A Saturday evening at Portage, located in Seattle’s Upper Queen Anne, cater-corner from Opal and directly across the street from How to Cook a Wolf, proved a very pleasant evening as the small (30 seats), jewel-box restaurant offered pretty plates and pleasing price points in a oasis of calm, yellow-tinged walls punctuated by bird-themed artwork. 

An appetizer of Diver Scallops, Wild Mushrooms, and Sweet-Corn Truffle Salad offered perfectly seared, still rare-in-the-middle scallops in a rich brown mushroom sauce with top notes of sweet local corn. The Heirloom Tomato, Ash-Crusted Goat Cheese, and Fava Beans salad included thinly sliced tomatoes with goat cheese crumbles and not-quite-as-many favas as I craved.

The Stuffed Lamb Chop with Parsley Mousse was a beautifully frenched stack of three chops, while the Côte de Beouf with Périgueux Sauce, a lovely pile of medium-rare slices, would please any beef-eater.

Bouillabaisse offered mussels, clams, salmon, and white fish (lingcod and halibut, perhaps) in a subtly saffron-y/tomato broth mellowed with just enough butter and a rouille-brushed crostini. 

Desserts ran the gamut from a rich Vanilla Pot de Crème with an airy-light tuile cookie to Snoqualmie Creamery Pistachio and Double Chocolate ice cream of Strawberry-Champagne and Peach sorbet to Peach Tarte Tatin with Peach, rather than the promised, Crème Fraîche Ice Cream. 

The wine list skews French, but with some well-known and -loved Northwest bottles such as Patricia Green Cellars Four  Winds Chardonnay (Oregon), Whitman Cellars Narcissa Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley), and Owen Roe Abbott’s Table (Columbia Valley). 

This month, you can enjoy a Loire-Valley-inspired, three-course dinner at Cafe Campagne for just $34 per person. I particularly like this month’s offering, which includes Crispy Frogs’ Legs with Parsley and Garlic, Sockeye Salmon with Braised Artichoke Hearts, and White-Wine-Poached Peaches with Strawberry Cream. Here is the perfectly pink, perfectly cooked sockeye salmon, its skin perfectly seared and surrounded by a light sauce swimming with sliced baby fingerlings and artichoke hearts. A bottle of 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape paired nicely with the earthy flavors in the fish and buttery sauce.

Every now and then, Spencer and I make the pilgrimage across the bridge to Bellevue, Washington, to see a movie, make a wine run at Pete’s, or do some serious shopping at Bellevue Square. The luxurious Lincoln Square Theater offers the most comfortable seats and some of the best screens in the Seattle area, so a coupla Saturdays ago, we fled Seattle to go see “Brideshead Revisited,” eat lunch at Trader Vic’s, and restock the wine cellar at Pete’s. 

Whole strolling to our luncheon destination, we noticed that Manzana Rotisserie Grill, where we’d enjoyed a perfectly prepared Asian Chicken Salad during our most recent Bellevue adventure, had morphed into Palomino, part of the nationwide chain whose other outpost is in downtown Seattle in City Centre (U.S. Bank Center). As the tables turn. . .

Once seated at Trader Vic’s in the Tiki Bar, we felt as though we’d been washed ashore on a South Seas Island as we sipped Tropical Fruit Iced Tea and shoveled into salads composed of Blackened Ahi Tuna, Cucumber, Sugar-Snap Pea, Crispy Won Tons, and Sesame-Soy Dressing for me and Crab Cakes, Spinach, Avocado, Papaya, Oranges, Red Onion, and Chili Mango Dressing for Spencer.  

If we’d been hungrier, we might have opted for Trader Vic’s famous Bongo Bongo Soup (cream of spinach soup with oysters) or the Cosmo Tidbits for two (barbecue pork spareribs, crab rangoons, crispy Gulf prawns, and cha siu pork). In our younger days, we used to call this the Pupu Platter. 

If we’d have been thirstier (and not driving), we would definitely have tried the Taste of the Islands Sampler, which includes tastes of four Mai Tais–Original, Vodka, Lillikoi, and Mandarin, a veritable bargain at just 12 bucks. Mahalo! 

In mid-July, a winemaker dinner with Debbie and Justin Baldwin, proprietors of the Paso Robles winery Justin, proved a decadent delight. During Social Hour, Deborah’s 2007 Delight, a sweet, Muscat-based wine, paired perfectly with a Sweet & Spicy Shrimp Bistila (South American spices meet ground shrimp in a light, filo triangle) and Blue Cheese and Quince Paste Squares. A pasta course called, “Peas and Carrots” brought out house-made pappardelle (thickly-cut noodles) with a creamy, bacon-studded sauce brightened by English peas and carrots. A not-too-oaky 2007 Chard met its match in the creamy sauce and veggies. 

“Surf and Turf” was a twist on Tuna Tonnato, a canned-tuna-based sauce usually served over veal. Berkshire Pork subbed for the veal, while I asked for seared tuna, which was an inspired call with The Orphan, 2006. The Orphan is a red blend made of unused lots, but has turned into one of Justin’s most popular wines. 

We were all “Seeing Red” when braised ribeye formed the foundation for grilled rib eye and mixed seasonal vegetables. Isosceles 2004 was the match made in heaven for some (a big, bold wine that will last many more years in bottle) and Isosceles 2005 (a much more floral red wine) rang other’s diners’ bells. Both wines were opened at 4 p.m and served around 8:30! 

Dessert brought a trio of triumphs when paired with the Port-like Obtuse 2006, a dessert wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon (!). Mini Flourless Chocolate Cake with Blackberry Drizzle, Blackberry Panna Cotta with Chocolate Crème Fraîche, and Salted Candied Blackberries sent all of us off to very sweet dreams. 

On a recent sunny summer evening, the vibes (and parking) were right, and we finally made it over to Quinn’s on Capitol Hill, sister restaurant to one of our downtown faves, Restaurant Zoë. Chef and owner Scott Staples is clicking on all cylinders, from the newly expanded wine list (full bottles are now offered, in addition to a sizeable half-bottle list) to the pub’s zeitgeist (families, the black crowd, and old folks like us in the beautifully restored space) to the well-crafted, something-for-everyone offerings. 

Here’s one of the Large Plates, Buttermilk-Fried Chicken Breast with Rustic Potato Salad, Biscuit, and Foie Gravy. The airline cut of chicken was perfectly crisped and golden brown, the biscuit wasn’t buttermilk but more like an egg-washed scone, the foie-gras gravy speaks for itself, the rustic potato salad was about half composed of thick bacon bits, and the potato salad added a nice crunch. 

Small Plates included a truly inspired Seared Scallops with Butter-Poached Fingerlings, Baby Pea Shoots, Burnt-Caramel Sherry Caramel, and Popcorn (yes, ground popcorn!) dusting the pretty plate. You can see why the Wild Boar Sloppy Joe (with Crispy Sage Leaves, of course!) is a signature dish. . .pulled pork deluxe served on a brioche bun. Even something normally as simple as a Pear Salad grew special thanks to the addition of arugula, blanched green beans, and Stilton. Not to mention that the pears (cut crosswise) were hiding on the bottom of the plate under the greens and beans!

A bottle of McCrea 2006 Sirocco Blanc, an unusual but brilliant blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, and _____ paired perfectly with all the diverse dishes of the evening. 

After a rousing three hours of tasting through 31 Northwest (and one English) hard ciders for an upcoming article for Pacific Northwest, The Seattle Times’ Sunday magazine, Pike Place Pub owners Charles and Rose Ann Finkel, Spencer, and I popped across the street for dinner at Union.

Our appetites, primed by the dry, apple-y effervescence of the cider, called out for sustenance. And Union more than delivered, not to mention two memorable bottles of wine.

For a mere $50 per person, diners can choose two plates from among the Appetizers, Salads, Soups, and Pastas found on the left side of the menu; one dish from the Fish, Game, and Meat on the right-hand side of the menu; plus dessert.

Spencer and I adored our Baby Calamari with Haricots Verts, Hearts of Palm, Mizuna, and Aïoli (pictured above), while Rose Ann chose her favorite Carne Cruda (a carefully crafted mound of beef tartare) and Charles went for the Chilled Cucumber Soup with Smoked Mackerel, Goat Yogurt, and Radish. A lovely Tomato Terrine with Grilled Ricotta Salata (brilliant!), Fennel, and Taggiasca Olives was our server and friend, Kurt Krause’s, little bit of lagniappe that special evening. 

While I went for the healthy, and generous, portion of Mixed Baby Greens for my second course, other members of the group ooh-ed and aah-ed over the Fregola with Manila Clams, Chilies, and Parsley Pesto. I’ve had the dish before, and can only attest to its simple goodness. Kurt reported that, although already sold out the night we visited, the Potato Gnocchi with Lobster, Bacon, and Rosemary is quickly becoming a signature dish. 

Among mains, we were tempted by all the fish offerings, from Bluenose Bass to Fluke to Ocean Trout, but I decided on the Ahi Tuna with Tomatoes, Artichokes, Fennel, and Black Olives, which was perfectly seared and sauced. Rose Ann’s bass came with cauliflower, sweet pepper, and prawns in a bouillabaisse broth. The meat eaters (boys) in the group raved over Venison with Morel Mushrooms, Carrot Purée, and Blackberries (!) and Beef Strip Loin simply served with new potatoes, spinach, olives, and red-wine sauce. 

Dessert didn’t disappoint. While one could opt for his or her choice among five different cheese plates, the four of us went straight for the sweets. They included a nummy-looking Lemon Cake with Aged Balsamic, Almond Cake with Rhubarb Compote, and Frozen Chocolate Paté with Cherry Soup and Pistachio Brittle, my choice and worth every decadent calorie. 

A pricey, but oh-so-worth-it bottle of French Sauvignon Blanc, and a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, paired perfectly with all the outstanding dishes. It’s easy to see why Union has been hailed as, “One of the Top 103 Restaurants in the U.S.,” by Bon Appetít. 

During our recent condo flood, when it was too hot and noisy to cook at home, we found ourselves turning to Typhoon!, just half a block down the hill, for two memorable take-out dinners. Fresh Salad Rolls were just so clean and refreshing with a spicy, peanut-packed Peanut Sauce and a perfectly cooked shrimp hiding within the rice-paper wrapper. The Summer Salad (shredded white chicken, blanched asparagus, and baby greens) was lightly dressed and sang of the season. Salmon Cakes provided a nice punch of protein, although I’ve had better versions about town. On another evening, Summer Curry with Shrimp and Spinach, served over brown rice, filled our longing for something warm and comforting. 

The recent remodel the bar area has undergone works well, with new banquettes and draperies in the bar that are sophisticated, yet inviting. We’ll check out the restaurant and report back in a future post. 

The venerable Virginia Inn in the PIke Place Market recently re-emerged after a far-too-lengthy remodel. It looks better than ever. . .the space expanded to twice the original size with the beautiful tiled floor and brick walls intact, brilliant artwork lining the walls, and an air of familiarity and antiquity combined with contemporary charm. 

We enjoyed our lunch al fresco as the floor show that is First Avenue flew by. Here are the light and luscious crab cakes, which contained lots of Sherry-flavored, creamy crab dusted with panko (Japanese) bread crumbs and either baked or very lightly sautéed. Also noteworthy were the Mediterranean mussels in a white-wine broth that wasn’t overblown with butter. A glass of Rosé for me and Sauvignon Blanc for Spencer, and we were very happy campers. 

Our first experience at The Capital Grille was a positive one (see Northwest Notes Archives), but afraid our second one left much to be desired, not because of the food, but because of an over-zealous, overly friendly waiter named Patrick. Patrick began the evening by introducing himself and asking for our first names, then sticking out his hand and shaking both of ours. (Note to Patrick: In proper society, it’s the woman who extends her hand if she wants a man to shake it. And in any sort of polite company, a server should not offer his hand to his customers.) The strange experience continued when we ordered a bottle of Chardonnay and Patrick insisted we put it into an ice bucket. We were finally able to make him cease and desist, but the damage was done. Here’s the Grille’s Seafood Platter, which I enjoyed because of the half lobster. Oysters were a bit thin; probably shouldn’t have ordered this in June. 

I was the speaker at the Women for WineSense April meeting at Steelhead Diner in the heart of the Pike Place Market, and my slide-show presentation, reception, and dinner went swimmingly. Chef Kevin Davis pulled out ALL the stops, serving his famous Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette (a recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining), oysters on the half shell, Heirloom Beet Tartare, Sticky Chicken Skewers (another recipe from my book), House-Cured Bresaola with Hand-Stretched Mozzarella, among a long parade of incredibly tasty items.

Steelhead wine whiz Jessica Skye Bolt spared no expense by offering an array of 12 (count ‘em!) of the Northwest’s best and brightest wines, including Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling, Sleight of Hand “The Magician” Gewürztraminer, McCrea Sirocco Blanc, Syncline Rosé, Abacela Albariño and Port (!), Jigsaw Pinot Noir, and Sineann CJ (Zinfandel) Port. Here’s Chef Kevin talking up the crowd along with WWS Seattle Chapter President Terese Flaherty-Vaniman (standing, left) and Jessica Skye Bolt (center).

Speaking of Steelhead, we had a bang-up Fourth of July dinner there, which started with perfectly fried Crispy Little Eureka California Surf Smelt (with a yummy hot/sweet mustard vinaigrette) and half a dozen beautifully shucked Totten Inlet Virginica Oysters on the half shell with Frozen Mignonette (refreshing!). I opted for a half portion of the Red & Black Alaskan Troll-Caught Salmon with Roasted Corn, Sweet-Onion Salad, and Piquillo Pepper Salsa, while Spencer opted for the daily special of Spice-Rubbed Pork Ribs. 

Here’s our dessert: the perfect red, white and blue Buttermilk Pound Cake, a scrumptious composition of white chocolate pudding; real, old-fashioned (eggy, with perhaps a touch of cornmeal?!?!) pound cake, summer berries, all drizzled with Snoqualmie Farms Fireweed Honey. A bottle of Westrey 2006 “Oracle Vineyard” Pinot Noir, a berry-rich, lush, yet earthy Willamette Valley Pinot, paired perfectly with both entrées.

Speaking of wine (and you know I love to do that!), I get a kick the way the wine list (which is all Northwest) is printed on the back of the paper menu/placemats. But if you don’t see something you like there (hard to believe), ask for the “a” list (yes, it has a small “a” printed on the front). Among the choices? DeLille Cellars “Doyenne” Metier Blanc ($67), a vineyard-designate Beaux Freres Pinot Noir ($155), and àMaurice Cellars Malbec ($70).