A special appetizer sampler began a scrumptious meal at Tulio. We always marvel at chef Walter Pisano’s take on Burrata, the super-rich Italian Mozzarella cheese with a mound of cream in the middle. It sits perfectly amidst heirloom tomatoes sprinkled with housemade basil salt and drizzled with Trampetti EVOO. A lavish piece of calamari filet is grilled, then wrapped around Tuscan rice beans with parsley aioli. Baccala, or creamy salt cod, sidles up to tomato tapenade and olive-oil-crisped crostini.

Open just two months, Cellars Restaurant (located in the old Jai Thai space in Belltown) is clicking on all cylinders in the food department. The calamari appetizer is one of the best in town (watch out Serafina and Barolo!), lightly herb-breaded and sautéed squid rings and tentacles mixed with plum tomatoes, avocado, and spices and formed into a lovely mound, all napped with spicy red sauce. A daily special of Dungeness Crab Spaghetti delighted, and an ample Veal Chop rounded out a very pleasant dining experience. Curiously, for a place named “Cellars,” the only thing that needs some work is the wine list, where we’d like to see more Northwest options. We chose the always- enjoyable Mer Soleil Chardonnay and were not disappointed with its lush pineapple and tropical fruit aromas and flavors, deft use of oak, and LONG finish. Yum!

Some restaurants have the right vibe straight out of the gate, and Branzino is one of those. The former En space (which undoubtedly closed because we never saw anyone En-side) has been transformed into a rosy-warm space with dark wooden booths and an open kitchen, not unlike the décor at Belltown’s beloved Queen City Grill. No small coincidence since owner Peter Lamb founded that resto and also was long associated with Il Bistro in the Pike Place Market. Although you won’t find any actual branzino (Mediterranean sea bass) on the menu just yet, the Halibut “in Paper” with Summer Vegetables and Lemon was a paean to springtime (if a bit on the small side). The Veal Chop with Roasted Lemon, Pan Jus, and Gremolata was also a meager portion, especially at $36 a plate. A better and more generous version is offered uptown at Tulio, where it’s stuffed with mozzarella, creamy spinach, leeks, truffle oil, and crispy prosciutto. I loved the wine list, a varied selection with some of the world’s best: Trimbach Pinot Gris, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Grgich Chardonnay, Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Turley Zinfandel. Our own region shines with bottles from Sineann, Abeja, Ken Wright, Owen Roe, Andrew Will, and Quilceda Creek.

For a light, lovely summer supper, nothing beats the Sockeye Salmon and Spring Onion Kebab or the Washington Chicken, Yogurt, and Dill Kebab (or one of each!) at Lola.  Flamed in Ouzo, they emerge from the kitchen redolent of anise and awash in big flavors. Jackie’s Greek Salad (heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, red wine vinegar, a splash of good extra-virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of fresh herbs, and generous slices of barrel-aged feta)  forms the perfect side dish. Pair with a glass of good Northwest Rosé, such as the iconic Cabernet Franc Rosé from Chinook Wines. Another good one comes from Three Rivers Winery, where winemaker Holly Smith describes her wine thusly: “Our 2006 Rosé is made exclusively from Cabernet Franc grapes grown on our Biscuit Ridge and Three Rivers estate vineyards. The beautiful color was extracted within the first 24 hours after picking. Think of grandma’s homemade strawberry-rhubarb tart — take a sip and reminisce.This is a wonderfully dry Rosé made for summer sipping, pool parties and backyard barbeques. Serve well chilled.”