Dish of the Day

November 15, 2009

After a book signing several months ago in downtown Kirkland that lasted until well past 8 p.m., we were starving and so seized the moment to re-try Trellis restaurant, where our old buddy Brian Scheehser (former long-time Hunt Club exec chef) is now happily and successfully ensconced.

Trellis Spicy Harissa Shrimp

Here’s a shot of his Spicy Harissa Shrimp, gorgeous, super-plump and juicy shrimp in a gooey, finger-lickin’-good, devilishly hot (in a good way) sauce with crispy celery and leeks and a “light, spicy summer salad” to cool the burn.

Also helping to sooth ticklish throats was a bottle of one of the best Sauv Blancs we’ve experienced in a long time, 2008 Mount Nelson, from Marlborough, New Zealand.

This Smali Boasts Big Flavors

November 13, 2009

One Sunday evening, after enjoying a viewing of Coco Before Chanel at the venerable Harvard Exit movie theater, we ambled across Broadway to see if we could get into our friend Jerry Traunfeld’s Poppy restaurant. Fortuitously, at the door, we ran into Alan Aquila, former general manager of the since-departed and lamented Yarrow Bay Grill, who led us to a perfect window seat for two.

Poppy Mussels and Crab Rolls

Jerry and his partner, Stephen, were also in the house and we enjoyed catching up with all three men. By this time it was beginning to feel like old-home day, especially when the ever-generous Jerry sent over an order of the restos fabu Dungeness Crab and Herb Summer Rolls. These paired perfectly with the flute of Piper Heidsieck I’d ordered, as did the Lightly Fried Mussels with Basil Aïoli (both the crab rolls and mussels are on the appetizer menu).

Poppy Black Cod Smali

Here’s my Smali, which featured a lovely serving of Black Cod along with Savoy Cabbage and Matsutake mushroom, the rare mushroom that’s a favorite in Japan, and that Jerry told me he often used when he was still chef at The Herbfarm.

Other dishes included a vegetarian Potato-Coriander Soup, Warm Leeks, a gratin of Swiss chard and oregano, burdock pickles with ginger, and naan, the traditional Indian tandoor bread sprinkled with aromatic, anise-y nigella seeds. Jerry told me the Dilled Asian Pear, Celery, and Hazelnut Salad comes straight from his cookbook, The Herbal Kitchen: Cooking with Fragrance and Flavor. This smali was a steal at just $25.

Poppy Beef Smali

For just one dollar more, Spencer went straight for the beef–Grilled Wagyu Denver Steak–to be exact, served with farro (an ancient grain that’s suddenly popping up on every menu about town) and peppers.

His sides included several of the same ones as on my platter, with the substitution of Pumpkin, Fenugreek, and Green-Chile Soup and Roasted Beet, Quince (from Jerry’s neighbor’s farm!), and Huckleberry Salad (a yummy combo of flavors, textures, and colors).

We were too full for a dessert thali, opting instead to finish our bottle of Buty Conner Lee Vineyard 2007 Chardonnay, a not-too-oaky, not-too-fruity, perfectly balanced wine (and great with this type of flavorful and complex food).

Happy Birthday to Tulio Ristorante!

November 10, 2009

We were among the lucky Seattleites to experience executive chef and owner Walter Pisano’s special dinner at Tulio last Friday evening for loyal customers and friends of the restaurant.

Tulio Calamari and Polenta

Among the outstanding dishes on the five-course menu? Calamari with Toasted Garlic, Chili Flake, and Preserved-Lemon Polenta (pictured above); Grilled Escarole and Radish Salad with Bagna-Cauda Vinaigrette (!); Trofie Pasta with Barrel-Aged Feta, Tuscan Pine Nuts, Golden Raisins, and Fresh Oregano; and Swordfish with Taggisca Olives and Blood-Orange and Fennel Salad. Soulful Italian food, each and every dish.

Dessert didn’t disappoint! Chocolate Torte was served at room temperature (more flavor than chilled!) with a a cap of Cinnamon Crème Fraîche.

Walter Pisano Making Mozzarella

Earlier this fall we helped Tulio celebrate its 17th birthday by attending a special mozzarella-stretching and food-cocktail presentation. Here’s a photo of Walter concentrating on making fresh bocconccini–miniature mozzarella balls–which we sampled with a variety of olive oils, sea salts, and Walter’s housemade basil salt. Creamy perfection!

Meanwhile, mixologist Raphael Nicas offered up inspired cocktails such as the Caprese–basil-infused Ketel One Vodka, tomato juice, Bocconccini, baby tomatoes, and Trampetti olive oil, all adorned with a fresh basil leaf.

Spencer and I were taken with the Bakers Witch–Bakers Bourbon, Benedictine, Strega, and a garnish of candied butternut squash. Sweet, yet sassy!

First Oysters of the Season!

November 5, 2009

Last week, we went to OpenTable.com a few days before Halloween, and ordered up a table at the venerable Flying Fish Restaurant in Belltown. We specifically asked for a table at the very front of the restaurant, for what we hoped would be a ring-side seat for the ghouls and goblins out to celebrate All Hallows Eve as they scurried about First Avenue.

While the number of spirits was a bit disappointing, the creativity and work that went into many of the costumes was truly amazing. Themes this year seemed to be an overwhelming number of angels (both black- and white-winged), “super” heroes (such as the Green Hornet and Batman), and the usual vampires and vampiresses.

Flying Fish Oysters on the Half Shell

Inside, I enjoyed my first oysters on the half shells of the season. I swore I’d remember their names, but after sharing a bottle of Sauv Blanc with Spencer, their monikers went right out the window. But here is their photo, captured for posterity.

Flying Fish Sauvignon Blanc

And here’s that bracing bottle of wine, Craggy Range 2008 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. Don’t you just love the name? So evocative, and perfect since the winery’s 100 hectares of vineyards used to be an old quarry.

Flying Fish Oyster Shells

Here’s a photo of the poor oysters after consumption. All that’s left is their ruffly shells.

Flying Fish Fried Oyster Caesar Salad

I still hadn’t gotten my fill of the unctuous bivalves, so ordered chef/owner Christine Keff’s legendary Fried Oyster Caesar Salad. Four spanking fresh, just-shucked oysters perfectly fried in nothing but a light dusting of cornmeal, along with hearts of romaine, and not-too-garlic-y Caesar dressing. Simply the best in town.

Oyster lovers will get a thrill this Saturday evening as Elliott’s Oyster House celebrates its 17th annual Oyster New Year Bash. The Bash, which runs from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., features 30 varieties of local oysters, an oyster luge, fresh seafood buffet, and more than 50 WA wines. Although it’s already sold out, eating oysters at Elliott’s is a good idea any time!

TASTE Offers New Ways to Taste

October 3, 2009

Last month, one of our favorite restaurants started opening for Sunday brunch, Sunday sips, and a Sunday urban supper. TASTE Restaurant at the Seattle Art Museum is now open Wednesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sundays 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. It will now be closed on both Mondays and Tuesdays to coincide with the hours of the Seattle Art Museum.

As always, TASTE’s sustainability mission is to use the best local, seasonal ingredients in soul-satisfying and affordable food.

Cicchetti Kitchen & Bar Update

September 27, 2009

I’m sure I join many other Seattleites in eagerly anticipating the fall 2009 opening of Cicchetti Kitchen & Bar (chi-KET-tee), the Venetian-inpsired snack bar that will adjoin big-sister restaurant Serafina Osteria & Enoteca on Eastlake Avenue East.

According to the Web site, “Cicchetti are the Italian version of the Spanish idea of tapas: small plates of food that can either be eaten as appetizers, or combined (solo or in a group) to form a full-on meal.”

Here’s a link so you can look at updates on Cicchetti’s progress. You can also sign up for e-mail updates.

The Romance of Olivar

September 16, 2009

The Ambience at Olivar\'s

To me, this simple scene of stained-glass window, bottle of Albariño, fresh flowers in a simple vase, and streetscape outside sets the tone at Olivar, a Spanish restaurant located in the historic, and atmospheric, Loveless Building just off Broadway in Capitol Hill.

Green Salad at Olivar\'s

Here’s the Spicy Mixed Greens with Oven-Roasted Tomato, Croutons, and Aged Sherry Vinaigrette, a beautiful symphony of colors, textures, and flavors.

Olivar\'s Beet Salad

And here’s the fresh arugula salad with tender baby beets (in jewel tones of red and yellow), Caña de Oveja (semi-aged goat cheese), and balsamic drizzle.

Olivar\'s Octopus

A daily special of octopus with giant white beans, slender green beans, and a tomato filled with ratatouille didn’t disappoint, either.

Olivar\'s Scallops

But the star dish, among many, was listed as a “small plate” on the menu, although it was plenty enough as an entrée for me: Sea Scallops with Grilled Corn & Artichoke Relish, sauced with spicy, piquant Romesco.

Olivar\'s Lamb

Spencer’s choice–a large plate of Grilled Leg of Lamb with Nectarines, Roasted Garbanzo beans, and Spinach was chewy (in a good way) and flavorful.

That afore-mentioned bottle of Albariño was fruity, yet elegant, with crisp acidity that worked well with the peppery green olive oil and brilliant flavors of all our dishes.

She Makes It Seem Easy Being Green

August 16, 2009

Tilth Exterior

After Maria Hines’ spring-time win as Best Chef of the Pacific Northwest (the mighty mantel bestowed by the James Beard Foundation), not to mention a lovely article about her (written by my friend, colleague, and fellow regular contributor to The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine, Greg Atkinson), we were eager to make a return visit to Tilth, the vibrant green bungalow along 45th Street in the Wallingford neighborhood a few miles from downtown Seattle to see what the talented chef has been up to lately.

Sadly, Maria wasn’t in the house that evening, but her sous chef and staff are keeping things in good order even during her nights away.

It was a cool Sunday evening, so cool that we, along with several other outdoor diners, went back to our car for the emergency wind breakers and pullovers we keep in the trunk for just such an occurrence.

The meal started with yeasty, baby-bottom-soft bread and housemade butter.

Tilth Bread

The Tomato Salad with Arugula and Fresh Figs–a special of the day–was a delightful interplay of colors, textures, and flavors. The pretty purple chive blossoms sprinkled from on high added both visual and gustatory top notes.

Tilth Tomato Salad

Because I’m working on an article on black cod, a.k.a. sablefish, for Pacific Northwest magazine, I was most interested in ordering the Sous Vide Sablefish that came with sea beans, wild watercress, and truffled potato purée. It was a well-crafted dish with a sassy swipe of herb-rich pesto along one side.

Tilth Sablefish

Spencer ordered the large portion of Pan-Roasted Chicken, which partnered with baby red-potato salad, asparagus, and bread jus.

Tilth Chicken

After such soul-satisfying food, along with a bottle of the ever-appealing Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2007 “Arthur” Chardonnay (named for winemaker Veronique Drouhin’s son), the air suddenly didn’t seem nearly as chill as when we first sat down.

In fact, we crossed the street and got in a lengthy line at Molly Moon’s Homemade Ice Cream, a Walllingford institution that (somehow) we’d never enjoyed until that evening. Part of the anticipation at Molly’s is figuring out what intriguing flavor to order. Unfortunately, by the time we got to the front of the line, the Salted Caramel had been 86ed. Lavender Honey was perfume-y and sweet, with a rich depth of flavor, but we both opted for something a little less esoteric–Birthday Cake ice cream (!).

It makes my mouth happy to know that Molly Moon’s has just opened a second location on Capitol Hill. As for my waistline, not so much.

Saturday Lunch at Chinook’s

August 1, 2009

Although those of us who are lucky enough to live in downtown Seattle can quickly enjoy views of Elliott Bay if we hoof it down to the Waterfront, sometimes I get a hankerin’ for views of a working marina along with the freshest seafood.

When that happens, for Saturday lunch, we head over to Fisherman’s Terminal and Chinook’s at Salmon Bay, a member of the Anthony’s Homeport chain of restos. According to the restaurant’s Web site, “Fisherman’s Terminal has been the base of the North Pacific fishing fleet since 1913 with over 700 commercial fishing vessels calling it home.”

Here’s the view you’ll see outside the floor-to-ceiling picture windows from one of many dock-side tables.

Chinook Exterior

The food isn’t bad, either. Meals start out with a basketfull of just-baked foccacia bread redolent with garlic and herbs.

Chinook Chowder

I often opt for a bowl of the Manhattan (tomato-based) clam chowder and a spinach salad. Sometime, perhaps this winter when it is cold and gray outside and no longer bikini season, I’ll split the difference and try a bowl of half New England (cream-based) chowder and half Manhattan. Sounds yummy.

Chinook Trout

Spencer chose the Whole Blackened Idaho Trout served with green beans and roasted potatoes.

Chinook Interior

We always enjoy the exposed ceiling and simple architecture at this bustling restaurant, which really allows the seafood on the plate and water-filled views outside to shine.

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