Tango Still Dancing Strong After 10 Years

March 29, 2010

Tango Interior

Tango, just up Pike Street from the Seattle Convention Center, has always been one of our favorite places for top-quality tapas and paella, its outstanding wine list, and romantic ambience.

So we were especially happy to learn that next month marks the Spanish sweetheart’s 10th year in operation.

Owner and affable general manager Travis Rosenthal sent me the link to all the planned festivities for the big birthday celebration and shared some reflections on being in business for 10 whole years.

“Ten years in restaurant years is a long time and definitely worth celebrating! This April we will celebrate this important milepost with free El Diablo [one of Seattle’s best-ever desserts], happy hours all night long, and live tango dancing.

“Back in 2000, many people had not tried, or even heard of mojitos, ceviches, sangría, and paella. Actually, I’m not sure people even understood the style of “tapas” and “small plates.” Sharing was something we taught our children but would never do on a first date.

“Times have definitely changed! Sometimes it’s better not to be the hot, new Seattle restaurant that everyone writes about for a year and then forgets. I think we are a very comfortable ‘sure thing’ for our regular, local diners. Our guests continue to come back even during hard economic times and, with continued support, Tango should keep dancing for many years to come.”

A Steal of a Deal at the Dahlia

March 14, 2010

Today, lamentably, marks just about the halfway point through the wonderful Dine Around Seattle promotion that takes place in Seattle every March and November. And, also lamentably, I’ve only had the opportunity to dine at one of the participating restos so far.

But that one experience was truly memorable.

On a Thursday morning at 11:30, I met two of my best girlfriends (we call each other “Sis,” even though we aren’t technically related) for lunch at Tom Douglas’s venerable Dahlia Lounge (which celebrated its 20th anniversary late last year).

My sises and I were so busy chatting, I didn’t snag a shot of Tom’s Tasty Tomato Soup with Brown-Butter Croutons or the Mixed Baby Lettuces with Lemon, Sea Salt, and Reggiano, although both tasted great.

But I did get a photo of the Pan-Seared Chilled Albacore Tuna with Buckwheat Soba, Pickled Beets and Daikon, and Green Garlic Aïoli, which all three of us ordered.

Dahlia Tuna

Rosy pink and perfectly seared, the generous portion of tuna rested on a bed of flavorful noodles. The beet salad provided a crunchy snap and the creamy green-garlic aïoli a bracing and pungent top note. Asian cuisine à la Northwest at its best.

Dahlia\'s Just Desserts

Here is the Chocolate-Vanilla Bean Custard Éclair (its creamy-sweet custard flecked with real vanilla beans!) and what turned out to be the surprising star among the dessert trio–Lychee-Ginger Sorbet, a sweet (but not too sweet) refresher studded with black sesame seeds. Delish.

Dahlia Coconut Pie

Of course, you can’t eat dessert at any of Tom Douglas’s restaurants without saving room for a piece of the Triple Coconut Cream Pie with White Chocolate and Toasted Coconut. One picture worth 1,000 words.

And all this goodness for just $15 per person, plus tax and gratuity, through end of the month.

Everybody’s Smiling at Sonrisa

February 28, 2010

Sonrisa Chips and Salsa

After running a few much-needed post-holiday errands at University Village, we worked up an appetite, and had been curious about Sonrisa, a self-described “Modern Mexican” restaurant, so decided to give it a spin. If my college Spanish serves, “sonrisa” translates as “smile.”

Which is just what we did when we were promptly greeted with a basket of freshly fried chips (blue corn and regular) and a glistening bowl of salsa. Quickly, we ordered a coupla Sonrisa Margaritas to quench our thirst and start the afternoon off right.

Sonrisa Chicken Fajita Salad

Here’s my Frontera Salad (dressings on the side per my special request). It’s described as “Ancho-marinated grilled chicken breast, served sliced on a bed of roasted corn, tomatoes, bell peppers, and onion. Tossed with romaine and ancho ranch dressing. Grated cotija cheese.” The Frontera (“frontier” or “border”) salad was the perfect antidote to the holiday feeding frenzy. If not for the margarita, I’d have felt positively virtuous eating this healthy, fresh salad.

Sonrisa Chicken Fajitas

Meanwhile, my meat-eating hubby opted for Ancho-Grilled Chicken Fajitas served with sautéed red and yellow bell peppers, white onions, guacamole, pico de gallo, and flour tortillas. They were okay. . .nothing to write home about. . .and a far cry from the sizzling platters of goodness, served with heaping mounds of black beans and Spanish rice, from our days in Texas, home of Tex-Mex cuisine.

Toulouse Petit Making It Big

February 16, 2010

Toulouse Petit Interior

A recent relaxed Saturday-morning brunch at Toulouse Petit, the New Orleans-inspired restaurant in Seattle’s Queen Anne neighborhood, made us want to laissez les bon temps rouler (let the good times roll)!

Here’s a photograph of the interior, formerly a non-descript Chinese restaurant that has been transformed into something you’d certainly expect to find in the Big Easy itself. Fleur de Lis wall art, custom metalwork, and hand-blown lighting fixtures surround the dining area. Inlaid wooden tables are mini works of art. It’s said the custom mosaic floor contains more than 85,000 hand-cut tiles.

Toulouse Petit Blue Crab Benedict

One of Toulouse Petit’s best, and signature dishes (not to mention one of seven Eggs Benedict dishes offered on the sprawling menu), Louisiana Blue Crab with Fines Herbes Benedict proved a lovely combo of warm English muffins, perfectly poached eggs, a fair amount of crab, and a decadent and not-too-lemon-y Hollandaise sauce sided with not-too-greasy breakfast potatoes.

Toulouse Petit Eggs Forestiere

I wasn’t quite as happy with one of the Egg Dishes–Eggs “Forstiere” (sic) with Oyster Mushrooms, Asparagus, and Fresh Herbs. Described as “a softly scrambled omelet,” the dish was instead a scramble with eggs almost to the overdone point. A side salad (substituted for the breakfast potatoes) contained nary a wilted leaf (one of my pet peeves), a sprinkle of confetti-cut tarragon (one of my favorite herbs), some finely diced scallions, and a refreshing vinaigrette. Hefty points for that!

The lunch menu offers dishes such as a Fried Chicken Po’ Boy, Creole Gulf Shrimp Cakes, and Mussels à la Mariniere with Frites.

Dinner promises a choice among 14 different side dishes (!) including grits and red beans and rice, as well as entrées such as Crawfish Etouffée, Toulouse Jambalaya, and Louisiana Redfish.

Even during our mid-morning Saturday brunch, chef Eric Donnelly (former Oceanaire Seafood Room exec chef) was on the scene, striding in with a huge rolling pin that he probably bought up the street at the new (and fabulous!) Metropolitan Market. We were glad to see him keeping his  eagle eye on the bustling kitchen, and look forward to returning to this “Petit” restaurant with grandiose dreams.

In related news, it was announced earlier this month that the $6 Breakfast Deal, offered from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m. on weekdays, has been extended indefinitely.

From the press release:

The $6 breakfast happy hour includes almost every item on the Toulouse Petit breakfast menu. The two exceptions are the USDA Prime Rib Eye Steak and Eggs, which sells for $10 during happy hour, and the Louisiana Blue Crab Eggs Benedict, which sells for $9.

In addition to making the breakfast happy hour permanent, Toulouse Petit also recently rolled out an expanded lunch menu, adding more seafood and poultry dishes, more USDA Prime steaks, and additional soups.

Dish of the Day from Cafe Juanita

February 10, 2010

Cafe Juanita Crab Appetizer

A post-holiday meal in early January at Cafe Juanita turned up many outstanding dishes. But I was most taken by one intriguing appetizer: Alaskan King Crab with Poco Carretto Green Apple Sorbetto and Crab Butter Powder. Cafe Juanita chef/owner and fellow Seattle Dame, Holly Smith, served the dish at the James Beard Foundation Gala Awards dinner last May, and it’s been a popular item on Cafe Juanita’s menu ever since.

(An aside. Poco Carretto Gelato is Smith’s latest brainchild. The authentic Italian dessert made its debut in June 2008 at the Fremont Farmers Market. Sorbets and gelatos that bear the Poco Carretto name, which translates as “little cart” in Italian, contain only the finest local, organic ingredients.)

Anyway, I’m afraid this romantic, venerable, dimly lit restaurant in Kirkland isn’t the best place to try to take plate shots. And since the picture above doesn’t begin to do justice to the ephemeral dish, I hope to make amends with my words.

Imagine, if you will, a cool scoop of sweet/tart apple sherbet draped with several salty/sweet fingers of king crab. Next comes a generous sprinkle of crab butter powder, the essence of crab. Dive–all-at-once, ice-cream-sundae-like–into the dish’s creamy/soft texture and buttery/briny taste to experience true Pacific Northwest cuisine!

These thoughts from chef Holly (as reprinted from jbfnotes, the James Beard Foundation member newsletter) , “This combination is tried and true. My twist is to make a green-apple sorbetto with as much acidity as I can leave in the apples, and then give it a drizzle of fruity Ligurian olive oil, Maldon salt, and top this with fresh chilled Alaskan king crab and crab butter powder.”

Sip Makes a Splash at Fifth and Madison

January 16, 2010

From the moment it started coming out of the ground, the proverbial buzz began to build (so to speak) around the 5th and Madison building (appropriately named since it’s located in downtown Seattle at Fifth Avenue and Madison Street). The new condominium complex, located smack-dab in the center of Seattle’s downtown Financial District and across the street from the Rem Koolhaas-designed downtown Seattle Public Library, is a gorgeous glass monolith with an large outdoor plaza with water features and greenery–a favorite play space for the building’s resident dogs.

About the only thing lacking in the glitzy development was an upscale restaurant. Answering the clarion call came the third location of the “Napa-Valley-inspired” Sip. at the wine bar & restaurant, whose two other locations are in Issaquah and Gig Harbor.

On one of the coldest days of winter so far, a Wednesday in early December, we met friends who actually live at Fifth & Madison for a quick drink and tour of their condo before heading down the elevator and out the door to Sip.

Immediately, we were taken with the restaurant’s dramatic design, from the living-room-like feel of the “Great Room” to the expansive wall of wine to the bold and whimsical wine-related artwork on the walls. Warm, earthy hues and plush leathers dominate; a bustling vibe and interesting blend of people–from downtown office workers to downtown-dwelling empty nesters to 20-somethings out for drinks and apps–adds to an atmosphere of relaxed, adult sophistication. An added bonus? Northwest jazz musicians perform live on Thursday evenings.

According to a press release: “Guests will find a cozy yet stylish ambiance with an impressive wine selection and distinctly flavorful food,” says founder Lane Scelzi. “Many wineries in Napa Valley capture that feeling and that’s what we’ve achieved with Sip., all while adding our own distinct Northwest flavor.”

At the heart of Sip. Seattle sits a huge, granite-topped bar that overlooks both the dining area and the patio. I can’t wait to try Sip during the summer, since  the patio–one of the most expansive outdoor dining spaces in all of downtown–features a fireplace, a lush grassy area, and views of Elliott Bay.

Sip Bibb Lettuce Salad

Now. . .enough with the bells and whistles–let’s get down to the food. Here’s the Bibb Salad, a towering mound of whole Bibb lettuce, marinated tomatoes, Nueskie’s smoked bacon, Point Reyes blue cheese, and Dungeness Crab. Sauced with Point Reyes blue cheese dressing, it was so plentiful, I could gladly have eaten this as my main course!

Sip Short Ribs

My meat-eating hubby highly recommended the Short Ribs, which the well-written menu describes as, “boneless ribs, parmesan “jo-jos,” arugula salad, meyer lemon, gremolata, parmigiano, and red-wine braising jus.” Discussion around the table centered around exactly what “jo-jos” are. I’ve always thought they were simply flour-coated (so they stay nice and crispy), deep-fried potato wedges that originated on the West Coast. I was introduced to them at the old Deluxe Bar-B-Que in the Pike Place Market, although since that space has morphed into a sushi joint, I haven’t seen them in the take-away case in years.

Sip Main Dish 2

I was in the mood for Black Cod, a.k.a. Sablefish, a fish I reported on in one of my recent Seattle Times Taste columns. This rendition skewed traditionally Asian, with a red-miso marinade, edamame wasabi “mash,” herb daikon slaw, fried shallots, cilantro oil, and sweet-chili butter. And even though it looked like a bit of a mash-up, the elements flowed as harmoniously as a Japanese fountain.

Sip Chicken

The female half of our dynamic-dining duo ordered the Jidori Chicken Confit. For those of you who don’t know, Jidori is a trademarked name of a very special type of chicken beloved by chefs in the know. According to the Jidori Web site, their birds “are raised cage-free, fed all-natural grain with no meat by-products, and without any hormones or steroids.” There must be something to their claims, since our friend, a long-time foodie and wine lover, pronounced the dish well prepared and the chicken very tasty. The “cured natural heirloom chicken hind quarter” was served with roasted-garlic mashers, brown-butter-basted Brussels-sprouts salad (the leaves painstakingly separated from their cores like frilly miniature lettuce leaves!), and garlic butter.

Sated and happy, we passed on dessert (as we usually do) in favor of finishing the last dregs of our bottle of Washington-state red wine. But I must admit that the Roasted Sugar Pie Pumpkin Cheesecake and the Hot Buttered Rum Brulée were tempting sweet options.

As you’d expect, Sip’s beverage program is impressive. The restaurant features nearly 70 wines by the glass; more than 250 bottles from the Pacific Northwest, California, and around the globe; a wide range of red, white, rosé wine, and champagne flights; nearly 15 domestic and imported beers; and cocktails made with fresh and natural ingredients.

Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week, happy hour is offered Monday through Friday 4:30 to 6:30.

Cheers to Sip. Seattle, and welcome to the neighborhood!

Counter Dining at Il Fornaio

January 10, 2010

Il Fornaio Salad

Back during the holidays, on a Saturday night when the shoppers were out in full force, we made the BIG mistake of not making a dinner reservation. Turned away at several places, we finally took our chances at Il Fornaio’s Risotteria (the smaller downstairs location, not the more formal upstairs–and what we refer to as “baby” Fornaio).

Noticing two seats at the counter overlooking the sous chefs and busy line, we asked if they were available. And, very luckily for us, they were!

Above is the always-dependable Insalata di Spinaci–Fresh organic baby spinach, along with walnuts, mushrooms, applewood-smoked bacon, tomatoes, onions, and aged ricotta, tossed with balsamic vinaigrette.

Il Fornaio Minestrone Soup

And here’s the Minestrone Soup that comes from “big” Fornaio that our server was nice enough to go up and fetch for us.

Il Fornaio Seafood Pasta

Spaghetti al Frutti di Mare–Long, thin pasta with clams, mussels, scallops, squid, shrimp, tomato, garlic,
chili flakes, marinara, and white wine was my main. While not loaded with seafood, the tomato sauce was rich and satisfying, and I took home half the pasta for the next night’s seafood soup.

Il Fornaio Roasted Chicken

Pollo allo Spiedo–rotisserie chicken served with a plume of rosemary–was a large portion and perfectly cooked. Sautéed kale and roasted potatoes were ample sides.

A bottle of Ripasso (sometimes considered a sister wine to Amarone) went down far too easily and soon we found ourselves making our way through the madding crowds and back into the cold wintery night.

Ethan Stowell Cookin’ it up at the James Beard House

January 1, 2010

If you are planning a trip to New York City this month, don’t miss a visit to the venerable James Beard House on January 20 for the Northwestern Seafood Extravaganza presented by our friend Ethan Stowell, chef/owner/founder of Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook a Wolf, Tavolàta, and Union.

From the first days of Union, we predicted Ethan’s meteoric rise. Here’s a link to a television interview I did for Seattle PBS station KCTS’s “About the Money” that discusses Ethan’s rise in the Seattle restaurant scene. Congratulations, Ethan!

Tickets for JBF Members are $125; General Public $165.

Savoring Spanish Olive Oil at Spur

December 5, 2009

In mid October we were lucky enough to be among a cadre of local media, trade, and restaurateurs who were invited to experience a Spanish olive-oil tasting and dinner at Spur Gastropub in Belltown.

There we learned that Spain claims to be the first producers of olive oil in the world, and that Spain produces 25 percent in the world, with production of 1.2 million tons of the extra-virgin variety.

Southern Spain is home to 300 million olive trees (!), and 24 varieties are used to make Spanish olive oil.

Here’s a shot of the four oils we sampled (left to right). They included Arbequina, which is described as “clean and green with fresh-mown grass, green apple, and green almond notes.” The soft, delicately flavored oil produced from this variety is lovely with boiled potatoes or roasted fish or salads garnished with orange segments.

Spanish Olive Oil Tasting

Hojiblanca extra virgin olive oil looks cloudy because it is unfiltered. It has “dry-grass and hay notes reminiscent of a summer day.” It works well in pastries, pasta, and for bread-dipping, as well as for frying.

Cornicabra (a.k.a. “the heart of the goat”) is more bitter and peppery–a more rustic-style oil than the others in the group. Try it with barbecue.

Picual is the most produced oil in Spain, as well as the most intense of the four we sampled. Use it to add a distinctive flavor atop vegetables, soups, and stews.

Spur Gastropod Black Cod

Spur chef/owners Brian McCrackena and Dana Tough created a six-course tasting menu highlighting each of the four oils. Pictured above is our first course of Slow-Cooked Butterfish (a.k.a. Black Cod or Sablefish) with Potatoes, Pearl-Onion Confit, and Hojiblanca Olive-Oil Foam.

Spur Gastropub Pork

I’m not much of a meat eater, but the Poached Pork Loin won me over with its buttery texture, wilted arugula, thin crostini, and Picual Mayonnaise. Truly a perfect dish.

Spur Gastropub Olive Oil Ice Cream!

Even dessert featured olive oil–the Arbequina variety in Olive Oil Ice Cream with Sponge Cake and Lemon. While you might not think of using olive oil in baking, it can make cakes lighter and more healthy than butter-based versions.

Spanish Albariño and Verdejo wines paired perfectly with these outstanding dishes.

Fonté Perks Along First Avenue

November 26, 2009

We were thrilled when the Four Seasons Seattle announced that Fonté Coffee Roasters would join Fran’s Chocolates in the single remaining retail space fronting First Avenue.

Fonte Interior 1

Although we’d checked out the warm, inviting coffee shop cum cafe by peering into its plate-glass windows and peeking at the menu, we’d never even stopped in for coffee or a glass of wine.

Fonte Interior 2

So we finally remedied that situation one morning when we popped in for Sunday brunch. We were greeted by several fellow diners, along with lots of people who stopped by for take-away coffees.

Fonte Omelet

Here’s my Northwest Garden Omelet with Fresh Vegetables, Cheddar, and Grilled Artisan Bread. I like that the portion was well prepared and filled with a wide array of gently sautéed veggies, just the right size of one person, and cost just $8. And that my grapefruit juice was fresh-squeezed and Spencer’s decaf Americano was rich, round, and robust–not weak and watery as so many of them have been about town lately (even Starbucks).

The recipe was crafted by Chef Jason Wilson of Crush; the wine list by managed by Tysan Dussan, formerly of The Herbfarm, so Fonté’s pedigree is strong.

According to a recent press release, “Fonté’s happy hour menu, served daily from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., offers a wide selection of $3 drink and food selections, including Fonté SangriaSpiced Lamb Burger Sliders, and Mini Pork Sandwiches with Bleu Cheese on Mini Brioche. Sounds like a deal to me.

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