We always love wining and dining around Vancouver, British Columbia, and inevitably start our culinary journey with lunch at Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House, a long-running seafood restaurant just off Robson Street, the main artery in downtown. 

But sad to report that my entrée, actually an appetizer dish called Joe’s Raw Plate and designed for sharing, was a muddled mess of tasteless pumpkin-seed vinaigrette (that looked more like a pesto sauce), overly sweet pomegranate molasses, and too many pickled onions. At least the fish itself, smoked salmon and albacore sashimi, were okay. 

Still, you just gotta love the wine list here, which features an incredible selection of BC wines by the glass and by the bottle. 

Much better was the Seafood Salad at O’Doul’s in the Listel Hotel (where we stayed). 

The Duck Salad, a lunch special of the day, was another winner, and quite beautiful to boot. 

Triple Soy-Seared Tuna Tataki, an appetizer at the venerable Diva at the Met in the Metropolitan Hotel, was one of the most beautiful presentations we’ve ever seen. Its multiple layers included cucumbers, pickled shiitake salad, and soy “caviar,” while the dots on the plate included a kazu emulsion. This dish paired nicely with a cool glass of Blue Mountain Pinot Grigio. 

More beautiful presentations, of a Nigiri Sushi Sampler plate, at Blue Water Cafe & Raw Bar in trendy Yaletown. Among the yummy nibbles: Unagi, scallop, salmon, halibut, tuna, mackerel, shrimp, and a California roll in a glorious egg wrap. I enjoyed sipping glasses of 8th Generation 2006 Riesling and See Ya Later Ranch Brut with this dish. 

The just-opened Market in the glittery Shangri-La Hotel in downtown, the creation of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, was a delight. . .and packed. Definitely the “hot” reservation to have during the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Here’s a lovely appetizer–Seared Scallops with Caramelized Cauliflower and Caper-Raisin Emulsion–the perfect fusion of sweet and salty. 

Vancouver may be the city of cool restrooms (or washrooms, as the Canadians say). Market’s had black granite slabs for walls and square milky glass sinks with square fixtures. 

One of our very favorite cities in the world is Vancouver, British Columbia.

It’s easy to reach from Seattle thanks if you take the Amtrak Cascades train (a pleasant, four-hour journey), clean and cosmopolitan, and one of the best places to wine and dine we’ve ever encountered. Here’s a view from the train on our ride back from Vancouver. 

Last month we headed up north for the 31st annual Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, which we’d been hearing about for ages but never had the pleasure to attend (until now). It was everything and more than it had been billed. . .as two huge trade tastings proved, with distributors from around the world.

We saw some familiar faces, such as Stephen Cipes, owner of Summerhill Pyramid Winery, located in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. 

And, from closer to home, Gilles Nicault, from Washington State’s Long Shadows Vintners. 

We also ran into Joe Dobbes (center), from Oregon’s Dobbes Family Estate.

The neatest thing about this year’s fest was that the theme was British Columbia wines. This was a first in the venerable festival’s history. . .only one before had Canadian wines been the center of attention. And for BC wines to finally take their place front and center stage was a real feather in the cap for a wine industry that has really just gotten up and running during the past decade. 

One of the most fun workshops I attended was entitled, “Blind, Blind,” during which we did a blind tasting of wines while actually blindfolded! It was a challenging exercise not only to not knock over the nine wine glasses (!) but to try to figure out what was in each glass. In the photo above, I am “listening” to the wine to determine if its is still or sparkling. 

In an upcoming post, we’ll give you a rundown of the restaurants we tried and liked, and those that didn’t fare as well. 

Here’s a new word to add to your vocabulary: “glamping,” a combination of “glamour” and “camping.”

And to kick off “glamping” season in May 2009 (according to a recent press release), “Lakedale Resort at Three Lakes, nestled between Roche Harbor and Friday Harbor on San Juan Island in Washington State, will offer new ‘Glamping Survival Kits,’ a collection of outdoor necessities for the glamorous camper (‘glamper’). Each package was developed to be enjoyed while staying at one of 13 ‘glampsites,’ featuring canvas cabins furnished with a queen bed, full-size sleeper sofa or lounge chairs, bed and bath linens, and beautiful hickory furniture.”

The Happy Hour and Rekindle “Glamping Survival Kits,” both priced at $70, sounded good to us:

Happy Hour: Two folding pilsner or wine “glasses;” one 10-ounce unbreakable hip flask; a freestanding wine bottle and glass holder; a bottle of Happy Camper wine (naturally!); one six-pack of beer and one Lakedale Resort logo corkscrew. 

Rekindle: One FireCone Eco Saucer fire starter basket; a bundle of firewood; one package of gourmet marshmallows; two gourmet chocolate bars; one box of graham crackers; one giant roasting fork; two folding champagne flutes and one bottle of sparkling wine. 

The press release goes on to say that, “Lakedale ‘glampground’ is open annually from May 1 to September 30. ‘Glamping’ rates start at $149 a night. Each custom built 225-square-foot canvas cabin features a queen bed with pillow-top bedding, a full-size sleeper sofa or two lounge chairs, pillows and a flannel duvet, a table and four chairs, one cordless lantern and bath linens. Every ‘glampsite’ also includes two Adirondack chairs, a picnic table and a fire ring. Continental breakfast is included.”

During a Saturday overnight stay in the Tulalip Suite at Tulalip Resort Casino in Marysville, Washington, we dined with Seattle public relations maven Lorne Richmond, and his lovely wife Elizabeth (Liz). We met promptly at 6:30 in the resort’s spacious lobby and went on a brief tour of some of Tulalip’s many ameneties such as a glittery nightclub lounge, spa, and 1,200-slot casino. 

We began our meal at Blackfish, a seafood-centric restaurant that specializes in cooking wild salmon in the traditional Indian manner–over ironwood sticks. 

Here we enjoyed some tasty crabcakes served over vegetable-filled corncakes. The smoked salmon appetizer was also a winner. Both paired well with a well-balanced Aligote chosen by Tulalip sommelier Tom Thompson.

After appetizers, we headed next door to Tulalip Bay, the resort’s top-shelf restaurant. We were most impressed by the private dining room (where Tulalip elders meet to discuss tribal business) and were the first press people ever to tour the wine cellar. 

Here Tom opened a killer Sonoma Valley Pinot and several red wines. The temperature-controlled, state-of-the-art cellar is centered by a granite table for intimate tastings. There are 4,000 bottles. Of the 500 selections, 35% are come from Washington. Sommelier Tom and Chef Dean Shinagawa (formerly of the Roy’s branch in Seattle) orchestrate monthly food-and-wine pairings by region and host winemaker dinners throughout the year.

Every Friday and Saturday night, Tom offers a flight of wines (four 3-ounce pours) from some of the state’s most sought-after boutique wineries such as Leonetti, Quilceda Creek, Betz Family Winery, Tamarack, and DeLille Cellars.

During dinner we enjoyed ordering a variety of dishes off Chef Dean’s five-course tasting menu as well as the à la carte menu. Here’s my entrée from the tasting menu, a colorful, beautifully plated, and well-prepared Oven-Roasted Steelhead Salmon with Wild Rice Quinoa Cake, Pear-Pepper Relish, and Huckleberry Gastrique. 

On a gloomy Sunday afternoon, our day was brightened when we attended a class at Novelty Hill/Januik Winery in Woodinville Wine Country where we blended and bottled our own wine! 

Mike Januik, former head winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle, led the class. He said he prefers to blend as a team, not only because it’s more fun, but because he can blame others if the blend isn’t good.

Then he set us off on our own to taste through five red wines–Klipsun Cabernet Sauvignon, Stillwater Creek Merlot, Stillwater Creek Malbec, Weinbau Cabernet Franc, and Alder Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon–in order to come up with the perfect blend. He  reassured us that with such wonderful base wines, we couldn’t go too wrong (whew!).

The paper tablecloths quickly became spotted with wine; our pipettes were put to good use; and finally we all had our own perfect blends. 

Januik and company even bottled our wines for us, as shown above. Only caveat was to let the wines rest upright (not laying down as you normally store wine) for a week or two; otherwise, the corks might slip out.

After a busy afternoon of blending wine in the cool, drafty barrel room, we were ready for some warm, solid food upstairs in the winery’s lovely tasting room/cafe. A Mushroom Pizza, hot from the wood-fired oven and perfumed with fresh orange zest, along with a glass of Mike Januik’s stellar Syrah, filled the bill. 

When Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining was first released, I was pleased to do a booksigning at Columbia Winery’s beautiful tasting room in Woodinville Wine Country (photo above). Months later, I was sad to hear that the tasting room, as well as the rest of the venerable facility, would be closed due to a change in ownership.

Last November, the good word came out that  Columbia Winery had signed a long-term lease to stay in its current Woodinville Wine Country location.

And, after 20 years in its Victorian landmark location, the latest news is that it’s time to remodel the interior, which will lead to significant enhancements to the overall visitor experience.

According to a press release, here’s what you can expect to see when you visit. . .

Phase One:

•An open floor plan with a modern new fireplace, wireless capability, and updated materials and furnishings.

•The banquet rooms will receive new carpeting and paint. 

Phase Two:

•A redesigned tasting bar, a Cellar Club tasting room, and a bride’s room.

•Following the interior remodel phases, the patio will be given a facelift, creating an outdoor-seating area. 

While the work goes on, Columbia Winery will continue to be open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, and you can track the remodel process via frequent photo postings on the company’s website.

A recent press release announced news of an Aphrodisiac Menu that will be available at Barking Frog, located in the Willows Lodge, a glam wine-country retreat in Woodinville Wine Country. The menu, created by Executive Chef Bobby Moore, who has an incredible Mini Lamb Burger in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (page 48), will be available throughout February. Here’s a shot of us during a booksigning when the book was first released in the fall of 2007.

The hotel also offers two romance packages designed for the month of love, the “Do Not Disturb” and the “Remember When” romance packages. 

Here’s the Aphrodisiac Menu, whose various courses contain ingredients reputed to stimulate aphrodisiac qualities. Ooh-la-la!

First Kiss

Chilled Kumomoto  Oysters

Champagne Caviar & Crème Fraîche

Or

Broiled Penn Cove Oysters

Tarragon Mascarpone, Aromatic Rock Salt

Second Kiss

Mixed Organic Greens

Tomme d’ Chevre, Candied Hazelnuts, Vanilla ~ Pear Vinaigrette

Or

Bibb Lettuce

Roasted Apple, Candied Pine Nuts, Cardamom ~ Espresso Vinaigrette     

Third Kiss


Oven-Roasted Sea Bass


Fennel Risotto, Candied Carrot, Carrot ~ Ginger Beurre Blanc
 


Or
 


Smoked Paprika Sea Scallops


Sea Beans, Fennel & Celeriac Puree, Marcona Almonds
 
 


Intermezzo


Sex on the Beach Granita
  

Get a Room

Châteaubriand (For Two)

Black Truffle Béarnaise Sauce, Château Sweet Potatoes, Lovage Oil

Sweet Tooth

Mexican Hot Chocolate 

Red Banana Churros

Tourism BC sent out the following release with news of a chic new hotel and restaurant opening in Vancouver:

“What do you have when you blend a chic boutique hotel with the culinary creativity of an award-winning chef?  Simply the stylish makings of Vancouver’s newest urban retreat. And then some. October marked the official unveiling of the highly-anticipated Loden Vancouver, alongside Voya, its fashionable 80-seat flagship restaurant, helmed by classically-trained Chef Marc-Andre Choquette.

“Complete with a private dining room, Voya evokes the sophisticated feel of a 40s-style eatery with its blend of rich upholsteries, bold patterns, sleek, lacquered tables and crystal chandeliers. Taking its name from the notion that food can prove a journey, or voyage, unto itself, Voya promises clever, seasonal menus and offerings which adhere to both the Green Table and Ocean Wise sustainable programs.  And that’s just the menus. 

“Modern meets nature at this hotel which houses 77 contemporary rooms, lush amenities and a design that mimics the city’s natural beauty; Loden’s curved glass, natural stone and copper exterior are reminiscent of ocean views from BC’s shores.  And should you look to take the experience sky-high, head to one of Loden’s six luxe suites, including the posh 1,600-square-foot penthouse Halo retreat.  A multi-bedroom suite, Halo offers cool calm complete with views, thanks to a lush wrap-around outdoor terrace. 
“Situated in Vancouver’s Coal Harbour, a neighborhood that traces the city’s shoreline, Loden promises a sophisticated blending of styles, tastes and textures.”

During our booksignings last month in the Yakima Valley, we enjoyed the food of talented local chef Frank Magaña both at Chinook Wines (where he cooked winemaker Kay Simon’s fabulous Cherry-Marinated Chicken, a recipe featured in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, for an appreciative crowd) as well as at Picazo 7 Seventeen, his restaurant in downtown Prosser. 

There are still a few vestiges of the former Alexandria Nicole winery space–glass vases are filled with wine corks and wine barrels serve as end tables. But otherwise, the restaurant boasts a Latin vibe, with bold colors and dramatic artwork. A specially commissioned chandelier/sculpture incorporating wine bottles dangles from the center of the dining room.

The Firecracker Prawns were our favorite starter–Gulf Prawns sautéed with garlic and harissa chili paste and finished with cream–the perfect combination of hot/spicy and mellow. We also nibbled on the thin-crust, housemade Flat Bread, topped with kalamata olives, shredded basil, and Manchego cheese, while we perused the menu.

My fellow diners all opted for one of the specials of the day, a hefty veal chop, while I thoroughly enjoyed the Tuscan Chicken, a grilled airline breast with broiled chèvre, toasted garbanzo beans, roasted red peppers, and kalamata olives.

The wine list features the Valley’s best (and many boutique) bottles. We enjoyed Bunnell Family Cellars Vif!, a lively red blend, as well as Millbrandt 2006 Chardonnay. 

Magaña, who moved east of the mountains after chef-ing in Tacoma, raises the bar in the Yakima Valley, where he caters many events in addition to running his restaurant and raising his family. His monthly winemaker dinners are legendary, and great bargains, at just $75 per person. 

Early in October, Mission Hill Family Estate was kind enough to host me for a two-hour booksigning during the Okanagan Fall WIne Festival. Here I am doing my thing, talking up a lovely young lady visiting from Victoria. 

After the signing, we enjoyed taking the Discovery Tour throughout the property. Most impressive were the underground caves (blasted from volcanic soils!) and the wine-and-cheese tasting/comparison that ended the tour. 

I was also lucky enough to chat a few minutes with winery executive chef Michael Allemeier, who has racked up all sorts of impressive awards for The Terrace restaurant. Unfortunately, the one day we were there, it rained, so the al fresco resto was closed! That’s okay. It gives us another reason to return to Mission Hill soon and often. Here’s Chef Allemeier.

Here’s a photo of The Terrace restaurant at Mission Hill Family Estate, once the sun had finally come out, but too late for lunch!

And finally, here’s a photo of the winery’s monumental architecture.