Some restaurants have the right vibe straight out of the gate, and Branzino is one of those. The former En space (which undoubtedly closed because we never saw anyone En-side) has been transformed into a rosy-warm space with dark wooden booths and an open kitchen, not unlike the décor at Belltown’s beloved Queen City Grill. No small coincidence since owner Peter Lamb founded that resto and also was long associated with Il Bistro in the Pike Place Market. Although you won’t find any actual branzino (Mediterranean sea bass) on the menu just yet, the Halibut “in Paper” with Summer Vegetables and Lemon was a paean to springtime (if a bit on the small side). The Veal Chop with Roasted Lemon, Pan Jus, and Gremolata was also a meager portion, especially at $36 a plate. A better and more generous version is offered uptown at Tulio, where it’s stuffed with mozzarella, creamy spinach, leeks, truffle oil, and crispy prosciutto. I loved the wine list, a varied selection with some of the world’s best: Trimbach Pinot Gris, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Grgich Chardonnay, Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Turley Zinfandel. Our own region shines with bottles from Sineann, Abeja, Ken Wright, Owen Roe, Andrew Will, and Quilceda Creek.