sweet and savory thanks to the addition of a thick Port Wine Syrup and a chunky fruit compote. YUM!

This paired nicely with our selection from the Ensaladas and Sopas (Salads and Soups) section of the menu. Beet Escabeche proved to be lavish slices of pickled beets circling a hearty quinoa salad studded with grape tomatoes and fresh veggies of the season, all drizzled with walnut vinaigrette. 

After such generous starters, we opted to share one of the larger plates from among the Frutas del Mar. Grilled Tuna was perfectly grilled to medium rare (important with this meaty fish, so that it doesn’t turn into a baseplate!) and served atop sautéed baby bok choy with a red grape and tomatillo relish. We were struck by Chef Michael’s interesting combination of flavors and cuisines, and lauded his generous use of fresh vegetables.

We paired our dinner with a bottle of the stunning Muga 2004 Reserva, a hearty blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha (Grenache), and Mazuelo (a varietal new to us). As it promised in the wine list’s tasting notes, the wine was “voluptuous, intense, and spicy with complex silky-ripe fruit and an impressionable finish.”

We left Tango more than satisfied and sated and only rued not having room for one of Seattle’s all-time best desserts: El Diablo. This “bittersweet cube of sinfully rich dark chocolate graced with cayenne, spicy almonds, cocoa nibs, and burnt meringue, finished with a tequila caramel sauce” promises to make even the faint of heart shout, “Òle!”

Wayne Johnson, long-time executive chef at Andaluca in the Mayflower Park Hotel, just returned refreshed and rejuvenated from a trip to Spain, where he picked up ideas and inspiration for his new Pintxos (small plates) menu. 

After sampling through almost a dozen of the offerings, we were convinced that Chef Wayne is doing the best work of his career. From the Gazpacho Trio (creamy almond soup and refreshing shaved grapes served in small cocktail glasses, cucumber soup with very thinly sliced romaine and crab meat, and tomato soup with goat cheese and a grilled prawn) to Seafood Risotto (with halibut, salmon, and shrimp) to Harissa Green Beans (simply steamed green beans with spicy harissa sauce, garlic, Maldon sea salt, and shaved Iberico cheese), every beautifully designed little plate sang. 

Here are the green beans, along with the Broken Egg Papas Frites (thin fries and roasted mushrooms draped with an over-easy fried egg!) and the Crisp Duck cake (served with apricot chutney and cucumber raita). 

And here are the Spicy Calamari and Assorted Marinated Olives, along with the duck cake and green beans. 

Among the most amazing of Chef Wayne’s small plates is the Lamb Burger Meatballs, pictured below. Somehow, some way, the chef manages to place a soft-boiled egg inside the meatball and cook both to perfection. Salty feta, creamy olive aïoli, and crispy onions make boldly flavored counterpoints. 

Pintxos even show up on the dessert menu, where we enjoyed both the Lemon Olive Oil Cake with Thyme Cream (below) and the Chocolate Nut Tart with Cherry Gelato. 

We ordered wines by the glass, including a traditional Spanish Cava (Sumarroca Brut), Cortijo III 2006 Rioja, and Borsao 2004 Coupage, all good drinking values at $9 a glass.

The former Mistral space in Belltown on Blanchard Street, halfway between First and Second Avenues, has been reborn as Spur Gastropub, and the new entry is a very welcome addition to the neighborhood. The lofty prices and hefty attitude of Mistral have given way to an inviting historic space and expert service backed by a steady hand in the kitchen thanks to the chef team of Brian McCracken and Dana Tough. McCracken comes from a family of fisherman and farmers and has studied with some of the nation’s top chefs. Tough, the former Chef de Cuisine at Tilth restaurant, is most inspired by his local farmers’ crops like Bill & Steff’s tomatoes, arugula and peaches from Billy Alstott’s Farm and Annie’s French heirloom melons and cape goose berries from King’s Garden. According to their media representatives:

Brian and Dana first met working together under Maria Hines at Earth & Ocean. Schooled in techniques from around the world, these chefs have polished a cooking style where sustainably conscious dishes feature farm-to-table, native ingredients on a menu where a ham sandwich is not a “croque” and a casserole is not a “cassoulet”. Look for signature dishes like the duo’s Pork Belly Sliders (with Smoked Orange Marmalade, Arugula and Mustard) and seasonal rotations like Pan-Seared Trout (with Mizuna, Farro and Almond). Spur nods to the area’s pioneer, fisherman and occasional outlaw roots. Spur will feature a rotating photo exhibit projected on restaurant walls.

From the first moment, we were on board thanks to our knowledgeable server, Bree, who we remember from Campagne (where she also works). She advised us on which wines went best with our choices and how much food to order. 

We began with Mussels and Clams with Butter, Parsley, and Chicheron (fried pork skin) and weren’t disappointed. Salads were stellar, from something as simple and flavorful as Spencer’s choice–Heirloom Lettuces with Champagne Vinaigrette, Pine Nuts, and Ricotta Salata–to my Baby Chiogga Beets with Chèvre, Arugula, and Pistachio.

The Pan-Seared Trout was a study in creative contrasts thanks to the addition of slightly bitter/peppery mizuna, sharp mustard, and crunchy almonds. The Charred Bison Burger with Provolone and Aïoli, served with a heap o’ thin-cut shoestring potatoes, was the real deal for meat lovers. 

Although sated, at Bree’s suggestion, we opted to split the Sous Vide Strawberry Ice Cream and weren’t disappointed. This essence of berry was topped by the perfect plump, local berry and underlined with coconut crunch, a light, crunchy counterpoint that reminded me of similar accompaniments we’d experienced at wd-50 in New York City.

The wine list ranges around the world with well-thought-out offerings. The only local wine by the glass is A to Z Chardonnay, although local bottles include Buty Sem/Sauv Blanc and Cab Franc/Merlot and Seia Horse Heaven Hills Syrah.   

Every so often Voilà Bistrot, Madison Valley’s little slice of sunny France, offers a themed dinner. In August we were lucky enough to experience the Provence & Languidoc-Roussillon dinner, complete with a three-course dinner ($45), wine pairings ($20 extra), and a live guitarist.

We most enjoyed chef/owner Laurent Gabrel’s Grilled Sardines, a duo of dollar-bill-sized beauties on a bed of buttery Swiss chard. Summer Vegetable Soup was light and lovely, rife with veggies of the season. 

Bouillabaisse was swimming with seafood and not overly tomato-y. Roasted Half Chicken with Fennel Gratin was simple and satisfying. 

Apricot Pie, all buttery crust with a layer of almond cream, sang of the season, while Pèche Melba boasted a large scoop of vanilla ice cream, a poached peach, and a fluffy dome of whipped cream. An assortment of cheeses from southern France rounded out the dessert selections on a savory note.  

Over the Labor Day weekend we had the pleasure of trying Juno, the new restaurant in the refurbished Arctic Hotel in downtown Seattle’s Pioneer Square neighborhood, for the very first time.

It’s a beautiful space with dark wooden booths, marble floors, and a full bar with warm Veuve-Clicquot-orange back lighting. An Heirloom Melon & Cucumber Salad with Elderflower Vinaigrette was a Day-Glo sculpture of melon balls and cucumber curls. Light and luscious!

Crab & Fig Salad suffered from too many elements. I would have preferred the organic greens with the sweet crab claws, crunchy Marcona almonds, and vanilla vinaigrette alone. Both the halved figs and Cabrales (Spanish blue cheese) overpowered the rest of the dish. 

My main of Dungeness Crab “Ravioli” with Sauternes Lobster Cream, Arugula, and PIne Nuts was simply sublime–one of the best things I’ve eaten in a long time. The dish was suggested by our overly perky server, whose constant description of everything as “perfect” quickly grew tiresome. 

A three- or five-course tasting menu is offered for $45 or $65, with accompanying wine flights for $15 or $25. Shrimp & Grits and Niman Ranch Ribeye were two of the savory courses, with a Mission Fig Tart (paired with McCrea Ciel du Cheval Rosé) for dessert. 

For dessert I chose one of the “Small Plates” which is actually normally served as an appetizer. Stilton Soufflé was a real egg soufflé, and the “perfect” (sorry!) after-dinner savory cheese course with its creamy texture, sweet pepper relish, and thinly sliced trio of grilled bread ovals.

Sour Cream and Basil Panna Cotta with Fresh Berries and Basil Purée combined sweet and savory elements to “perfection,” the sweet, dense pudding tamed by the anise-y basil. 

The wine list is substantial and rich with wines from around the world, as well as many excellent Northwest selections. We chose a 2006 Meursault and were not disappointed. 

Over a bottle of gracefully aging Giuseppe 2001 Amarone, we enjoyed the Pink Door’s Clams and Mussels appetizer. While I always love plump, Northwest-grown, Mediterranean mussels for their earthy flavor and tender flesh, I often find Manila clams to be overcooked, tough, and practically flavorless, more like boiled rubber bands than sublime shellfish. 

Not so at Pink Door, where exec chef Steve Szrinski, formerly head chef at Flying Fish, shows his prowess with seafood by making his tomato-sauced clams alternately juicy, sweet, and lush. 

Outstanding as well was the Whole Fish of the Day–Branzino with Pesto Sauce and Big Italian Beans the evening we were there–and the Northwest Fish of the Day–a gorgeous slab o’ seared swordfish with a rainbow ragu of seasonal veggies and a spicy red-pepper sauce.

Our favorite summertime dessert at the Pink Door, Lavender Panna Cotta, came with three sauces. I loved the Hibiscus (tangy-sweet), while Spencer preferred the deeply textured chocolate. The third offering was strawberry.

A Saturday evening at Portage, located in Seattle’s Upper Queen Anne, cater-corner from Opal and directly across the street from How to Cook a Wolf, proved a very pleasant evening as the small (30 seats), jewel-box restaurant offered pretty plates and pleasing price points in a oasis of calm, yellow-tinged walls punctuated by bird-themed artwork. 

An appetizer of Diver Scallops, Wild Mushrooms, and Sweet-Corn Truffle Salad offered perfectly seared, still rare-in-the-middle scallops in a rich brown mushroom sauce with top notes of sweet local corn. The Heirloom Tomato, Ash-Crusted Goat Cheese, and Fava Beans salad included thinly sliced tomatoes with goat cheese crumbles and not-quite-as-many favas as I craved.

The Stuffed Lamb Chop with Parsley Mousse was a beautifully frenched stack of three chops, while the Côte de Beouf with Périgueux Sauce, a lovely pile of medium-rare slices, would please any beef-eater.

Bouillabaisse offered mussels, clams, salmon, and white fish (lingcod and halibut, perhaps) in a subtly saffron-y/tomato broth mellowed with just enough butter and a rouille-brushed crostini. 

Desserts ran the gamut from a rich Vanilla Pot de Crème with an airy-light tuile cookie to Snoqualmie Creamery Pistachio and Double Chocolate ice cream of Strawberry-Champagne and Peach sorbet to Peach Tarte Tatin with Peach, rather than the promised, Crème Fraîche Ice Cream. 

The wine list skews French, but with some well-known and -loved Northwest bottles such as Patricia Green Cellars Four  Winds Chardonnay (Oregon), Whitman Cellars Narcissa Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley), and Owen Roe Abbott’s Table (Columbia Valley). 

This month, you can enjoy a Loire-Valley-inspired, three-course dinner at Cafe Campagne for just $34 per person. I particularly like this month’s offering, which includes Crispy Frogs’ Legs with Parsley and Garlic, Sockeye Salmon with Braised Artichoke Hearts, and White-Wine-Poached Peaches with Strawberry Cream. Here is the perfectly pink, perfectly cooked sockeye salmon, its skin perfectly seared and surrounded by a light sauce swimming with sliced baby fingerlings and artichoke hearts. A bottle of 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape paired nicely with the earthy flavors in the fish and buttery sauce.