A post-holiday meal in early January at Cafe Juanita turned up many outstanding dishes. But I was most taken by one intriguing appetizer: Alaskan King Crab with Poco Carretto Green Apple Sorbetto and Crab Butter Powder. Cafe Juanita chef/owner and fellow Seattle Dame, Holly Smith, served the dish at the James Beard Foundation Gala Awards dinner last May, and it’s been a popular item on Cafe Juanita’s menu ever since.

(An aside. Poco Carretto Gelato is Smith’s latest brainchild. The authentic Italian dessert made its debut in June 2008 at the Fremont Farmers Market. Sorbets and gelatos that bear the Poco Carretto name, which translates as “little cart” in Italian, contain only the finest local, organic ingredients.)

Anyway, I’m afraid this romantic, venerable, dimly lit restaurant in Kirkland isn’t the best place to try to take plate shots. And since the picture above doesn’t begin to do justice to the ephemeral dish, I hope to make amends with my words.

Imagine, if you will, a cool scoop of sweet/tart apple sherbet draped with several salty/sweet fingers of king crab. Next comes a generous sprinkle of crab butter powder, the essence of crab. Dive–all-at-once, ice-cream-sundae-like–into the dish’s creamy/soft texture and buttery/briny taste to experience true Pacific Northwest cuisine!

These thoughts from chef Holly (as reprinted from jbfnotes, the James Beard Foundation member newsletter) , “This combination is tried and true. My twist is to make a green-apple sorbetto with as much acidity as I can leave in the apples, and then give it a drizzle of fruity Ligurian olive oil, Maldon salt, and top this with fresh chilled Alaskan king crab and crab butter powder.”

Brian Cartenuto, chef/owner of Cantinetta in Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood, will take his “serious, soulful Italian food” on the road when he appears at the James Beard House on Wednesday, February 10, at 7 p.m.

The chef describes his style as “refined simplicity.” He’s wowed critics, including Providence Cicero, my colleague and the food critic at The Seattle Times. Provi describes his cooking as “assured,” saying it combines “a wonderful balance of flavors with an element of surprise.”

Among the dishes he’ll prepare in the JB House’s small kitchen, so small that it requires chefs to prep most of their dishes off site? Among the appetizers you’ll find Pancetta-Wrapped Dates with 50-Year-Old Balsamic, Arancini (Rice Balls) with Saffron and Ricotta Salata, and Bacalao (Salt Cod) with Tomato-Olive Sugo.

With Pork Cheeks with Turnips and Citrus Gremolata as a main course, a hearty Grilled Treviso salad for balance, and side dishes including Brussels Sprouts with Duck Confit for the table to share, this dinner promises to be a winner.

One of the highlights of the month of January was a tour of KOMO TV’s studios at Fisher Plaza near downtown Seattle. Many of you know the sleek, modern building as the home of Seattle Grace Hospital on the popular Grey’s Anatomy television show. And while we didn’t see McDreamy or any of the other cast members (who haven’t done any filming at KOMO during the past two years, according to our tour guide), we did get up close and personal with KOMO’s super-star anchor Mary Nam and its effervescent weatherman, Steve Pool, during a taping of KOMO 4 News@4PM.

Above is Mary and 425 magazine’s style editor, Alexandra Hedin, chatting before they do a segment on creative ideas for Superbowl parties. Alexandra was just one week away from having a baby, and her husband had begged her to bag the segment, but she went on like a trooper.

And here is Steve (resident gourmet and wine lover) sampling Pizza and Nacho Rolls, an easy Superbowl snack. Complete recipes and tips are on the 425 Web site.

To start the month of  February off right, I’d like to mention a subject near and dear to my heart. . .the upcoming Les Dames, Seattle, fundraiser on Thursday, February 25, 5:30 p.m., at the Women’s University Club in downtown Seattle.

La Dolce Vita: Celebrating the Essence of Italy will feature Cucina (an Italian-inspired antipasti feast and grappa tasting), Cultura (a humor-filled presentation by Italian culture lecturer Anne Robichaud), and Ceramica (a silent auction of more than 400 pieces of handmade Italian ceramics). With so many moving parts and bells and whistles, this promises to be one of the year’s best parties!

Tickets are $95, available online, or call (206) 276-5527 for more information. Profits from the evening benefit the Seattle Dames scholarship and community-outreach programs, which have disbursed more than $275,000 over the past 20 years.

Golden Beet Carpaccio

Varietal: Chardonnay

Serves 4

You either love ‘em or you hate ‘em. Of course, I’m talking about beets. But if you are an aficionado, you’ll especially appreciate this recipe that comes from my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, thanks to chef Maria Hines, owner of Tilth restaurant. Totally organic Tilth is an unpretentious, buttery-yellow space located in a Craftsman-style house in the bustling Wallingford neighborhood of Seattle, a few miles north of downtown. Almost everything on the menu is preceded by the farmers’ or fishers’ names, so you can eat to your heart’s content with a clear conscience. The salad below demonstrates Chef Maria’s style of using simple ingredients to create bold flavors and beautiful plate presentations. The salad can take on a more rustic look if you simply cut the golden beets into one-inch cubes and toss them with the vinaigrette instead of slicing the beets and drizzling the vinaigrette.

Herb Vinaigrette

4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

4 sprigs fresh tarragon

4 sprigs fresh chervil

4 fresh chive stalks

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 medium golden or red beets, scrubbed and tops and root ends trimmed (See Cook’s Hints, below)

5 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup pine nuts, walnuts, or hazelnuts, toasted (See Cook’s Hints, below)

1/2 cup (2 ounces) fresh, soft goat’s-milk cheese (chèvre), crumbled

1. To make the Herb Vinaigrette, mince the parsley, tarragon, chervil, and chives. Transfer to a small mixing bowl and gently stir in the olive oil and vinegar. Set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a small roasting pan with aluminum foil.

3. Add the beets and thyme sprigs to the roasting pan and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Fill the pan with water until the beets are almost completely submerged, cover with aluminum foil, and bake the beets for 1 to 1  1/4 hours, or until they are very tender. To test, insert the tip of a small, sharp knife into the center of one of the beets. Remove the beets from the pan and let cool. When the beets are cool enough to handle, remove the skins.

4. To serve, slice the beets into very thin rounds. Arrange them on 4 small plates in a spiral pattern, overlapping them to form a circle. Drizzle the beets with the vinaigrette, then sprinkle the pine nuts and goat cheese evenly over the beets. If desired, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.

Cook’s Hints: (1) To toast nuts or seeds (sesame, mustard, coriander, pumpkin, or cumin), heat them in a small, dry skillet over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until they begin to turn light brown and/or give off their aroma (mustard seeds begin to pop), shaking the pan back and forth often so the ingredients do not burn. Remove from heat, cool, and add to your recipe, or grind as directed. (2) Chef Maria uses a clean, dry kitchen towel to remove the beet skins by simply wiping them off, a method that also saves your hands from getting stained by beet juice.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley, $34.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

During our recent trip to Cannon Beach, we drove all the way down to Lincoln City, obstensibly to enjoy the inspiring scenery as our car hugged the Oregon coast, but really so I could go to the Tanger Outlets for some after-Christmas bargain-hunting.

After partaking of the hearty breakfast buffet at The Stephanie Inn, we headed southward down Scenic Highway 101, and arrived at our destination several hours later. Something about car trips always makes me hungry, so before we descended upon the outlet stores, we thought it best to fortify ourselves. Frankly, luncheon options in Lincoln City were slim to none, so we chose a modest waterfront restaurant named Mo’s, one of five in the Oregon-based chain.

Mo’s is known far and wide for its award-winning clam chowder. It’s the kind of place dominated by large communal tables, so you often side elbow to elbow with complete strangers. Luckily, we snagged a table for two, although that didn’t keep the couple sitting next to us from asking what we were eating and offering us bites of theirs!

Above is a photo inside Mo’s, with the interiors all decked out (so to speak) for the holidays.

And here’s the healthful salad we each enjoyed. . .Blackened Salmon Caesar. A plump, center-cut king salmon fillet was gently kissed with blackening mix (a not-too-spicy one–good!) and gently grilled until medium-rare. With a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan (calcium-rich!) and Caesar dressing on the side, I was ready to indulge in something healthful after many, many weeks of holiday overindulgence.

Note the merry yellow bucket beside the salad. . .designed for stray shells from the many oysters, clams, and mussels served daily at Mo’s locations up and down the Oregon coast.

After five relaxing days in Cannon Beach over the holidays, we made the gorgeous drive through the Columbia Gorge to stay at the White Salmon Inn in White Salmon, a small town on the Washington side of the Washington/Oregon border. We enjoyed our time in the Gorge, especially Hood River, where we dined at Celilo, 3 Rivers, and Brian’s Pourhouse. We’d recommend all three!

Here’s a photo of town looking down the street from our hotel. Note the threatening skies that held the promise of snow. So much so, that when we heard three to six inches were due, we were forced to cut our trip short by a day so we could get back to Seattle in time for a doctor’s appointment!

Once home, I was thrilled to receive a press release in which I learned that the Columbia Gorge region was named an iconic destination by National Geographic Traveler. According to the release:

“The National Geographic Society’s Center for Sustainable Donations, which recently released its annual scorecard of the world’s most precious places, rated the Columbia River Gorge sixth internationally and second in North America for sustainable destinations in 2009.

“Judged on aspects such as social and cultural integrity, aesthetic appeal, tourism management, environmental quality and outlook for the future, the judges also considered the Columbia River Gorge for its vibrant wine culture:

“[The] burgeoning wine industry is bringing a new kind of cultural and environmental awareness to the area that is certainly going to be a boon for tourism and for the area’s prospects…”

In my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, I devote an entire chapter to the Columbia Gorge American Viticultural Area (AVA). Established in 2004 with only four wineries, the Columbia Gorge AVA is one of several bi-state wine regions on the Oregon/Washington borders. After just five successful years, the Columbia Gorge AVA boasts 20 wineries and is one of the most diverse AVAs in the country, with more than 30 grape varieties.

My book features a yummy Cream of Morel Soup recipe from Maryhill Winery, the AVA’s largest and most impressive and Washington State’s tenth largest winery. It was named the 2009 “Washington Winery of the Year” by Wine Press Northwest magazine and “Best Destination Winery” by Seattle Magazine. Producing 80,000 cases a year, Maryhill celebrates its tenth anniversary this year and also celebrates landing top scores on more than half a dozen of their varietals in recent reviews from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.

Among the winners? Maryhill Winery’s 2006 Cabernet Franc Proprietor’s Reserve (91 points), 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Proprietor’s Reserve (90 points), 2006 Malbec Proprietor’s Reserve (91 points), 2006 Merlot Proprietor’s Reserve (91 points), 2008 Pinot Gris (87 points), 2006 Serendipity (91+ points), and 2006 Syrah Proprietor’s Reserve (92 points).

Cheers and Happy Tenth to Maryhill and congratulations to the entire Columbia Gorge region!

In yesterday’s Pacific Northwest Taste column, I profiled two Willamette Valley, Oregon-based businesses that are giving the Italians a run for their money in the production of truffle oil and balsamic vinegar. I hope you’ll enjoy reading Truffle Troves + Balsamic Barrels.

I must admit, I’m more of a tea drinker than coffee imbiber. My daily tea habit runs the gamut from a healthful green tea/Red Zinger mix during the early morning to bracing black tea with 2% milk the rest of the day.

But a recent informal coffee tasting at Fonté Micro Coffee Roaster on First Avenue, right across from the Seattle Art Museum, set me to thinking about the similarities between wine tasting and coffee cupping. According to Fonté master coffee roaster Steve Smith, body (the way the coffee feels in your mouth), acidity (or liveliness), and aroma (depth) lead to coffee flavor (the overall perception of acidity, aroma, and body). As with wine, the finish (how the coffee tastes after it leaves your mouth) is also a major factor in enjoying and appreciating your cuppa Joe.

Smith demonstrated what he was talking about by tasting me through four different coffees including Bin 16 (Fonté’s signature blend), El Socorro y Anexos (the 2009 Cup of Excellence winner), and Fonté Holiday Blend (described as “a heavily bodied cup with a pleasant ‘wine-y’ brightness).

Thanks to its price tag alone, I was most intrigued by the beautifully named La Esmeralda Geisha, which translates as “the emerald geisha.” Smith said this complex, single-estate, very-limited-production coffee from Panama exhibits prominent acidity along with lovely aromatics including notes of jasmine. Annual production is only 125 bags, and so it sells for $49.95 per half pound!

The coffee is so exclusive, that during the holidays there was a limit of one-half-pound per customer, and sales benefitted the Pike Place Market Foundation. The Market Foundation funds the four social-service agencies in the Pike Place Market: the Downtown Food Bank, Medical Clinic, Senior Center, and Preschool and Child Care. This fundraising effort was and is a perfect example of the neighborhood spirit surrounding Pike Place!

From the moment it started coming out of the ground, the proverbial buzz began to build (so to speak) around the 5th and Madison building (appropriately named since it’s located in downtown Seattle at Fifth Avenue and Madison Street). The new condominium complex, located smack-dab in the center of Seattle’s downtown Financial District and across the street from the Rem Koolhaas-designed downtown Seattle Public Library, is a gorgeous glass monolith with an large outdoor plaza with water features and greenery–a favorite play space for the building’s resident dogs.

About the only thing lacking in the glitzy development was an upscale restaurant. Answering the clarion call came the third location of the “Napa-Valley-inspired” Sip. at the wine bar & restaurant, whose two other locations are in Issaquah and Gig Harbor.

On one of the coldest days of winter so far, a Wednesday in early December, we met friends who actually live at Fifth & Madison for a quick drink and tour of their condo before heading down the elevator and out the door to Sip.

Immediately, we were taken with the restaurant’s dramatic design, from the living-room-like feel of the “Great Room” to the expansive wall of wine to the bold and whimsical wine-related artwork on the walls. Warm, earthy hues and plush leathers dominate; a bustling vibe and interesting blend of people–from downtown office workers to downtown-dwelling empty nesters to 20-somethings out for drinks and apps–adds to an atmosphere of relaxed, adult sophistication. An added bonus? Northwest jazz musicians perform live on Thursday evenings.

According to a press release: “Guests will find a cozy yet stylish ambiance with an impressive wine selection and distinctly flavorful food,” says founder Lane Scelzi. “Many wineries in Napa Valley capture that feeling and that’s what we’ve achieved with Sip., all while adding our own distinct Northwest flavor.”

At the heart of Sip. Seattle sits a huge, granite-topped bar that overlooks both the dining area and the patio. I can’t wait to try Sip during the summer, since  the patio–one of the most expansive outdoor dining spaces in all of downtown–features a fireplace, a lush grassy area, and views of Elliott Bay.

Now. . .enough with the bells and whistles–let’s get down to the food. Here’s the Bibb Salad, a towering mound of whole Bibb lettuce, marinated tomatoes, Nueskie’s smoked bacon, Point Reyes blue cheese, and Dungeness Crab. Sauced with Point Reyes blue cheese dressing, it was so plentiful, I could gladly have eaten this as my main course!

My meat-eating hubby highly recommended the Short Ribs, which the well-written menu describes as, “boneless ribs, parmesan “jo-jos,” arugula salad, meyer lemon, gremolata, parmigiano, and red-wine braising jus.” Discussion around the table centered around exactly what “jo-jos” are. I’ve always thought they were simply flour-coated (so they stay nice and crispy), deep-fried potato wedges that originated on the West Coast. I was introduced to them at the old Deluxe Bar-B-Que in the Pike Place Market, although since that space has morphed into a sushi joint, I haven’t seen them in the take-away case in years.

I was in the mood for Black Cod, a.k.a. Sablefish, a fish I reported on in one of my recent Seattle Times Taste columns. This rendition skewed traditionally Asian, with a red-miso marinade, edamame wasabi “mash,” herb daikon slaw, fried shallots, cilantro oil, and sweet-chili butter. And even though it looked like a bit of a mash-up, the elements flowed as harmoniously as a Japanese fountain.

The female half of our dynamic-dining duo ordered the Jidori Chicken Confit. For those of you who don’t know, Jidori is a trademarked name of a very special type of chicken beloved by chefs in the know. According to the Jidori Web site, their birds “are raised cage-free, fed all-natural grain with no meat by-products, and without any hormones or steroids.” There must be something to their claims, since our friend, a long-time foodie and wine lover, pronounced the dish well prepared and the chicken very tasty. The “cured natural heirloom chicken hind quarter” was served with roasted-garlic mashers, brown-butter-basted Brussels-sprouts salad (the leaves painstakingly separated from their cores like frilly miniature lettuce leaves!), and garlic butter.

Sated and happy, we passed on dessert (as we usually do) in favor of finishing the last dregs of our bottle of Washington-state red wine. But I must admit that the Roasted Sugar Pie Pumpkin Cheesecake and the Hot Buttered Rum Brulée were tempting sweet options.

As you’d expect, Sip’s beverage program is impressive. The restaurant features nearly 70 wines by the glass; more than 250 bottles from the Pacific Northwest, California, and around the globe; a wide range of red, white, rosé wine, and champagne flights; nearly 15 domestic and imported beers; and cocktails made with fresh and natural ingredients.

Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week, happy hour is offered Monday through Friday 4:30 to 6:30.

Cheers to Sip. Seattle, and welcome to the neighborhood!