Varietal: Syrah

Serves 8

This warm and filling vegetarian soup comes from the award-winning Rogue Creamery in southern Oregon. It uses Oregonzola, a Gorgonzola-style cheese, to add a creamy texture (much like heavy cream or half-and-half in more traditional soup recipes) as well as a distinct salty/tart taste. Oregonzola is aged a minimum of 120 days in the creamery’s caves, which results in a sharp, Old World-Italian flavor and a velvet-like texture. When paired with a simple green salad, crusty bread, and a bottle of hearty Syrah, it’s the perfect wintertime–or any time–repast.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 cup chopped white or yellow onion

1 cup peeled, chopped russet potato

1 1/2 pounds trimmed broccoli, coarsely chopped (about 7 1/2 cups)

2 cups vegetable stock plus 2 cups water, or 4 cups water

4 ounces Oregonzola blue cheese or other high-quality blue cheese, crumbled

Freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Walnut oil, for drizzling

1. Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and potato, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is slightly softened but not browned, 5 minutes. Add the broccoli and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the 2 cups of stock and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 15 minutes.

2. Strain the vegetables, reserving the cooking liquid. Put the cooked vegetables in a food processor and moisten with a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Pulse until very smooth. With the motor running, gradually add the rest of the cooking liquid. Work in batches as needed.

3. Transfer the soup back to the saucepan. Reheat until almost boiling, then remove from the heat.

4. Stir in the blue cheese. Add nutmeg, salt, and pepper to taste.

5. Ladle the soup into 8 warm soup bowls and drizzle with the walnut oil.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Varietal: Syrah

Serves 6

Whipping up a big batch of Boeuf Bourguignon–Burgundy’s traditional beef stew–will keep you warm and cozy during the cold, cruel month of January. The recipe comes from the Bacchus Bistro at Domaine de Chaberton, one of British Columbia’s first estate wineries located south of Vancouver and near the U.S/Canadian Border in the picturesque town of Langley. This beef stew is made special thanks to the preparation of the garniture. The pearl onions, mushrooms, and bacon are sautéed separately from the stew so they retain their shapes and robust flavors. In combination with the meltingly tender meat and the well-balanced flavors from the slightly crunchy vegetables and smoky bacon, the stew forms the perfect pairing with the often leathery, peppery, smoked-bacon notes found in Syrah.

2 1/2 pounds beef brisket, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning

2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 cups diced white or yellow onions

1 cup diced carrot

1/2 cup diced celery

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

3 cups dry red wine

1/2 cup sodium-reduced beef broth

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 bouquet garni (See Cook’s Hint, below)

4 cups fresh pearl onions

5 slices thick-cut bacon, cut cross-wise into 1/4-inch slices

8 ounces white or cremini mushrooms, quartered

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Season the meat with the 2 teaspoons salt and the 1 teaspoon pepper. In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add half of the beef and cook, turning occasionally, until well browned on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a large plate and repeat with the remaining beef and another tablespoon of oil, if needed.

2. Reduce the heat to medium. Add 1 tablespoon of oil to the Dutch oven, along with the onions, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and softened, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Return the meat and accumulated juices to the pan. Sprinkle the flour evenly over the meat and vegetables and stir well to avoid lumps. Add the red wine, broth, tomato paste, and bouquet garni. Stir well and bring to a boil.

4. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender, 2 hours. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. While the stew is cooking, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Prepare an ice bath (see Cook’s Hint, below) in a medium mixing bowl. Add the pearl onions to the boiling water and cook 1 minute. Drain the onions in a colander and immediately plunge them into the ice bath. With a paring knife, trim the root ends and pull off the skin. Pat dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels and set aside.

6. Just before serving, heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp and brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bacon from the pan and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon drippings. Return the skillet to the heat, add the reserved pearl onions, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are tender-crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they just begin to give off their liquid and aroma, 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt and pepper.

7. Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Divide the stew among 6 soup bowls. Garnish with the mushroom-and-onion mixture, bacon, and parsley.

Cook’s Hints: (a) To make a bouquet garni, cut an 8 by 8-inch square of clean cheesecloth and fill with fresh herbs of your choice; the classic combination is thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Pull up the ends of the cheesecloth and tie with kitchen string. Use the bag to flavor stews or soups, removing and discarding the bouquet garni before serving the dish. (b) Ice baths are called for when blanching vegetables or fruits; the cold water immediately stops the cooking process so that the produce doesn’t become overcooked. To make an ice bath, simply fill a large mixing bowl with ice cubes and add cold water to cover the cubes.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Black Forest Pork Tenderloin

Varietal: Merlot

Serves 6 to 8

Camaraderie Cellars, located on the Olympic Peninsula in Port Angeles, Washington, bills itself as “a craft winery producing fine varietal wines.” Winemaker Don Corson produces award-winning wines from grapes produced at Eastern Washington’s top vineyards, wines created to be full-flavored, yet food-friendly. Son Steve, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in the Napa Valley, devised the simple recipe below. The cherry flavors of the sauce are mirrored in the berry flavors of an easy-to-drink wine, such as Camaraderie Merlot. The Corsons and other winemakers and restaurateurs from Washington’s Olympic Coast were profiled in a Taste column I wrote for The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine entitled, In the Loop, a fun read and inspiration to visit this very special part of the world (“Twilight” territory!).

2 tablespoons olive oil

Two 1-pound pork tenderloins, trimmed of fat and silver skin

2 teaspoons kosher salt

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups dry red wine, preferably good-quality Merlot

1 cup cherry preserves

1 tablespoon water (optional)

2 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch (optional)

1. Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Lightly sprinkle the pork on all sides with the salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the pork and cook, turning with tongs, until browned on all sides, a total of 4 to 5 minutes.

2. Reduce the heat and continue cooking the meat, turning occasionally, until still slightly pink at the center when cut with a paring knife, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the meat to a large plate and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm.

3. Add the wine and preserves to the pan, scraping up the brown bits in the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon or heat-proof rubber spatula. Bring to a simmer and cook until the liquid reduces slightly, 7 to 10 minutes. For a thicker sauce, mix the water and cornstarch and add to the pan, then stir well and simmer for 1 minute, or until thick and shiny.

4. To serve, slice the tenderloin and spoon the cherry-wine sauce over the meat.

Cook’s Hint: For fun and variety, try sprinkling the sliced, sauced pork with fresh chopped herbs such as sage, thyme or parsley.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Creamy Tomato Seafood Linguine

Varietal: Semillon-Chardonnay

Serves 4 to 6

Greg Koenig, co-owner with brother Andy of Koenig Distillery and Winery in Caldwell, Idaho, discovered this recipe in the kitchen of a small trattoria in Rome. Its peppery bite is mellowed by tomatoes, sour cream, and a boatload of Northwest shellfish, and Greg recommends pairing it pairs with a well-made Northwest Semillon-Chardonnay blend. Try it with your favorite combinations of seafood, or with shrimp (or Alaskan spot prawns) alone, and accompany with crusty bread and a simple green salad.

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon dry white wine

2 pounds Manila clams, shells scrubbed and rinsed

1/4 cup olive oil

1 cup chopped white or yellow onion

4 teaspoons minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3 cups cored, chopped Roma tomatoes (5 or 6 tomatoes), or 3 cups canned chopped tomatoes, drained

1/2 cup fish stock, or 1/4 cup clam broth plus 1/4 cup water

1/2 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or flat-leaf parsley, plus extra leaves for garnish

1 pound fresh or dried linguine

1/2 pound medium shrimp or Alaskan spot prawns, peeled and deveined

1/2 pound cleaned squid tubes, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 1/2-inch rings Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 to 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional)

1. Place the 1 tablespoon of wine and the clams in a stockpot or large sauce-pan over medium-high heat. Cover the pan, and cook until the clams begin to open, shaking the pan occasionally to redistribute the shellfish and lowering the heat if needed, 5 minutes.

2. Uncover the pan and transfer any open clams to a large mixing bowl. Cover and continue to cook until the remaining clams open, about 2 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open. Pour the remaining clams and pan juices into the mixing bowl.

3. When cool enough to handle, remove the clam meat from the shells and discard the shells. Cover the bowl with aluminum foil and reserve.

4. In a Dutch oven or stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion, garlic, and crushed red pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes.

5. Add the tomatoes, the remaining 1 cup of wine, and the fish stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes cook down and the sauce reduces to about 2 cups, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and gently stir in the sour cream and basil. Cover and set aside.

6. While the sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the linguine and cook until al dente.

7. Five minutes before serving, return the Dutch oven to the stovetop and re-warm the tomato sauce over medium-low heat. Add the shrimp, stir well, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp just begin to turn pink and the tails just begin to curl, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the squid and reserved clams and clam juice and stir gently so the shellfish is incorporated in the sauce.

8. Cook until the calamari is just cooked through and the clams are warm, 1 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the seafood! Season to taste with salt and pepper.

9. Divide the linguine among 4 to 6 dinner plates. Divide the seafood and sauce over the pasta, sprinkle with the cheese, if desired, and garnish with basil leaves.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Sweet Corn and Basil Bisque

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Serves 6 as an appetizer

This summery corn soup comes from chef Big John Caudill, a bigger-than-life personality who’s cooked at wineries, charity events, and restaurants (and even owned one of his own) throughout Washington wine country since 1989 and now hosts lavish Sunday night dinners in the Yakima Valley. Big John likes to serve his dish with grilled bread and a chilled glass of Washington-state Sauvignon Blanc. Like the chef who created it, the soup boasts big flavors-sweet corn, salt, black pepper, and a piquant note of Tabasco. Meanwhile, the wine “is crisp and refreshing and balances out the creaminess of the soup very well,” according to John. Those with timid palates might cut back on the black pepper and Tabasco the first time they make the soup, although I found their presence agreeably tongue-tingling and throat-warming.

6 to 7 ears sweet corn, husks and strings removed and discarded, ears rinsed and patted dry

4 cups chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup minced Walla Walla sweet onion or other variety of sweet onion

1/4 cup minced shallots

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup peeled and diced russet potatoes

1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

2 tablespoons fresh minced basil, plus extra sprigs, for garnish

3 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream

1. With a large, sharp kitchen knife, cut the kernels from the corn and save the cobs. Measure 4 cups of kernels and set aside. Save any remaining kernels for use in another recipe.

2. Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan, add the corn cobs (cut in half if needed to fit the pan), cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the stock is infused with the flavor of the corncobs, about 20 minutes. Strain the cobs and discard; keep the stock warm.

3. Melt the butter in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, shallot, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the reserved corn kernels, the potatoes, 3 cups of the warm stock, the salt, and pepper, and stir well. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are very tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

4. Add the cream and Tabasco and stir well. In a food processor or blender, pulse the soup in batches until very smooth, adding the batches back to the stockpot to re-warm. (An immersion blender also works well to purée the soup.)

5. If needed, add some or all of the remaining 1 cup of chicken stock to thin the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then gently stir in the basil.

6. Ladle the soup into 6 soup bowls, dollop with crème fraîche, and garnish with fresh basil sprigs.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Salmon Fillets Baked in Grape-Leaf Wraps

Varietal: Dry Rosé

Serves 4

In this original recipe of mine, which appears in the wonderful compilation cookbook, “Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink” (Sasquatch Books, 2008), I illustrate how to use grape leaves to protect the delicate flesh of salmon fillets as they bake. The leaves add an earthy look, as well as a pleasantly salty flavor and a bit of suspense as guests unwrap their entrée and discover a rich paste of fresh basil and sun-dried tomatoes topping the salmon inside the packets. You can choose to eat the grape leaves or not. Wine pairing is a bit complex due to the brininess of the capers and grape leaves, but you can’t go wrong with a silky Washington or California dry Rosé with lots of notes of fresh strawberries, raspberries, and rose petals.

Olive Oil

3 ounces (about 1/2 cup) sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil

1/2 cup firmly packed fresh basil leaves (about 4 to 5 sprigs of fresh basil, stemmed)

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

4 teaspoons capers, drained and rinsed

24 preserved grape leaves (about half a 16-ounce jar)

Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, skinned and boned, rinsed, and patted dry

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 teaspoons unsalted butter, cold (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly brush a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil. Drain the sun-dried tomatoes and reserve 1 tablespoon of the oil. (Some oil will continue to cling to the tomatoes; this is okay. If draining the tomatoes does not yield 1 tablespoon of oil, add olive oil to make up the difference.) Coarsely chop the tomatoes and add with the reserved oil to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add the basil, garlic, and capers, and process until the ingredients are finely chopped and form a thick paste. Scrape down the sides of bowl two or three times as needed to blend the mixture completely. Scoop the tomato-basil paste into a small bowl and set aside.

2. Lay out 6 of the grape leaves on a large cutting board so they form a patch approximately 10 by 10 inches. The dull side of the leaf (the side with the protruding veins) should face up so the shiny outside of the leaf faces out when fillets are wrapped. The grape leaf patch should be large enough to accommodate a salmon fillet, with enough overlapping to wrap the salmon completely.

3. Place a salmon fillet in the center of the grape leaves. Lightly sprinkle the fillet with salt and pepper (about 1/4 teaspoon salt and 4 grinds of black pepper per fillet). For each fillet, cut 2 teaspoons of cold butter into 4 pieces and dot evenly over the fillet. With a spatula, spread one quarter of the tomato-basil paste over the top of the fish. Fold the grape leaves, first from the top and bottom, then from the right and left sides toward the center, overlapping. Place the salmon packet on the baking sheet seam side down. Repeat this process with the remaining grape leaves and fillets.

4. Cook the packets for 8 to 12 minutes, depending on the degree of doneness desired. To test for doneness, cut into the center of a packet with the tip of a small, sharp knife and pull the salmon apart gently. If it is still slightly translucent in the center, it is cooked medium rare. If it is opaque in the center, it is well done. Be very careful not to overcook, as the salmon will continue to cook after you remove it from the oven.

5. Place the packets on dinner plates and serve immediately, allowing guests to open their own packets. Or you can open the packets part way so that just a bit of the steamy fish peeks through.

Cook’s Hints: (1) The recipe uses about half of a jar of preserved grape leaves. Those not used can be rewound and repacked into the jar with their brine; add water if necessary to cover the leaves. (2) The packets can be prepared up to the point of cooking early in the day and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature for about an hour, then bake immediately before serving.

Recipe reprinted from Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink (Sasquatch Books, 2008).

Garden-Fresh Gazpacho with Garlic Croutons

Varietal: Chardonnay (Unoaked)

Serves 6 to 8

This recipe comes from Penny Durant, who with husband Ken, owns and operates Red Ridge Farms. It’s a small herb and specialty plant nursery and garden shop located on a prime site with sweeping views of the Red Hills of Dundee. They even grow olive trees and press their own oil at their second venture, the Oregon Olive Mill! Penny’s recipe is as healthy as the lifestyle she represents; it serves as the perfect light, summer appetizer on its own, or a main course with the addition of chilled cooked Alaskan spot prawns, shrimp, or Dungeness crabmeat. An unoaked Chardonnay, with its citrusy notes, works well, although red-wine lovers may prefer a light, slightly chilled red, such as Lemberger or Gamay Noir.

1 1/2 pounds heirloom tomatoes, cored, peeled, and coarsely chopped (about 2 1/2 cups), plus any juice that accumulates (Note: See Cook’s Hint, below)

1 large cucumber, peeled and coarsely chopped (2 cups)

1 small white or yellow onion, coarsely chopped (1 cup)

1 medium green bell pepper, seeds and membranes removed and coarsely chopped (1 cup)

One 4-ounce jar pimientos, drained

Two 11.5-ounce cans tomato juice

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce, plus extra for seasoning

1/8 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

3 large cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

2 cups day-old artisan sourdough bread cubes (1/2-inch cubes)

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives

1. At least 2 hours before you plan to serve, in a food processor or blender, pulse about half of the tomatoes, cucumber, onion, and bell pepper, along with the jar of pimientos and half of 1 can of the tomato juice until smooth, 15 to 30 seconds. Pour into a large mixing bowl. Repeat the blending procedure with the remaining vegetables and the other half of the can of tomato juice. Pour the liquid into the mixing bowl.

2. Stir together the puréed vegetables with the remaining 1 can of tomato juice, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the vinegar, salt, Tabasco, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours and preferably overnight to allow the flavors to meld. Refrigerate 6 to 8 soup bowls.

3. When ready to serve, rub the inside of a small skillet with the cut garlic. Reserve the garlic. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil to the skillet and heat over medium heat. When hot (the oil should bubble around the edges of the cubes when you put them in), cook the bread cubes, turning periodically with kitchen tongs so all the sides are coated with oil, until toasted, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels.

4. Crush the reserved garlic and add it to the chilled soup, mixing well. Ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, float a few croutons in each bowl, and sprinkle with the chives.

Cook’s Hint: To peel a tomato, cut a shallow “X” in the bottom end and drop it into boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and transfer the tomato to an ice bath. After 15 to 20 seconds, remove the tomato, pat dry, and slip off the skin with a sharp knife. To seed, cut the tomato in half horizontally and gently squeeze the halves over a bowl to force out the seeds. Fingers or a small spoon work well to remove any remaining seeds.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Walla Walla Sweet Onion Frittata

Varietal: Chardonnay (Oaked)

Serves 6 to 8

Walla Walla sweet onions, which are in season from June to September, were declared the official state vegetable of Washington State in 2007. They’re featured here, along with fresh herbs of the season and chèvre (fresh, young goat’s-milk cheese), in a recipe by Seattle chef Mike Davis. If you don’t care for big, oaky Chardonnays, try pairing this plump, flavorful frittata with a dry Rosé, a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, or a big, fat Semillon.

12 large eggs

3/4 cup whole or low-fat milk

1 cup firmly packed mixed fresh herbs, minced, preferably parsley, thyme, marjoram, basil, and chives

Pinch of kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small Walla Walla sweet onion, minced

3 ounces fresh, young goat’s-milk cheese (chèvre) or 1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) grated Asiago or Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. In a mixing bowl whisk together the eggs, milk, mixed herbs, salt, and a sprinkle or two of pepper, and set aside.

3. Place a large nonstick, ovenproof skillet over medium to medium-high heat and add the butter and oil. When the butter has melted, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

4. Add the egg mixture to the skillet and continue to cook. When the egg begins to form a light crust on the bottom, lift the sides and allow the liquid eggs to run into the bottom of the skillet. Continue cooking until another crust forms, and repeat the procedure until almost all the liquid eggs are cooked.

5. Remove the skillet from the heat and slide the frittata onto a plate. Using pot holders, place the skillet over the plate and carefully invert the frittata back into the skillet. Place the skillet in the oven and cook until the frittata puffs slightly and is cooked throughout, 3 to 5 minutes.

6. Break the chèvre into small pieces and sprinkle evenly over the top of the frittata, or sprinkle evenly with the Asiago or Parmesan cheese.

7. To serve, cut the frittata into equal portions and serve immediately.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Sticky Chicky (Coconut Chicken with Chili Glaze)

Varietal: Riesling

4 servings

Susan and Scott DeSeelhorst own Snake River Winery and Arena Valley Vineyard in Parma, Idaho. Scott, a trained chef and former restaurant owner, enjoys creating new dishes to pair with his wines, such as a dish he and Susan affectionately call Sticky Chicky. The Thai-style chicken dish is similar to satay, with a glossy, complex glaze reminiscent of a good-quality Chinese barbecue sauce. As far as wines go, Snake River Winery’s Riesling is an excellent pairing with most foods, thanks to sufficient alcohol (12 percent) and well-balanced acids and sugar. The exception, Scott notes, is red meat and similar strong proteins. The chef/winemaker recommends Snake River Riesling as a match with Asian, Southwestern, and spicier foods; with dessert; or even as an after-dinner cordial.

Chili Glaze

3/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Coconut Chicken

1 1/2 cups regular or “light” (reduced fat) coconut milk (shake the can before opening and stir well before measuring)

3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs or boneless, skinless chicken breasts (See Cook’s Hint below)

2 cups cooked jasmine or long-grain white rice

2 tablespoons sliced green onions, for garnish

1. At least three hours before you plan to cook, in order to allow the flavors to meld and the glaze to thicken, make the Chili Glaze.

2. Place the rice vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, ginger, and red pepper flakes in a small saucepan and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat.

3. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the glaze reaches the consistency of maple syrup, 20 to 25 minutes. (It will thicken a bit more once it comes to room temperature or is refrigerated.) Be careful not to cook at too high a temperature or for too long, or the glaze will harden before you can drizzle it over the chicken. Set the glaze aside and re-warm it when ready to use.

4. Combine the coconut milk, ginger, black pepper, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl and stir well. Pour 1/2 cup of the marinade in a small glass mixing bowl, cover, and refrigerate until needed.

5. Pour the remaining marinade into a large, resealable plastic bag. Add the chicken and turn to coat on all sides. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours or, preferably, overnight, turning occasionally to redistribute the marinade over the chicken.

6. Ten minutes before cooking, preheat the broiler. Prepare a broiling pan with a rack and oil the rack lightly or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

7. Remove the reserved marinade from the refrigerator. Arrange the chicken pieces on the rack without crowding and cook for 3 minutes.

8. Remove from the broiler, brush with the reserved marinade, return to the broiler, and cook for 3 minutes more. Remove from the broiler, turn the meat, brush with the reserved marinade, return to the broiler, and cook for 3 minutes more.

9. Continue this process one or two more times, for a total of 12 to 15 minutes, or until the chicken is opaque throughout. Do not brush the chicken after it is out of the oven and completely cooked through, and discard any unused marinade.

10. Divide the rice among six dinner plates and arrange the cooked chicken on top of the rice. Drizzle with the re-warmed glaze or serve the glaze in separate small dipping bowls. Garnish the chicken with the green onions.

Cook’s Hint: Susan and Scott DeSeelhorst prefer chicken thighs to breasts in this recipe because the dark meat retains its moistness and is more flavorful. The chicken can also be grilled on the stove top, although it tends to splatter and be a bit messier than cooking under the broiler. Be sure to oil the grill pan well before cooking the chicken to avoid tough cleanups. The Chili Glaze can be made up to two weeks ahead. Allow the glaze to cool completely at room temperature, transfer to a nonreactive container, and refrigerate until using.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Sea Scallops with Fennel-Orange Marmalade

Varietal: Pinot Gris

Serves 10 to 15; makes 30 appetizers

This plush dish, which hails from Bethel Heights Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, invigorates the taste buds by pairing the sweet-musky flavor of scallops with the bracing edge of orange and the astringency of fennel. Pair it with a good-quality Pinot Gris (such as Bethel Heights) and notice how the light aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, orange, and stone fruit, topped off by a hint of minerality, along with a crisp, dry finish complement the flavors in the marmalade. You will have about a cup of marmalade left over; it keeps in the refrigerator for up to a week or freezes well for later use. It is excellent paired with a small block of cream cheese and crackers as a quick appetizer, as a dipping sauce for shrimp, or as a chutney or salsa with pork tenderloin. If serving the marmalade with pork tenderloin, pair the dish with your favorite Oregon Pinot Noir.

1 fennel bulb, diced (about 2 1/4 cups), plus the feathery green tops, minced, for garnish

2 tablespoons diced shallots

2 oranges, peeled, segmented, and diced, plus any juice that accumulates

1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest

4 cups freshly squeezed or store-bought orange juice

1/4 cup white wine

l/4 cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon whole fennel seed

1/4 cup Cointreau or other orange-flavored liqueur

Granulated sugar

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter, plus extra as needed

30 fresh or thawed untreated (dry pack) sea scallops, rinsed, drained, and patted very dry
(see Cook’s Hint, below)

30 good-quality whole-wheat crackers

1. Heat a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the diced fennel, shallots, orange segments and their juice, zest, orange juice, white wine, brown sugar, and fennel seed and stir well. Bring to a rolling boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced to about 2 cups, 30 to 35 minutes. At the beginning of the cooking time, watch the pan carefully so the orange juice does not boil over.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Cointreau. Taste the marmalade; if it is too tart, add sugar to taste. Return the pan to the heat and cook, stirring often, until it reaches the consistency of chutney, 3 to 5 minutes. In the last minutes of cooking, watch carefully and stir often so the marmalade doesn’t burn. Transfer half of the marmalade to a small nonreactive bowl or jar, allow to cool completely, cover, and save for another use (see headnote). Keep the remaining marmalade warm until ready to serve.

3. In a large heavy-bottomed skillet (nonstick works best for this), heat the olive oil and butter over medium to medium-high heat until the butter foams. Working in batches, add the scallops without crowding. Cook the scallops, turning only once, until golden brown on the outside and still translucent in the middle (see Cook’s Hints, below), 1 to 2 minutes per side. Add more butter and oil if needed.

4. To serve, place a cooked scallop on a cracker and top with a scant teaspoon of marmalade. Garnish with the minced fennel greens.

Cook’s Hints: (1) If you can’t find fresh scallops, it is important to use previously frozen untreated or “dry pack” scallops instead, or the scallops will not brown (caramelize) properly, and will instead steam in their own juices. Previously frozen scallops that have been treated with phosphates during processing absorb water. Not only do they not cook properly, they lack the fresh, sweet, and briny sea flavor of their dry-packed cousins. Sea scallops that are uniformly white in color, or that are displayed surrounded by juice, are most likely treated. (2) Scallops (like many types of seafood) are delicate and will continue to cook even after they are taken off the heat. It is always preferable to undercook rather than overcook scallops so they don’t become tough and rubbery. When using the sauté method described above, many chefs prefer the scallops cooked medium rare (still translucent in the middle).

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, 2007, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.